K&N air filter?

[rmoltis]

Yeah I would.
They are only like $30
And if anything it will save you the cost of constantly replacing your air filter.
And mpgs won't change much if you keep your foot out of it.
It should only decrease if your constantly at wide open throttle.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=330985192676&siteId=0&isClassified=false

[sactnato]

The guy (Joe) I bought my BP Festiva from in Long Island has a K&N filter for $20 on CL. He is a member on here (71Montego I think) but it's probably easier to just reply to his CL ad if your interested. If you do, tell him Richard from Virginia Beach sent you his way.

http://longisland.craigslist.org/pts/3981005194.html

[mikeyjd]

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?49993-K-amp-N-air-filter-vs-OEMs-(tech-data)

[rmoltis]

Yeah that article has been around for a long time now.

Just remember our airboxes aren't bombarded with air saturated as heavily with dust and dirt particles %100 of the time
As the test does.

Nor do our engines draw air in at 350cfm constantly as the test does.
I'm not even sure at redline we draw in more that 250cfm at %85 v.e.


I do not disagree with the data provided.

I'm sure my k&n let's more dirt in than the stock filters do.

But even after reading the data I still buy my k&n filters.

Because all of my cars still last over the 250,000+ mile range.

And when my airbox cover is removed it is always spotless and free of dust, dirt, and oil above the filter element on the engine side.

Not to mention the secondary filtration of the oil by the oil filter.
That helps keep it within range of useable oil.

and coupled with regular 3000 mile oil changes
I do not see much harm in a %3.13 drop in filter efficiency.


A lot of people tend to set aside their own experience.
And what they see with their own eyes.
And don't verify information on their own application.

I've learned over the years theory and controlled studies don't always fall
In line with the actual application.

For example mythbuster did some test on whether drafting behind vehicles saved gas mileage and came to the conclusion that it was only effective at around 3ft from the next vehicle.

But on my 2500 mile road trip to Miami and back from Pittsburgh.
I noticed that the closer I got to the car in front of me the more my engine load would drop on the scanguage.

And this was at 75mph which was 5 mph over the posted limit.

And it started decreasing at 3-4 car length behind the vehicle.

I could effectively reduce my engine load needed to maintain 75 by up to %10 from 3-4 car lengths back
And up to %20 at 1-2 car length back.

Which proves to me that it is quite effective from experience.
Yet people I talk to about it just cite myth busters
and claim it is just a myth and doesn't work.

If you were worried about higher engine contaminate levels.
You could do a test with both filters with 3 oil change intervals each.
Starting with
2500/3000/5000

You can now send in these samples to a few labs that test the oil $25
They test:

Spectral Exam: Establishes the levels of wear metals, silicon, and additives present in the oil. Also checks for coolant.

Viscosity: Determines the grade of oil.

Insolubles: Quantifies the percentage of solids present in the oil (dirt)

Flashpoint: The flashpoint is the temperature at which the vapors from the oil ignite. When the flash is lower than it should be, it shows a contaminant (usually fuel) is present.

This would be best way to guage for yourself how effective your air filter is.
By comparing say a 3000mi oil change with the k&n
And a seperate 3000mi with the stock filter.

And doing a side by side comparison.

The solid particle levels would give you a strong indication as to whether the filtering efficiency would fall into useable range or not.

Keep in mind I'm not bashing anyone's ideas or saying this is wrong.
I just rather rely on my own information rather than just believing
What other people say is and isn't.

But the information does serve to be a good guide as to what to look for
In the application at hand.

[rmoltis]

And on the other part of the subject.

All my claims on the drop in filter were from the scanguage II.

I agree that k&n filters don't increase airflow.
But our cars are designed for %85 ve
And that is the level that my scanguage reads with the drop in k&n

And the stock filter still gives me around %75 engine loading.
So I disagree that stock filters give you maximum airflow required
Cause they don't.
Seeing as the %85 engine loading they are designed to attain aren't reached with them.


So it increases airflow only in the respect that it doesn't cause extra resistance to the air coming in.
Which I've repeated in most of my posts.

I also agree that with most cone filters are unnecessary in the respect our engines don't need that much airflow.


But I've learned to rely on my verified data versus information regurgitated and cited by others.
Cause it never matches.

I wish this "test" had verifiable links to the sources of its data.

And if anyone wants to buy my old aspire airbox with a hole bored in it.
So they can test for themselves without destroying their stock box.
If the bigger hole helps with power and mpgs be my guest.

But I lost substantial power in the 1500-3500 range by doing so.
And would reccomend against it.

As well as the new stock filter I have lying around
makes anything over 3000 rpms seem restricted.

[bravekozak]

After reading this thread, I have decided to install a K&N air filter in my Festiva. Unfortunately, K&N does not make an air filter for a twin carb E5.
So I took an old used Ryco air filter and sent it to the ER in my basement. The operating table is beside the furnace where it is nice and warm. I began by taking a knife and slicing out the paper element all the way around. Next, I used a sharp chisel to scrape out the remaining silicone. Next, I used a 5" wire wheel to clean up any remaining residue along the inside seam. I still have to use a 1" wire wheel to clean up the outside seam. I still have to use a 1" wire wheel to clean up the outside seam. I also have to buy an E-3515 filter, cut it down to fit and set it in place with some new liquid silicone. I will post again after this is completed.

[william]

Looks good wants the plan for adding filter material back in?
are you planning on slicing up a reusable filter and gluing it in?

[bravekozak]

Sorry for the delay. Yes, I am planning on adding the material back in.
Today, I found my old 14 inch K and N air filter that I used to have in my Jeep CJ-7.
I installed my cut off disc in my table saw and sawed through the middle of it.
I stopped and realized that I didn't need to saw all the way through.
I lowered the blade and only cut until I could see a few sparks from the inner mesh cage.
There was more than enough filter for the Ryco.
I pulled off the aluminum crimp joiner and cut the filter to length.
Now I will wash the filter, re-install the clip and buy some liquid plastic.

[bravekozak]

Today, I found my old 14 inch K and N air filter that I used to have in my Jeep CJ-7.
I installed my cut off disc in my table saw and sawed through the middle of it.
I stopped and realized that I didn't need to saw all the way through.
I lowered the blade and only cut until I could see a few sparks from the inner mesh cage.
There was more than enough filter for the Ryco.
I pulled off the aluminum crimp joiner and cut the filter to length.
Now I will wash the filter, re-install the clip and buy some liquid plastic.

[bravekozak]

I had to cut more off the filter. The K and N pleats are smaller than the original paper pleats.
The filter element has to rest against the metal cage.
It is a very simple procedure to spread and then crimp the filter ends together.
My local speed shop has the cleaning kit in stock.
I got two filters out of my old 4 X 14 filter.
I will only oil the filter after the plastic has completely set.

I am going to take the metal cage to my favorite powder coater for the next time he runs a bright, sexy color for another customer.
I cannot leave it bare metal, as I will be washing the entire assembly again in the future.

[bravekozak]

I bought a can of sexy yellow plasti-dip. Lessons learned. I underfilled the first side because I thought it would overflow when I shoved the filter element into it. It sucked up the plasti-dip instead.
It looked like swiss cheese all the way around. Second mistake was not thinning out the second pour with naptha according to the instructions. Anyway, here is what it looks like before the third touch up pour.

[bravekozak]

I oiled and installed the K&N filter in my Festiva. There is plenty of surface area to breathe.
I have decided to operate again on another Ryco twin carb air filter.
Two quick continuous cuts on a table saw to start.
Followed by a Rockwell SoniCrafter.
I am ready for the wire wheel in less than half the time it took me previously.