I've replaced the inner and outer tie rods and the outside bushings in the housing seem okay.
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is there any adjustment to the rack and pinion itself to take out slop?
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is there any adjustment to the rack and pinion itself to take out slop?
1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DDTags: None
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There is some adjustment where the pinion engages the rack. The large locknut (30mm?) can be loosened and then the center part (10 or 12mm) can be tightened a little. This pushes on a small die spring that pushes on a bronze bushing keeping the rack snug against the pinion. You don't want to crank on it hard - just snug it slightly to take up wear in the bronze.
However, if you have play in the suspension this probably won't help. That's mostly for "slop" in the steering wheel... your rack most likely needs new bushings. PM me if you need a rebuilt rack, I have one more on the shelf.~Nate
the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.
Current cars:
91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k
FOTY 2008 winner!
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I checked the bushings on the outer ends of the housing and they look nothing like pics you've posted before. I didn't feel any slop in them when wiggling, its an in & out movement. Which is why I thought of play between the r&p1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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Last edited by Larry Hampton; 10-31-2013, 05:45 PM.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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Yes - very similar. Like I said, try adjusting the rack guide first and go from there.
I don't think I've posted any pictures of bushings...~Nate
the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.
Current cars:
91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k
FOTY 2008 winner!
Comment
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Originally posted by skeeters_keeper View PostThere is some adjustment where the pinion engages the rack. The large locknut (30mm?) can be loosened and then the center part (10 or 12mm) can be tightened a little. This pushes on a small die spring that pushes on a bronze bushing keeping the rack snug against the pinion. You don't want to crank on it hard - just snug it slightly to take up wear in the bronze.
However, if you have play in the suspension this probably won't help. That's mostly for "slop" in the steering wheel... your rack most likely needs new bushings. PM me if you need a rebuilt rack, I have one more on the shelf.2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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haha... yea, once you loosen the big nut the inner part should turn easily. I've seen a few racks with the small one partially stripped, I guess from people trying to turn it w/o loosening the lock nut.~Nate
the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.
Current cars:
91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k
FOTY 2008 winner!
Comment
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Ive got a couple spare racks.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
Comment
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The large locknut is bigger than 32mm, I tried 1-5/16" and its bigger than that. Maybe 36mm.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
Comment
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I have a large adjustable wrench that I use, which is why I wasn't sure of the size. If the rack is out of the car (as it usually is when I'm working on them) I hold the nut in a bench vice and turn the rack. Much easier!~Nate
the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.
Current cars:
91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k
FOTY 2008 winner!
Comment
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I'm going to try it in the car. But should I disassemble it to look at the parts? I mean with two other racks I could use the least worn parts. Or is it like the front spindles and have specific shims?1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
Comment
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No specific shims, and while you're in there you might as well pull the parts out and look at them. The only wear piece you will be able to get to is the bronze "rack guide" - I haven't seen one worn beyond service yet, but I'm sure it happens. Squirt some fresh grease down in there while you can. I like doing it off the car... flush it all out in the parts washer and pack it full of fresh grease.~Nate
the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.
Current cars:
91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k
FOTY 2008 winner!
Comment
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Larry there is a torque value for the preload adjustment. ie you tighten the nut and put a torque wrench on the input shaft and measure the resistance. But basically you want to "feel" the rack pop into the center position when turning the input shaft left and right,and this is going to be kinda hard if its in the car. With the steering wheel you have to much mechanical leverage to do this...Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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I could remove the joint off the input shaft. Do you know what the value is? I could set up one of the loose racks and get a feel for what that amount is. I don't really have time to pull the rack to do it on the bench, it's getting aligned tomorrow, I need to get the slop out tonight.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
Comment
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This is good stuff, I'm hoping it will be the fix for the two racks I got laying around, the gear will twist in the housing. I put marks Delrin bushings in one and it would be nice if I could actually use it.2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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