Quick dumb question! Carb removal.

[Spike]

Reading the FSM I have everything needed to remove carb removed, all (4) bolts, vacuum lines, throttle cable, electrical connectors.

THE CARB WILL NOT COME OFF. I'm worried about getting a flathead screwdriver in there (plus a rather large hammer), as it might?? damage the carb manifold??

Any quick hints would be great!!

I'm fighting the sun as we speak. :p

-Joe

[FestYboy]

deadblow hammer, do not use a wedge, the base plate and mounting surface can easily be damaged. you can also soften the base gasket with PB or WD or similar

[Spike]

I'll try whatever! Lesse if I can find my old deadblow.. it's around here somewhere. >_<

Thanks FestYloveliness.

[denguy]

It's been on there a long time.
Try tapping a knife blade edge in between there for a wedge.

[1chrisapple]

Just cut it off.break it.tear it up then scrap the carb.get escort or weber carb

[Spike]

^I'm installing Weber. Or technically installed. Just finishing the final things before attempting to start.

Oh yeah baby.

Thanks, btw. Ended up using a wedge, but in a different way. Used the back half of a construction hammer, wedged in under the carb between the firewall. Hit the handle of the hammer with another hammer. One good whack and off it went LOL.

[FestYboy]

woot!

[Spike]

ALRIGHT. She starts right up, first turn. Now I've got a few questions..

3k RPM vacuum leak. I found the leak, it is on the carb manifold itself, where the gasket and carb adapter go together. I've gotten this as tight as my hands can get, and it still leaks. Spray carb cleaner along it and it drops to 700ish RPM.

Can I use ATV sealant along the outside of the adapter? I know that's kinda redneck, but I really don't want to take it back apart! >_<

The back bowl vent tube.. what does that vent to? I don't see where it runs to exactly.. I left the carbon canister and stuffz hooked up, though.

[FestYboy]

yes, but you have to let it cure completely before the next start-up.

[Spike]

Will do, cap'n! Thanks!

[Spike]

Alright. Have not put he RTV on yet.

I realized two of the bolts still had about 1/2 turn they could do, and put my weight into it.

Now: Start up, revs to 3.5k. Barely touch pedal, higher RPM. Will die if you don't press pedal a bit.

The choke isn't hooked up yet, but everything I believe needed is hooked up. If you don't constantly give it gas, it will die. I think still has vacuum leak, so I will fix that..

Is there anything else I need to look for? I'd like to have this car running tomorrow if possible, so anything at all I might do tonight while the RTV sets. I will a picture (taken with flash, it's pretty dark now) of how it's set up so you can see if I did it halfway right..

[FestYboy]

you need a strong vac signal to use the idle jets, the reason it runs only at higher rpm is the volume of air across the venturies creates enough draw to fuel the engine.

if you make it to madness i can give an informal clinic.

[Spike]

'89LX Weber Install 001.jpg'89LX Weber Install 002.jpg'89LX Weber Install 003.jpg'89LX Weber Install 004.jpg

[Spike]

I hope those worked. My brain is a bit fried tonight.

Also; I'm in-between jobs right now (ahem - unemployed without benefits..), so 800 miles might be a bit far right now. >_< We decided on the Weber before I lost my job, so we went ahead with it.

Although if I don't have a job by then.. who knows, we might just do it LOL.

[Spike]

I've also uploaded to photobucket:

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Spike-Festiva/media/Festivaaaaaaaaa/89LXWeberInstall005_zpsd0ddbe2d.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0