Hey guys, quick question, I'm going to pick up an O-Ring for my distributor on my 97 here soon because it's seeping oil out of there. Just wondering if there's anything I should know before removing the distributor. I've never done it before and I just want to make sure I'm not sitting there when I'm done and wondering why my car won't start? Thanks guys!
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Replacing Distributor O-Ring
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Just make sure you mark the position of the distributor before you remove it so you can put it back at the same position when you replace it.
Clean as much of the dirt and oil away before your move it and make a mark on the head where the top flange meets it (something like a big
sharp nail will work). Note the position of the rotor button before your remove the distributor and make sure you put it back in with the
button in the same position. Be careful to align the flanges on the rotor shaft to the slot on the cam as you put it back in. If you do this, you timing should remain the same as it was. Make sure you do not overtighten the bolts and strip the threads in the head. If you have the tools to set the time, do that
when you finish if you like. Make sure you reconnect all the wires you remove back to the same place you removed them.
You old ring will probably be a bit brittle and will probably break when you try to remove it, so make sure you have a new one that
fits before you try to remove it. One of those 99 cent pick tool sets from Harbor Freight come in handy for this job. I use one
of the curved ones to get under the ring to pull it out.
Good Luck.Last edited by 1990new; 11-14-2013, 01:01 AM.
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Ok so I got to take a look at it a bit, and without taking anything off I think i'll make marks at the top of the distributor where it meets the head and also mark the placing of the bolts that go into it. Is there anywhere else that I should mark it?
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One mark is all you need on the outside and one mark on the inside to show where the rotor is pointing. Too many lines is confusing and unecessary.
I normally remove the cap and jog the engine until the rotor is pointing to 10 o'clock and make one mark in line with the rotor. Done.Last edited by bravekozak; 11-17-2013, 06:15 AM.
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Thanks a lot for all of your advice! I didn't have any problems at all, everything literally slid back into place without me needing to reposition it. One concern though, the old O-Ring was flat and tight to the point that I had to just cut it in half, which might have been what caused the oil seeping out of that area but the new one had a round look and was loose. . Should I be concerned by this or will the heat address the looseness?
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Did you oil the outside of the o-ring, so that it slid in without pinching or rolling? As long as it reasonably snug, you should be good to go.Last edited by bravekozak; 11-17-2013, 01:24 PM.
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