Holy stuck axle nut batman!

[getnpsi]

shopdiscover offers significant cashback bonus at harbor freight too. its always 5% but some stores pop up to 10-15. Worth taking a peek if you are already online anyway. Their torque wrenches are legit for the casual user too.

[Americanclassicg]

I forgot to mention I used an impact. Mostly because it was worthless. When I used it on the other side, it couldn't break loose the nut, but I got it by hand with no cheater pipe.

I'm sure my impact isn't fully up to snuff, but I can't imagine a cheap HF electric one being any better.

[TominMO]

I use a good quality breaker bar and a four foot long pipe. Have someone sit in the car holding down the brake pedal while you use the "cheater pipe" and breaker bar

I did essentially the same thing in the JY, but jammed a flat screwdriver into the middle of the brake rotor. The caliper kept it from moving. I broke a small 18" breaker bar I had for a long time, using a 3-foot pipe as a cheater. Went and bought a heavy-duty, longer breaker, and with the ppe I was able to get the nut off. But I was standing on the cheater pipe to do so!

[bravekozak]

1" breaker bar

[jason_]

Never understood making axle nuts miserable tight when they're stake-able. Hm? Just enough preload to make taper bearings happy, and a small stake to prevent loosing.

If I have someone to hold the caliper tight, 1/2" does it.

Alone, and wheel in air, 1" air impact, and I never unstake nuts, it'll make them turn.

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[Movin]

The tapered bearings exert strong pressure on the inner races to spin them, things will start to self destruct. The tapered bearings preload is not adjustable, it is determined by the dimensions of the inner race. The minimum nut torque to keep the inner races in place at all foreseeable temperatures is the torque listed in specs.

The torque you are fighting is not actual nut torque but corrosion, rust and other enemies of our cars. Some of these torque enemies can be beat with chemicals and that may be sufficient to break the bond. All of these bonds can be broke by heating the nut to a dull red. It is best to use your biggest torch first that can direct the heat to the nut and not so much the shaft, you do not want to destroy the temper of anything you wish to reuse. In other areas if using heat you have to consider seals you may wish to keep and they can only stand about 300 F before things weaken.

With a one inch gun no torch needed, the nut will heat quickly just from a badazz gun!

[koRnhead]

The HF impact is no joke.....is it as good as a 3/4 air with a big compressor. No, but it will take care of most jobs without the big price tag. And if you burn one up working on something, who cares its only a HF tool, go buy another!

[kellen302]

I had a rough time with the axle nuts on my donor protege (My friends breaker bar was bending with a 4ft cheater pipe on it) but the axle nuts on my festy just came off easy with very little effort. That was a little concerning. I thought that replacing the axle did not require screwing around with our satanic front bearings or am I mistaken?

[scitzz]

Alone, and wheel in air, 1" air impact, and I never unstake nuts, it'll make them turn.

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

I bet! My 1/2 inch earthquake from HF hasn't failed yet to do the same.

As an aside, I have a new cheater bad as of today. About 3 foot or so I cut out of an axle of a mobile home. Named it Overkill

Get a decent breaker bar, and add a few feet of cheater pipe to it, like a fence post, set the car on the ground, and have an assistant hold the brake. Make sure it is unstaked.