Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

is there any adjustment to the rack and pinion itself to take out slop?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • is there any adjustment to the rack and pinion itself to take out slop?

    I've replaced the inner and outer tie rods and the outside bushings in the housing seem okay.
    Last edited by Pu241; 10-31-2013, 06:23 PM. Reason: clarity
    1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
    1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
    1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
    1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
    2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
    2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
    2005 Accord - wife's DD
    2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
    2015 F150 SCrew - DD

  • #2
    There is some adjustment where the pinion engages the rack. The large locknut (30mm?) can be loosened and then the center part (10 or 12mm) can be tightened a little. This pushes on a small die spring that pushes on a bronze bushing keeping the rack snug against the pinion. You don't want to crank on it hard - just snug it slightly to take up wear in the bronze.

    However, if you have play in the suspension this probably won't help. That's mostly for "slop" in the steering wheel... your rack most likely needs new bushings. PM me if you need a rebuilt rack, I have one more on the shelf.
    ~Nate

    the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

    Current cars:
    91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
    1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
    2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

    FOTY 2008 winner!

    Comment


    • #3
      I checked the bushings on the outer ends of the housing and they look nothing like pics you've posted before. I didn't feel any slop in them when wiggling, its an in & out movement. Which is why I thought of play between the r&p
      1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
      1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
      1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
      1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
      2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
      2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
      2005 Accord - wife's DD
      2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
      2015 F150 SCrew - DD

      Comment


      • #4
        I found this....

        Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991) - Rebuild a Rack and Pinion Steering Rack - do they sell a kit anywhere? its like a bearing or a bushing on the inside is blown out and its all lose in there... anyway to fix this?


        I imagine it's similar...
        Last edited by Larry Hampton; 10-31-2013, 05:45 PM.
        1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
        1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
        1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
        1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
        2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
        2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
        2005 Accord - wife's DD
        2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
        2015 F150 SCrew - DD

        Comment


        • #5
          Yes - very similar. Like I said, try adjusting the rack guide first and go from there.

          I don't think I've posted any pictures of bushings...
          ~Nate

          the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

          Current cars:
          91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
          1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
          2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

          FOTY 2008 winner!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by skeeters_keeper View Post
            There is some adjustment where the pinion engages the rack. The large locknut (30mm?) can be loosened and then the center part (10 or 12mm) can be tightened a little. This pushes on a small die spring that pushes on a bronze bushing keeping the rack snug against the pinion. You don't want to crank on it hard - just snug it slightly to take up wear in the bronze.

            However, if you have play in the suspension this probably won't help. That's mostly for "slop" in the steering wheel... your rack most likely needs new bushings. PM me if you need a rebuilt rack, I have one more on the shelf.
            Heh so the big nut needs loosened first? Maybe that's why I stripped the little head on one of my racks! I'm gonna look into this further, thanks for sharing!
            2008 Kia Rio- new beater
            1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
            1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
            1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
            1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
            1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
            1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
            1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



            "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

            Comment


            • #7
              haha... yea, once you loosen the big nut the inner part should turn easily. I've seen a few racks with the small one partially stripped, I guess from people trying to turn it w/o loosening the lock nut.
              ~Nate

              the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

              Current cars:
              91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
              1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
              2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

              FOTY 2008 winner!

              Comment


              • #8
                Ive got a couple spare racks.
                1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                2005 Accord - wife's DD
                2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                2015 F150 SCrew - DD

                Comment


                • #9
                  The large locknut is bigger than 32mm, I tried 1-5/16" and its bigger than that. Maybe 36mm.
                  1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                  1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                  1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                  1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                  2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                  2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                  2005 Accord - wife's DD
                  2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                  2015 F150 SCrew - DD

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I have a large adjustable wrench that I use, which is why I wasn't sure of the size. If the rack is out of the car (as it usually is when I'm working on them) I hold the nut in a bench vice and turn the rack. Much easier!
                    ~Nate

                    the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                    Current cars:
                    91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                    1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                    2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                    FOTY 2008 winner!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'm going to try it in the car. But should I disassemble it to look at the parts? I mean with two other racks I could use the least worn parts. Or is it like the front spindles and have specific shims?
                      1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                      1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                      1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                      1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                      2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                      2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                      2005 Accord - wife's DD
                      2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                      2015 F150 SCrew - DD

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        No specific shims, and while you're in there you might as well pull the parts out and look at them. The only wear piece you will be able to get to is the bronze "rack guide" - I haven't seen one worn beyond service yet, but I'm sure it happens. Squirt some fresh grease down in there while you can. I like doing it off the car... flush it all out in the parts washer and pack it full of fresh grease.
                        ~Nate

                        the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                        Current cars:
                        91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                        1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                        2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                        FOTY 2008 winner!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Larry there is a torque value for the preload adjustment. ie you tighten the nut and put a torque wrench on the input shaft and measure the resistance. But basically you want to "feel" the rack pop into the center position when turning the input shaft left and right,and this is going to be kinda hard if its in the car. With the steering wheel you have to much mechanical leverage to do this...
                          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I could remove the joint off the input shaft. Do you know what the value is? I could set up one of the loose racks and get a feel for what that amount is. I don't really have time to pull the rack to do it on the bench, it's getting aligned tomorrow, I need to get the slop out tonight.
                            1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                            1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                            1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                            1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                            2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                            2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                            2005 Accord - wife's DD
                            2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                            2015 F150 SCrew - DD

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              This is good stuff, I'm hoping it will be the fix for the two racks I got laying around, the gear will twist in the housing. I put marks Delrin bushings in one and it would be nice if I could actually use it.
                              2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                              1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                              1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                              1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                              1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                              1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                              1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                              1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                              "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X