No back Brakes!

[iriegnome]

ok kids here you go. Rear spindle was bad (Had a used one). Rear wheel cylinders were frozen (bought both new from Auto Zone, Rear shoes were soaked with fluid (bought new ones), E-brake adjusters were frozen and rusted solid (I referbed both sides), Hooked up the e-brake with new clevis pins, Adjusted e-brake cable, bled brakes and found the proportional valve was leaking. Replaced the proportional valve (6 hours), broke the bottom brake line (left front) and replaced it, bled brakes used 1 quart of brake fluid and there you have it. 13 hours of work later and the front and back brakes work perfectly. E-brake works like the day it came out of the factory!! No leaks no drips and the car is on the road again...By the way, if anyone asks, I HATE PROPORTIONAL VALVES and all that is connected to them. :tm::tm:

[Spike]

Hey hey.. I need my proportional valves replaced. Wanna come over?!

Joking joking. Congrats man, glad you had fun!

-Joe

[iriegnome]

Thanks Spike. I told my father-in-law that if there was anything wrong with the replacement or it leaked again, he was getting the car back!!

[bravekozak]

By the way, if anyone asks, I HATE PROPORTIONAL VALVES and all that is connected to them.

If you had stainless brake lines and fittings, you would not have any trouble.

[iriegnome]

Good point, but I just used the old standard steel line.

[drddan]

It was a long haul, but I am glad you got it fixed!

[iriegnome]

Yes it was. I feel better that the car my daughter drives is now much more safe than before. The e-brake was a real sticking point of safety for me, I was super glad it was the rusted and frozen adjuster arms. Also as it turns out, the back brakes will not adjust properly or work correctly without those adjusters functioning.

[iriegnome]

I just thought I would update my posting. When I got back to work on Tuesday after I replaced the proportional valve, I had a chance to look through the Heinz manual. Yes, I spelled it that way, because it is not much use other than to put on a Hamburger. There is no mention of the proportional valve. Nothing about it at all! Fat lot of good it would have done me to even have the repair manual, it would not have helped. Just an FYI.

[iriegnome]

It has been 7 days since I posted my update. Well, my car was nearly empty of brake fluid. So, there is a leak somewhere. I know it is not brake lines or the proportional valve. No drips leaks or wet spots. There would only make it two things left than if I am not mistaken. Master Cylinder or Brake booster? Any thoughts?
I don't see any fluid at all anywhere

[drddan]

Brake fluid can drain into the master cylinder and not see a drop of fluid anywhere. Check the MC

[iriegnome]

I am thinking MC..

[iriegnome]

Well, brakes went out again today. Looks like the Master Cylinder has to be replaced. Found them at Auto Zone in a reman version $40! However, I just had foot surgery 2 weeks ago and should not be on my feet that much, but looks like I bite it and replace the MC

[iriegnome]

Ok then. Changed the MC this morning and the proportional valve I just changed started leaking!! Luckily my father-in-law had a cast steel one that does not have the little valve/rocker plate on the one side. Just 2 plugs on it. Worked perfectly. BTW - I can now change the proportional valve in under 3 hours including changing a brake line as well! Guess what, I hate proportional valves.

[iriegnome]

The cast iron proportional valve I put on my car is from a 1989. Is this going to be a problem? Mine was an aluminum block with a rocker arm and 2 valve like things under a side cover. The one I put on only has 2 plugs over the holes on the one side. Can anyone explain the differences (other than the obvious)

[bravekozak]

Need a picture of what you are talking about. Mine is aluminum. Did your old one look like mine?