While you are checking things, check the vane in the vane air flow meter behind the air filter, make sure it is not sticking and moves freely
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Originally posted by Icedawg View PostWhile you are checking things, check the vane in the vane air flow meter behind the air filter, make sure it is not sticking and moves freely
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk~Scott
1989 Festiva L EFI
2010 Toyota Prius
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TPS.jpg
Scott:
In short, the TPS ensures there is continuity across the 3 pins in various throttle positions. The 3 positions of testing are:
-Idle
-Throttle slightly open
-Throttle wide open
The attached diagram will help you and indicates where the continuity should and should not be. Unplug the TPS connector by gently prying the paper clip type fastener loose. You will need a feeler gauge, phillips screwdriver and multi-meter. If your TPS does not read correctly, loosen the 2 screws on the TPS and rotate to adjust. Respond back if you need more help.Last edited by dalebwilson; 02-28-2014, 07:13 AM."Fred" 93 Festiva L B6-ME Swap
“Though he is small, he is but fierce.”
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Somebody give me a suggestion of what I should test tomorrow. Tps tests good. Fuel filter is good. Spark plugs and wires replaced. Coil tests at over 9k ohms. Still cutting out when accelerating hard. I can get up to any speed as long as I do it slowly.
The issue just started out of the blue one day. I blew a left front metal brake line on my way to work. I had it towed to a shop but they quoted the job to high. I went after work and changed out the line in their parking lot and drove it home. On the way into work that day it ran fine driving home from the shop it was cutting out. I have looked it over to make sure I didn't knock off a vacuum line or anything like that an so far I have found nothing.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk~Scott
1989 Festiva L EFI
2010 Toyota Prius
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Throttle Position Sensor
Actually I don't think it would be the o2 sensor because the issue happens at cold startup and the o2 sensor doesn't work until it warmed up. Correct?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by scottxd45; 03-08-2014, 09:39 AM.~Scott
1989 Festiva L EFI
2010 Toyota Prius
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Most likely you have already checked this, but just in case:
Make sure you did not accidentally disconnect any hoses or the power connector from the idle air control while you were fooling with
the brake line. From your description so far though, the IAC is not likely to cause the acceleration lag.
More likely to be the input sensors that have control of the volume of fuel being injected. The TPS, VAF, CPS, and the temperature sensors (air and water). And as described previously, something preventing the fuel pressure from being sufficient.Last edited by 1990new; 03-08-2014, 11:09 AM.
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So after a month of ignoring this issue I decided to look into again today. I pulled the fuel pump and the sock screen looked old a dirty so I cut it off to eliminate it as an issue. I reinstalled the pump and test drove it. No change. I thirsted the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm seems to hold vacuum. I ended up playing with ignition timing. I retarded it some and took it for a drive. It got significantly better. I retarded it a bit more. No more miss. Running great !
I never messed with the timing when it started missing all of a sudden. How could the distributor get moved? Oh well it's running right at least. Thanks everyone who helped with this. I really do appreciate the input.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk~Scott
1989 Festiva L EFI
2010 Toyota Prius
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Humor me.
When and how did the shop learn you weren't going to let them drain your wallet?'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
Prince of Darkness -1987
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