Replace oil pump or not

[logan]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding should I replace the oil pump or not?

[Team Lightning]

Personally, If I was rebuilding a motor, Yes I would replace the oil pump.
After all, it's already torn down. Might save having to tear it down again if the old pump should quit.

[logan]

I wa thinking about just replacing it for peace of mind. But wasn't sure what others thought.

[Festevil3]

replace or rebuild it

[sketchman]

I remember someone posting that every B3 oil pump they've ever torn apart and checked the clearances on checked out and got put back to use. I'd leave it alone. If anything, take it apart, clean it good, and put it back.

[zoom zoom]

No...I wouldnt. They never really wear out, I've never heard of a b3 blowing up because the oil pump went bad. Maybe, MAYBE, at the most, take it apart, clean it, and prime it for your first start up....but I doubt you'll even catch me doing that again.

[Zanzer]

I remember someone posting that every B3 oil pump they've ever torn apart and checked the clearances on checked out and got put back to use. I'd leave it alone. If anything, take it apart, clean it good, and put it back.

That was most likely me



Logan, there is a spec for rotor and housing clearance in the manual and the pumps are easy to tear down and check. 99% of the B engines I've rebuilt have been to the very small side of the spec and show little to almost no wear. There were a couple of exceptions for engines that were obviously ran dry of oil (got some great pics of carnage if interested) or just plain lack of maintenance.

Here's a pic of me inspecting one for a B6:

[jason_]

If it looks like it's been pumping oil and not no nos, use it.

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[logan]

Is the dipstick tube included with a new pump? I tried to remove the cover to check clearance but looked like someone had rounded a screw off before me, so I might just replace it since I can't check the insides.

[jason_]

My cover screws were stripped and tight as well. I used a hammer driver. Twist, and whack with a hammer, and the down pressure keeps it from slipping, and down force helps it transfer torque into a twist. Great tool for the mechanic.

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[Zanzer]

Ya, the cover is the hard part of the pump. The hammer impact driver works well, especially for really stubborn ones and ones that have been previously buggered up. I've had to break it out a couple of times for a few pumps. I usually use a large Phillips screwdriver that has a hex cast into the end at the base of the handle that I can put a 7/16" boxed end wrench on. I place the pump in the vice and sort of "lean into it" to apply down force on the screwdriver while using the wrench for leverage and to turn it. Works well and keeps you from stripping the screw heads.

[logan]

One is already stripped so I don't know weather to replace it since I can't really "check" it

[Zanzer]

You could drill it out, left hand bits work well for that. I'm going to say based on my previous experiences with these pumps that you should be fine with the used pump. How did the old bearing surfaces look? Was the inside of the engine fairly clean when you tore it down? If the engine looked fairly clean and well maintained and the bearing surfaces didn't show excessive wear or look like any big particles had ran through them and gouged them out then the pump should be fine. The pumps in these motors sees oil first and is typically the part that wears last. You can look at other areas of the engine to get an idea of maintenance history.

[logan]

The bearings looked fine and the machine shop said they looked great so I think ill just use it.

[logan]

How do I go about priming the old pump when I put it back in?