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engine and trans removal.

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  • engine and trans removal.

    Do the rear xmember mounts need to come out for the engine/trans combo to come out?

    I have an auto if that matters.
    I've tried doing just the engine, the crank pully won't let me get the last 3-4 inches.

    And where are the other battery tray bolts?
    Fast....Women are fast
    Quick...Nestle is quick

    I Speak French....in German! lol.

  • #2
    There is one battery tray bolt under the tray and I believe 2 in the tray itself. On the trans, I would take the bolts out of the mount where it bolts to the trans. Last time I had trouble with clearance when leaving the mount on the trans and had to take it off.
    Last edited by Team Lightning; 08-29-2013, 09:26 PM.
    Jerry
    Team Lightning



    Owner of Team Lightning
    90 L "Peewee" B6D. Bought new May 16,1990
    92 L Thunder BP G5M-R Turbo B6T electronics. Jan 2016 FOTM winner SOLD
    93 L Lightning. BP



    Not a user of drugs or alcohol, Just addicted to Festiva's

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    • #3
      Are you talking about the two bolts on the lower front mount? I took those out.
      I'm talking about the two at the back of the engine.
      Fast....Women are fast
      Quick...Nestle is quick

      I Speak French....in German! lol.

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      • #4
        I'm talking about the mount in the back. There are 2 bolts on that go thru the mount and the trans. They are kinda vertical. Then you have the 2 bolts (studs) that go thru the cross member from the mount.
        Jerry
        Team Lightning



        Owner of Team Lightning
        90 L "Peewee" B6D. Bought new May 16,1990
        92 L Thunder BP G5M-R Turbo B6T electronics. Jan 2016 FOTM winner SOLD
        93 L Lightning. BP



        Not a user of drugs or alcohol, Just addicted to Festiva's

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        • #5
          Are you pulling it out from the top? I would imagine so...

          The rear engine mount on the bottom of the transaxle has a bolt that goes through the crossmember at an angle. You might be able to get it out by muscling the entire assembly sort of forward while lifting up. Probably easiest to remove the whole thing though.
          Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
          Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
          "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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          • #6
            isn't it easier to just remove the pulley them take engine out

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            • #7
              It helps.

              It's still a little faster to just remove the engine and trans together. Especially when you got to drop everything back in.
              Last edited by Zanzer; 08-30-2013, 05:52 AM.
              If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem




              WWZD
              Zulu Ministries

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              • #8
                I would have done that, remove pulley, but I can't get my big asked harbor freight impact gun down in the bay enough.

                Gonna go try to remove the bottom mount now.
                Fast....Women are fast
                Quick...Nestle is quick

                I Speak French....in German! lol.

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                • #9
                  You need to lower the engine first to get the impact on the crank pulley. .

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                  • #10
                    Wh... you don't need to remove the crank pulley iirc. Drain the oil, coolant, and transmission. Unhook all the hoses and the wiring harness. Don't forget the heater hose that's hard to see under the intake manifold. Pull out the VAF, intake tubing, battery tray, and radiator. Disconnect the speedometer cable and throttle cable.

                    Jack the car up and set it on stands. Pop out the ball joint on lower control arm from the hub and pull the axles (everybody has their own favorite way).

                    Hook up your engine hoist, greatly favoring the trans side to balance it. Disconnect the engine mount from the pass shock tower, unbolt the mounts to the transmission from the transmission, not the cross member. They get in the way if you leave them on.

                    Triple check to make sure everything is unhooked and clear, then pull it out
                    -Zack
                    Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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