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Replace or repack wheel bearings?

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  • Replace or repack wheel bearings?

    How do I know if I need to replace the wheel bearings vs just a repack? I've had grinding noise on my rear wheels and pulled out the old bearings today and found grit in one of the wheels (it felt like sand in the grease). The bearings seem to spin freely in my palm...so how do I know if they need to be completely replaced?

    Also...can I reuse those stake nuts?
    1991 Festiva GL

  • #2
    I'd get new bearings. Even the cheap ones, properly packed, will be fine. You can sometimes re-use the stake nuts, esp. if you can stake them in another location.
    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
    09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

    You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

    Disaster preparedness

    Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

    Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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    • #3
      mine don't stake they both use cotter pins or at least the rear does

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      • #4
        If your rear wheel bearings are making noise, replace them.
        Festiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
        ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

        '90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap. :-D
        '81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
        '95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.

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        • #5
          For what bearings cost and the fact that you've got the arse end of the car off the ground and taken apart (and you did admit to having had trouble with the bearings) just bite the bullet and re-do them. Bearing surfaces should be metallic colour and shiny smooth but I too have been fooled many times before in thinking another coat of grease would buy some time and save some money. How you get the old races out is not critical but pressing or tapping the new ones in requires extra care. Oftentimes aftermarket brake drums don't have a convenient groove between the inners and outers so as to be able to drive the races out with a cold chisel or drift. Having dealt with this a few times before I now grind slots in the drum dividers (if they aren't already there) whenever I install new drums.
          Good luck!
          Stake nuts. I hate them. If you can find a dead Aspire or late model (93) Festy (or this might even apply to an early Rio) their rear hubs are secured by a castle nut and cotter pin. Much nicer system and easy to retrofit; 1/8 inch drill bit goes through the axle stub a lot faster than you'd think, even with a hand held cordless drill.
          Last edited by Bert; 09-23-2013, 07:16 PM.

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          • #6
            that explains y I don't have stake nuts both mine are aspire swapped

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Bert View Post
              Stake nuts. I hate them. If you can find a dead Aspire or late model (93) Festy (or this might even apply to an early Rio) their rear hubs are secured by a castle nut and cotter pin. Much nicer system and easy to retrofit; 1/8 inch drill bit goes through the axle stub a lot faster than you'd think, even with a hand held cordless drill.
              Tell me more about swapping Aspire axel nuts. I have plenty of junk yards around me - what do I have to do to put the aspire nut on my festiva? I hate the stake nuts too...

              And I know bearings are relatively inexpensive - but I picked up my festy for only $900 and it needs basically a complete overhaul. Trying to save where I can
              Last edited by Jesse; 09-23-2013, 07:27 PM.
              1991 Festiva GL

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              • #8
                I just tallied up a total for complete rear brakes (shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, Timken wheel bearings + seals, stake nuts), and new front calipers (rotors/pads free from AutoZone).

                It was $149 shipped from Rockauto. Figure +$30 for rotors and pads.

                But worst case scenario, $21 for both sides wheel bearings on Rockauto + shipping. That's two sets of inner/outer Timkens bearings, 2 Timken wheel seals. That's about 30% of my local AutoZone's price, and it pays for itself in fuel savings over time.

                If you have a spare $30, just get 'em! :p
                White '92 GL 5-speed BP, G series, Aspire/Rio swapped, "Nancy"
                White '89 LX 5-speed, Aspire swapped, Weber carb
                1988 LX 5-speed
                ​​​1993 L 5-speed B8, E series, Aspire/Rio swapped

                Gone:

                1986 Chevrolet Sprint 1990 L Plus Auto

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                • #9
                  I called my AutoZone - I'm picking them up this Wed. I had $20 in credit so its all good
                  1991 Festiva GL

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                  • #10
                    idk if u can swap just the aspire nut.the aspire swap usually consist of the whole rear axle b/c u get bigger brakes and a sway bar built into it and the all famous 4x100 bolt pattern and 13" wheels

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                    • #11
                      93 Festys and all Aspires came with the castle nut and cotter pin; far superior. You can drill the Festy spindle for the cotter pin, and then use the Aspire parts. Or of course do the Aspire swap, which will give you much better brakes and easy-to-change rotors in front.
                      Last edited by TominMO; 09-23-2013, 08:13 PM.
                      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                      09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                      You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                      Disaster preparedness

                      Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                      Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        lol I don't care about any of that - I'll just pick up few nuts next time I'm at the JY and see if it fits
                        1991 Festiva GL

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                          93 Festys and all Aspires came with the castle nut and cotter pin; far superior. You can drill the Festy spindle for the cotter pin, and then use the Aspire parts. Or of course do the Aspire swap, which will give you much better brakes and easy-to-change rotors in front.
                          Perfect; thanks!
                          1991 Festiva GL

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                          • #14
                            Photos of rear bearing replacement here...http://www.photobucket.com/Festiva-backwheel
                            Last edited by WmWatt; 09-23-2013, 09:40 PM.
                            Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                            • #15
                              I know this sounds unsafe. But I have been running with used staked nuts (Which have been removed, and reinstalled.)

                              Driving about 10k miles like this, and they haven't moved at all.
                              1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                              2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                              1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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