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This is what i plan to do on my next day off...
Install colorplast on the back end to seal up the rear bumper. I already have an airdam. I did the vigaro home depot with self tappers. It DOES help. However i drive faster at freeway speeds since i now have tires that are actually balanced. My old 12's kinda forced me to drive 65mph or under.
Momentary kill switch for ignition. I bought a single pole normally on switch. Hold it down and it interrupts the ignition. Do i just cut the black with red stripe and go inline on this or do i need a relay?
I also bought a dual pole momentary for ignition kill AND crank but it looks like without a relays i cant use it because the terminals on it are so tiny. Again if you hold it down it opens the switch. I wanted to originally use an extra festiva window washer switch to accomplish this but i just bought a cheap one from amazon. No one really has discussed killswitches on this forum very much, Ive done the searches. I really wish members would address this because i think killing the engine without having to cycle the key makes our ignition switches last longer. I go around a corner fast and i have a 50/50 chance of my keys flying out of their home as it is. Great to check the mailbox with engine running, not great if it fails on me in the future.
I know all fuel injection has decel cutoff for fuel but they do it on their own terms. Is there an affordable adjustable switch that can be actuated as soon as it sees decel vacuum figures, like -24m or so? Most ECUs bring fuel back online early, like at 1800rpm. If I'm still slowing down in gear a vacuum switch to keep injectors off longer would help ever so slightly. The key here is to have more and more things automatic.
I wouldn't mind tapping into the tps and killing the alternator at 70% throttle. To save gas you don't use 70% throttle often but if you can squeeze 1hp out of it then i want it!
So how do i do my electrical switches?
Install colorplast on the back end to seal up the rear bumper. I already have an airdam. I did the vigaro home depot with self tappers. It DOES help. However i drive faster at freeway speeds since i now have tires that are actually balanced. My old 12's kinda forced me to drive 65mph or under.
Momentary kill switch for ignition. I bought a single pole normally on switch. Hold it down and it interrupts the ignition. Do i just cut the black with red stripe and go inline on this or do i need a relay?
I also bought a dual pole momentary for ignition kill AND crank but it looks like without a relays i cant use it because the terminals on it are so tiny. Again if you hold it down it opens the switch. I wanted to originally use an extra festiva window washer switch to accomplish this but i just bought a cheap one from amazon. No one really has discussed killswitches on this forum very much, Ive done the searches. I really wish members would address this because i think killing the engine without having to cycle the key makes our ignition switches last longer. I go around a corner fast and i have a 50/50 chance of my keys flying out of their home as it is. Great to check the mailbox with engine running, not great if it fails on me in the future.
I know all fuel injection has decel cutoff for fuel but they do it on their own terms. Is there an affordable adjustable switch that can be actuated as soon as it sees decel vacuum figures, like -24m or so? Most ECUs bring fuel back online early, like at 1800rpm. If I'm still slowing down in gear a vacuum switch to keep injectors off longer would help ever so slightly. The key here is to have more and more things automatic.
I wouldn't mind tapping into the tps and killing the alternator at 70% throttle. To save gas you don't use 70% throttle often but if you can squeeze 1hp out of it then i want it!
So how do i do my electrical switches?
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