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Fuel Pump troubleshooting

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  • #31
    You def want to get a new fuel filter asap.And make sure you change your oil if you haven't already. Glad you got it going-
    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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    • #32
      Thanks nitrofarm! Just fired it up and took a lap around the backyard!! Not ready for the road, no tags yet. I def will be changing the oil and needs a new valve cover gasket. I have oil all over the engine and under hood where she had been cruising with a leaking gasket. Got a new distributor cap on the way. Ordering a rotor button and plugs too. Believe need to change transmission fluid as well. Has anyone used degreaser on an engine recently, I need to do this and could use some pointers. I would like to sincerely thank everyone who helped me diagnose the fuel pump situation. I could have just changed it and got lucky, but you guys helped me narrow it down and feel more comfortable about what I was doing, can't thank you guys enough.

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      • #33
        Glad you're up and running Kev. You can degrease with products such as Simple Green, Purple Power or Gunk. Spray on a warm engine...not hot. Cover electrical components with aluminum foil to be safe. Let soak for a while then simply spray off.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        "Fred" 93 Festiva L B6-ME Swap
        “Though he is small, he is but fierce.”

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        • #34
          Thanks dalebwilson! I need to get that gunk cleaned off soon, got a new valve cover gasket on the way!

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          • #35
            Stop using ethanol gas or your new pump will look like the old one in a few years.

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            • #36
              Kevy I completely soak my cars engine when I first get a new one overnight with watever is on sale. The whole can -then the next day a use a 2.5 gal "pump" style insectiside sprayer filled with hot water to rinse off.(its easier to use and control than a hose) Then I dry it off with a Long air nozzle.
              Man I hate to be the messnger of bad news....but if you have oil on the bottom of the hood. You need new seals ( besides the valve cover)Valve cover leaks always go down the front of the engine. If you Alt is covered with oil,dont even bother driving the car until you replace the front main seal. What happens is the seals get hard as plastic.They cant seal anymore because the loose they're softness. Then worse they cut a groove into your crank. Change your front main and Cam seal on the same day. Then the easy one is the Dizzy seal. So far I've gotten lucky and have been able to change my rear mains when pulling the tranny(They seem to be more forgiving when leaks are concerned)
              Just the fact that your car didnt run for over two years leads me to believe the seals are dry rotted. Good luck-
              Last edited by nitrofarm; 02-26-2014, 03:15 AM.
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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              • #37
                ^ What he said!
                Dan




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                • #38
                  Thanks for the advice. But... doesn't look like I can really get to it while the engine is in the car, hopefully I'm wrong. I've seen were some can remove the wheel, fender guard and have access. I don't see anything but engine bay sheet metal...Help!

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by kevyrev View Post
                    Thanks for the advice. But... doesn't look like I can really get to it while the engine is in the car, hopefully I'm wrong. I've seen were some can remove the wheel, fender guard and have access. I don't see anything but engine bay sheet metal...Help!
                    Aah no sweat young man,we got your back. With a little shade tree engineering you'll have that motor sealed up. First use the "Search" and read as much as you can find. Then what you dont understand ask us,we will all help,trust me. Yes you have to pull the tire and remove a tiny splash guard. But this car is real easy is to get the front main/cam seal done. But start a new "Repair Help" thread for the Front main and cam seal. Top on your list should be cleaning the engine beforehand for this task and then doing both seals while you have the accessory side of the motor opened up. Good luck and Get Er Done -
                    Last edited by nitrofarm; 02-28-2014, 02:31 PM.
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Kev:

                      Pick up one of these. The entire procedure to replace the seals is in there with clear pictures, instructions, specs, etc. Best $20 you will spend for your car.

                      Haynes.JPG
                      "Fred" 93 Festiva L B6-ME Swap
                      “Though he is small, he is but fierce.”

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                      • #41
                        Thanks so much guys. Can't thank each of you enough for helping me with the fuel pump. I will start new thread for each of my issues as the fuel pump is taken care of. Just as I'm posting this my valve cover gasket, rotor button and distributor cap just came in the mail. So exciting, I plan to degrease the engine today and go ahead and order crank and cam seal as I didn't know if I had access to it before. My boy nitrofarm says I do so I'm ordering! I have other issues and will start threads for each and maybe do a thread of my progress to date.

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                        • #42
                          When you take your valve cover off to give it a twenty year cleaning, be sure it looks like this before you put it back together. PCV air must flow through the passages from the middle all the way to the end.

                          This what it will look like after you remove all of the sludge out of it. Good luck.
                          Last edited by bravekozak; 03-01-2014, 12:26 PM.

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                          • #43
                            Thanks so much bravekozak. I really appreciate that!! I actually only got the outer rubber gasket. Now I see kits with that other inner gasket as shown in your pic. Can't seem to find it seperate anywhere as I already have the outer. Wow that would be a pain to cut by hand.
                            Last edited by kevyrev; 03-01-2014, 03:18 PM.

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                            • #44
                              That is the original gasket. I just cleaned the oil off of the gasket and reused it. Just realize it's flipped over from right to left when assembled. Usually there is so much crud across the passageways, it's a wonder that the PVC can suck anything at all. Please post a picture when you open yours up. That last picture I posted was from a brand new valve cover that is currently in for silver ceramic coating. I will post pics when I get it back and install it (along with my bright red powder coated air cleaner. I just got a call yesterday, saying it was ready for pickup).
                              Last edited by bravekozak; 03-01-2014, 05:24 PM.

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                              • #45
                                Thanks again bravekozak! I will definitely post before and after pics of the valve cover. I know it's going to be horrid just from looking inside. I'm posting a before and after pic of my engine degreasing as well.

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