So u think the solenoid in the relay is stuck open?
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Yeah, I have had a sensor where it would provide a ground, but would never kick the fan on.
Those are scary, I didn't even know it until the needle kept climbing in bumper to bumper traffic moving at a snail's pace.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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Mines the same way. I just turn on the fan when I'm sitting in traffic. I have another car with a digital gauges. I changed it over to a manual fan too. It's nice to have good gauges. I'd like to find some digital gauges for my festiva. At least oil pressure and engine temp. I've had so many old cars I don't like trusting the old needle type gauges.
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Now I'm confused again. The 89 EVTM shows both the switch and fan normally open for the carb and the EFI. Yet, there is a different diagram in the 89 shop manual. Oh well.Last edited by bravekozak; 11-21-2013, 09:03 PM.
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That's why I went manual. Sensors are great until they don't work. People can call me crazy (and many do), but I'm a big keep it simple kind of guy. An on/off switch works, every time. Just have to pay a little more attention to what's going on. I've had cars from the 50's thru the 2000's and I've found the old simple systems are the best.
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I thought your guage wasn't reliable. I really don't think anybody pays attention to where on the gauge the fan kicks in. It should kick on a little over 200 degrees. But where is that on a needle gauge? If the fan keeps running when you shut down the car, pull the fuse. Just remember to put it back in when you take off again. In the sort term you're better off if the fan runs all the time. Better too cool than too hot to a point. But a car running too cool will ruin the seal between the pistons and the cylinder walls eventually because you will run too rich. Then you have a problem with blow by. It's what I call dumping fuel. Too much gas is coming in and it will contaminate your oil, washing away the ring/cylinder seal. I understand where you're comming from. Sometimes you just have to risk it. If you have to be somewhere you don't have any choice. Run it cool and hope it works out. I've done that sort of thing many times, and it has worked out most the time. But it really sucks when it doesn't.
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Running a switch for the fan is not hard. I'm more than willing to help you with it. But I can't do that until Saturday. If you have to use the car Friday then run it cool. Too hot is a really bad thing. Heads like to warp when they get too hot. We need to connect by phone and I'll walk you thru how to manually switch the fan. It's no big deal. Luckily these are tough little cars.
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1993 GL 5 speed
It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!
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My gauge reads just below half when the fan kicks on.
The fan shouldn't run after you turn it off and take the key out, the ignition switches power to it. Just let it run until you get a new (even junkyard, or from here) switch. Heck I think I have one on my junk motor for you.
Make sure you have coolant to put in after you lose some when the old switch comes out. Good time for a cascade flush anyways.-Zack
Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub
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