Bleed order

[Jesse]

What is the correct bleeding order for the festy?

[1chrisapple]

I always go right rear,left rear,right front,left front on anything I bleed correct way idk but it get the air out of the furthest lines first

[scitzz]

Twenty something years ago, I was taught to bleed from closest to furthest, and everybody tells me I am crazy, but it hasn't failed me on a couple thousand brake jobs. I start by the master cylinder, Front left, front right, rear left, rear right. I have done it in the reverse order, and it worked too, but I start closest out of habit.

[1chrisapple]

haha its all the same to me so long as they get bleed till theres no air in the lines

[Zanzer]

Bleed farthest from MC to closest - RR, LR, RF, LF. The longer the line the more possibility of having trapped air.

A trick I use since I'm usually bleeding them alone is to drill a hole in the cap of a 20oz drink bottle and insert a piece clear PVC tube that will allow you to see the fluid as it passes through it. Prepare 4 bottles like this, attach them to the bleeder screws, and then open the bleeders. You don't have to pump the brake pedal to bleed a brake system and I've actually had better success with gravity bleeding the Festiva system using this method. Usually once you get new clean fluid going into the bottle you should have the air bled out. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder, if you bleed it dry you have to start over : |

I also use this method to change my brake fluid every 2 years or so.

[TominMO]

Farthest to closest FTW. Also, it's a lot easier of you get some speed bleeders: www.speedbleeder.com
They have a check valve in them that lets fluid out, but stops air from getting back in. The part # for Festys and many other cars is SB8100.

Last time I changed out rear wheel cylinders, I filled the cylinder with brake fluid first, then installed it, attached the brake line, and it only took one pump to get the air out, with the speedbleeder! And they make it possible to easily do the job alone as well.

[Zanzer]

I've been looking at the Speedbleeders for a while now But seems I've always got drink bottles and PVC tube in the shop LOL


I'd love to have a set of the stainless ones on my next build....but $60 for a set :nightmare:

[Jesse]

My festy is the epitome of economy. Speedbleeders are out of the question :laughing5:

[Zanzer]

It's only $28 for the steel ones and since you're in FL you shouldn't have to worry too much about them rusting


I just have an affinity for stainless steel...you should see my new exhaust system :mrgreen:

[scitzz]

Bleed farthest from MC to closest - RR, LR, RF, LF. The longer the line the more possibility of having trapped air.

If all you are interested in is getting the air out and being done, sure, but if you do a brake job, and do it "right," you suck all the fluid from the res, refill with clean, and bleed until you have new through the entire line, to avoid accumulated moisture. Closest to furthest facilitates this, right?

Also, it matters what you have been doing that makes them need to be bled. If I just got done doing rear shoes, or a wheel cylinder, I could probably get away with just bleeding the rears. I might do this on my own car if I know the age of the fluid in the lines, but for someone elses car, especially a paying customer, I do all the lines.

I have had a lot of luck with gravity bleeding some of those cars that came from "an undisclosed location" as well, works like a charm with a lot less hassle, but consumes some time!

Of course, speed bleeders should come installed from the factory on every car

[Zanzer]

^^ You have no cred with me since you ran around forever with NO rear brakes LOL :p :mrgreen:


Closest to fArthest doesn't facilitate the removal of moisture. Removing the brake old brake fluid does

If you were using a DOT 5 silicon based fluid then maybe. But it still wouldn't matter then because the water would be puddled instead of mixed with the fluid and you'd still get it when dumping the old fluid.