Aspire EGR valve & "map boost sensor" help needed

[Miah]

On my 96 Aspire I have an extra switch near the brake booster on the firewall. After much searching thru the FA forums I saw a post that ID it as a MAP sensor...except it was pointed out these cars don't run a MAP sensor. It's part number JEA7-18-211

Anyways it appears that the line is supposed to run down to a lower port on the EGR valve, except my EGR valve doesn't have the lower port. Looking up the part number brings up various pics of EGR valves, some with the port & some without. I recalled the PO saying that they replaced the engine at one point with a Festiva motor & it wouldn't surprise me if they mixed/matched parts & I ended up with non original EGR.


So..what should I do with this vacuum line & sensor? Unplug & remove both the sensor & line? Just cap the line? Leave it open?

[Pu241]

Pics of the offending parts would be useful.

Also do you have the engine ID number?
This might help determine if it is a Festy or Aspire motor.

A quick check under the valve cover to see if you have a roller rocker set would at least tell you if the head was Aspire or not.

[zoom zoom]

If you have an egr valve at all you have an aspire intake manifold, and it doesn't matter if its a Festy or aspire block/head.. now wether that egr valve is original to the aspire or not is questionable. You don't really need it (egr vaLve) but I'm not sure if the egr solenoid circuit plays a role in open and closed loop or not.


Pics will help a lot I've got a 97 to use as a reference.

[Miah]

Man, thought I had notifications enabled for replies. Have to keep closer watch on this thread until I get it figured out properly.

Zoom zoom: Most the info I've gotten about the EGR Valve & that switch has been from BigBoi's thread on FA.com. You were involved in that one extensively so I bow before your sage-like wisdom in this matter. I did just notice one thing, my vacuum lines on the switches on the right don't match the pics from that thread....could someone have screwed them up when doing engine swap? or could it be an yr difference? Can we compare lines?



EGR valve. You can see the casting indent for a vacuum nipple, obviously there isn't one. On a side note: What's the brown electrical plug & does it need to be doing something?



Switches on firewall. One on left is the one unhooked

[zoom zoom]

The one on the left goes to the bottom port on the egr valve, which you obviously don't have!!

My 97 has the bottom port, I have seen that egr somewhere and I can't remember what car it was on for the life of me.. I want to say it's for a na bp?

The orange striped vacuum line runs over to the lowest line on the back of the manifold, then on the other side it plugs into the top port of the EGR vavle.

I'm sorry I'm not much help here, I don't even have a haynes manual to look at(misplaced it again.)

I do know that brown plug doesn't get used for a b3, it's for the vics solenoid on a BP motor, which we don't have.

[Miah]

When looking up the part number for the EGR valve online I ran across various places selling it W/ & W/O the bottom port. Don't know if they were meant to be interchangeable or if folk are just selling them that way which caused the PO to get it wrong(or he just didn't care). either way which is the best way to deal with it? remove switch completely, cap the vacuum line, or leave it open & tucked out of the way?


My Black/blue line & the short vacuum line are routed the same as BigBoi had (see below, 4th pic) & supposedly that's wrong according to him & the two lines should be reversed on the upper solenoid. Can I get verification on that?

http://aspire.b1.jcink.com/index.php...ensor%22&st=15

[zoom zoom]

I would probably run that to any open port you might have and try it like that. Keep the other two sensors hooked up like they should be. Honestly I'm not familiar enough with the port routing in the head or the operation of exhaust gas recirculation to give you any good advice. If you had the time and tools I don't see what it would hurt to go ahead and take off the egr valve and drill a hole where its supposed to be and hook it up right, but at the same time you could try to bypass the whole mess by unhooking the top vacuum line, it is the one that let's the egr valve open.

Is the car giving you problems or are you just wanting to get it figured out and make it right?

[Miah]

I do have an engine light on, since car has other issues I haven't taken it over to be read/cleared. Figure it's a never a bad idea to verify/fix what's obvious before getting it scanned & I'd like it to be as right as possible to maximize fuel economy before putting it into service.