Water Pump, Timing Belt, Valve adjustment 88 Carby

[Jblair]

Hey Festiva people,
So, Water pump is leaking and I just ordered pump and timing belt, they will be in tomorrow and I will start this weekend. Any tips that may be helpful or anything else I should do while I'm this deep? . . . Also sounds like valve is out of adjustment, not sure valve system on my 88 Carby. What am I looking at when I get in the valve cover? Do you know the tolerances for the gaps? I've done adjustment to other cars, don't have a Haines or Chiltons for the car. Thanks my festiva people, yall are always helpful
Portland OR

[FestYboy]

cam seal while you're in there. if the engine sounds like a sewing machine, it's good, but if there's one that's deffinitely out, that needs addressed.

[Zanzer]

Lash is .012" per Chilton's

Set #1 piston to TDC of compression stroke, adjust #1 and #2 intake valves, adjust #1 and #3 exhaust valves. Rotate engine 360 degrees so piston #4 is a TDC of compression stroke, adjust remaining valves.

[Festy46]

The timing belt has a tensioner pulley with a slot. Loosen the bolt that holds the pulley and pry it as far away from the belt as it will go and re-tighten the bolt. That will give you the slack in the belt to get it off. There are marks on the cam gear. Rotate the engine before you take off the timing belt so the marks are at 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock and lined up with the marks on the head. The marks on the head aren't really marks, but more like little raised bumps in the casting. You'll know them when you see them. Don't rotate the engine while the timing belt is off. If you happen to move the cam while the belt is off, rotate it back to the "12 and 3" position before you put the belt back on. Check the timing belt tensioner pulley to be sure it spins freely. If it doesn't, you will need to replace it. Once you have the new belt on, loosen the tensioner bolt and let the tensioner spring pull the tensioner in against the pulley (make sure the tensioner spring isn't unhooked or broken). Leave the tensioner bolt loose and take a wrench and rotate the engine in it's normal rotation direction for 2 complete rotations by using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley. Make SURE the engine compression does not push the crankshaft backwards when you stop turning it. It may be a good idea to take out the spark plugs to remove the compression pressure. Tighten the tensioner bolt and you are good to go.

As far as the mechanical lifters, if you've done them before, the Festiva's look like any other mechanical lifters with a screw and a lock nut.

[Zanzer]

^^ :thumbup:


This may help with the timing marks:

[Jblair]

Thank you for the tips. . . Since you have to pull the belt to change the pump I know its a good idea to replace it. This old beast only has 119K but the sitting around did it no good. . . As far as my valves go, I haven't isolated the issue yet but one of them is clacking.

[WmWatt]

My clacking valve is a worn valve guide. Compression test good. Passes emissions test. Not to worry.

[Jblair]

I really appreciate your knowledge guys. I just tracked down an old festyboy post that gave me good info about the crack pulley situation. I almost pulled the 22mm bolt instead of the 4 10mm and the 2 phillips. It sucks that you have to pull the pulley. Why don't they just make the clearance a 1/4 more and it would slip out?

[Jblair]

I wish that you had a visual of the pump contact to the block at the gasket. I've got everything seated but there is not a clear sight to be sure all of the gasket is seated and the only way to know is to finish assembly. This water pump has not been fun. I'm about 3hrs into the repair and I've just got the pump in. Now I've got to finish with the belt and the pulleys.