I unplugged the sensor, sure enough the fan starts spinning upon start up. So where should I go from here? I appreciate the help.
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When does your radiator fan switch on?
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Originally posted by m3t4lm4n222 View PostI unplugged the sensor, sure enough the fan starts spinning upon start up. So where should I go from here? I appreciate the help.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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Is that sensor called the temperature sensor. Is it the same sort of sensor typically in the radiator in other vehicles? Because I literally just had the temperature sensor and fan switch replaced.
If it is truly busted, should I simply unplug it and run the car with the fan always running or will that not allow the car to get to proper operating temperature?
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The temperature sensor is screwed into the water neck or thermostat housing. It has nothing to do with the fan operation.
The cooling fan switch is screwed in the block. It turns the fan on by breaking ground at 207°F.
If your fan does not turn on at 207°F, replace the cooling fan switch.Last edited by bravekozak; 01-25-2014, 09:30 AM.
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Originally posted by m3t4lm4n222 View PostIs that sensor called the temperature sensor. Is it the same sort of sensor typically in the radiator in other vehicles? Because I literally just had the temperature sensor and fan switch replaced.
If it is truly busted, should I simply unplug it and run the car with the fan always running or will that not allow the car to get to proper operating temperature?
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why do people keep insisting that the fan switch is on the block and not the thermostat housing? Unless they were different between the 80s, and 90s, but I am pretty sure they are not.
IT IS ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING! The one on the block is for the GAUGE!
Since the thermostat housing isn't even metal to begin with, it doesn't matter if Teflon tape was used, because the switch has a built in ground. (Don't ask me how, it just does.)
Unless I have gone completely mental, THAT is how things are setup.
This is what you need.
Last edited by TorqueEffect; 01-25-2014, 12:22 PM.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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The thermostat housing is aluminum. Yes, it provides ground to the fan switch.
When the fan switch is connected, it provides a path to ground for the fan relay.
The relay is set up as a fail safe, if the relay burns out, the fan comes on. If you want to learn more, search the web for SPDT relay. The common pin and normally closed pin connect power to the fan. When the relay is energized by the key, the ground from the fan switch connects the common pin and normally open pin, sending the positive voltage nowhere. When the fan switch breaks the path to ground, it allows the relay to rest and send power to the fan.
To test for a faulty fan switch, keep your hands out of the way of the fan and unplug the switch which should kick on the fan. If you hear clicking and no fan, your cooling fan is bad.-Zack
Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub
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The temp sensor in the themostat housing is for the temp gauge. It has nothing to do with the fan switch which is screwed and grounded into the cylinder head (without teflon tape) a couple of inches to the left of the water neck(thermostat housing).
The temp sensor wire is Y/W . The fan switch wire is GN/Y.
Follow the wire colors. The one you want is GN/Y.Last edited by bravekozak; 01-25-2014, 02:06 PM.
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Originally posted by crazyrog17 View PostThe thermostat housing is aluminum. Yes, it provides ground to the fan switch.
When the fan switch is connected, it provides a path to ground for the fan relay.
The relay is set up as a fail safe, if the relay burns out, the fan comes on. If you want to learn more, search the web for SPDT relay. The common pin and normally closed pin connect power to the fan. When the relay is energized by the key, the ground from the fan switch connects the common pin and normally open pin, sending the positive voltage nowhere. When the fan switch breaks the path to ground, it allows the relay to rest and send power to the fan.
To test for a faulty fan switch, keep your hands out of the way of the fan and unplug the switch which should kick on the fan. If you hear clicking and no fan, your cooling fan is bad.
Originally posted by bravekozak View PostThe temp sensor in the themostat housing is for the temp gauge. It has nothing to do with the fan switch which is screwed and grounded into the cylinder head (without teflon tape) a couple of inches to the left of the water neck(thermostat housing).
The temp sensor wire is Y/W . The fan switch wire is GN/Y.
Follow the wire colors. The one you want is GN/Y.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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When does your radiator fan switch on?
bravekozak, I've only worked on EFI cars but they were all opposite of what you state.Last edited by crazyrog17; 01-25-2014, 02:43 PM.-Zack
Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub
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Video link
It is still processing, but I have to get to work.
Sorry for crap cinematography, but it was cold, and lots of stuff was in the way.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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