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  • #16
    Originally posted by kevyrev View Post
    Thanks so much guys for the help, I'll continue to look and verify that the inertia switch is okay. In the meantime I'll get those terminals cleaned up and see what we have and go from there.
    Kevy you dont have to check the inertia switch or the pump relay all you have to do is the fuel pump test. Thats why the engineer's placed the wire where it is. If the fuel pump test is a pass,both of these components are working.(And all of your components in the fuel system,except the vaf grd) One Test with a paper clip or wire,thats it-nice and simple :thumbs_up:
    Last edited by nitrofarm; 02-15-2014, 07:17 PM.
    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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    • #17
      Okay, well been busy from work now I'm off for five days, hope to get much needed work done. I put a good charge on the battery so that's okay. Removed the back seat and pulled back carpet, checked the connection of the fuel pump wire harness, unhooked and then hooked back. Cleaned my fusible links and then did the fuel pump test as described by nitrofarm. Nothing, no sound at the pump, or when I first hooked the battery back or turned the key or ever as I turned over the engine. I wish I could find my volt meter and test light to verify that power is going to the pump. I can only assume that my pump itself is DEAD and that it is getting power to it but just DEAD. Guess I'll go ahead and order the new pump.

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      • #18
        Pumps are expensive. Test lights are cheap. I would buy another light and test first.
        Last edited by bravekozak; 02-19-2014, 07:50 PM.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by kevyrev View Post
          Okay, well been busy from work now I'm off for five days, hope to get much needed work done. I put a good charge on the battery so that's okay. Removed the back seat and pulled back carpet, checked the connection of the fuel pump wire harness, unhooked and then hooked back. Cleaned my fusible links and then did the fuel pump test as described by nitrofarm. Nothing, no sound at the pump, or when I first hooked the battery back or turned the key or ever as I turned over the engine. I wish I could find my volt meter and test light to verify that power is going to the pump. I can only assume that my pump itself is DEAD and that it is getting power to it but just DEAD. Guess I'll go ahead and order the new pump.
          Ok so lets just make sure you did the test correctly.(And prevent a premature unnecessary purchase of a pump) Was the ignition key in the run position when you performed the test?
          Last edited by nitrofarm; 02-19-2014, 09:42 PM.
          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

          Comment


          • #20
            Yes I did do the fuel pump test with the key on. As of so far today this is what I've done, bought a test light, confirmed that my fuel pump relay is clicking, nice!, checked the inertia switch, it's down, nice!, checked the harness at the fuel pump. I clipped neg. to black and had all terminals light up but bottom two. I tried them while cranking too and nothing. I have a pic to show this. Green circles are lighting, black circle was black wire, bottom two are green and white wires shown with red circles. Obviously I don't know what any of them are coming from. Other wires as shown in pic color are: top left YELLOW,
            top right GREEN, YELLOW
            below top left BLACK
            below top right GREEN YELLOW
            bottom two GREEN, WHITE
            Last edited by kevyrev; 02-20-2014, 01:28 PM.

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            • #21
              Did a little reading and seems as though the bottom wires in harness (green,white) are out going to the inertia switch.

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              • #22
                Just ordered a new fuel pump!!

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                • #23
                  Ok so we know now thats its NOT the VAF Grd circuit.(fuel pump test failed at test connector) And you are telling me the fuel pump relay is working.(Because you got power @ GN/Y) That leaves us with three things that could keep you from getting the pump to run.
                  Bad inertia switch
                  Bad Grd @ inertia switch
                  Bad pump
                  Before I went and bought a pump or even pulled it out. I would verify my inertia switch & its Grd. (This requires checking the Grd side of the inertia switch for continuity.)Probe the GN/W wire that goes into the inertia switch probe Grd. Got continuity? If so, the switch AND its Grd are good. The Red wire at this connector goes to passive restraint module so dont worry about it.
                  Buuuut before I went and yanked the pump.I would give it 12 V directly to either of the GN/Y wires.And Grd at either of the GN/W wires. If that doesn't make that bitch run I know my pump is locked up.
                  GN/Y = Hot from FP relay
                  GN/W = Grd side of Fuel Pump
                  Y = Hot from fuel gauge
                  B = Grd side of sending unit
                  SORRY IT TAKES ME SO LONG TO GET BACK TO YOU. But I'm a 3rd shifter and I wake up at 3:30 pm. And I'm not really firing on all cylinders till about 6:00 pm. Its 10:30 and almost time for some lunch Peace and hope this helps you.
                  Yes you could have just replaced the pump.But anyone can "Shotgun" parts. Who knows you might just have some corrosion keeping the pump from getting 12V. But most likely that pump "Varnished" up from sitting too long.
                  Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                  Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                  Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                  • #24
                    YELLOW is juice for the fuel level sender
                    BLACK is ground for the fuel level sender

                    The two GREEN/YELLOW is redundant wiring, power for the fuel pump

                    The two GREEN/WHITE is redundant wiring going to the inertia switch on the way to ground

                    Be sure to check if your ground screw on the body, below the hatch striker, is tight.
                    A better suggestion is to manually ground the GN/W and bypass the inertia switch to see if the pump motor is fried.
                    Last edited by bravekozak; 02-20-2014, 11:54 PM.

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                    • #25
                      Wow is there a echo in this thread?
                      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                      • #26
                        Yes, because I didn't refresh while looking at my schematics while responding. I am sure glad I don't have a passive restraint module and wired my Festiva with a two terminal inertia switch (no ground).
                        Last edited by bravekozak; 02-21-2014, 07:22 AM.

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                        • #27
                          I should have the pump on Tuesday, and as soon as I have a chance I'll get to the install. I'll try to take pics and post my progress. Got a good deal on the pump. I'm about 90 percent sure the pump is bad with what you guys showed me to check, thanks again festiva friends! At least if it wasn't a pump and I then narrow it down to something else, I'll have a new pump that I probably would have replaced in the next year or two who knows.

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                          • #28
                            Well pull the old to prepare for new.And hook some juice up to it on the bench.I'm hyper & hate waiting on answers
                            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Well, pump came and I finally got to it. I must say it was a bit frightening to see the old pump. Looked like something that came off the bottom of the ocean. Almost had barnacles growing on it, varnished up extremely bad. Put some juice to it and it did not respond! By the looks I'd have been shocked if it did. New install went great, just had to go to parts store and buy a different strainer. I installed an airtex 8023 and the new strainer pointed upwards near vertical and it hit the bottom of tank and wouldn't allow me to mount the hanger. I have two pics here of old pump, strainer actually had deteriorated. The other pic is of new pump with vertical strainer that I swapped. But for the big news, buttoned everything up and pump comes on and hums nicely, but battery is dead and is on the charger. I was so wired to kick the tires and light the fires!! Oh, well, I'm good, I now the pump is working now.

                              [ATTACH=CONFIG]15056[/ATTACH


                              Last edited by kevyrev; 02-25-2014, 02:49 PM.

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                              • #30
                                Woah. I've never seen one that bad before.
                                Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.

                                Old Blue- New Tricks
                                91 Festiva FSM PDF - Dropbox

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