Tested tps with multimeter according to these instructions....

[jimdigs]

Your TPS is out of adjustment. Loosen the 2 screws and rotate the TPS until your meter beeps in all 3 positions. You should have the connector unplugged and the key off. Test the TPS and not the supply wires.


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I did unplug the connector and I did test the TPS not the supply wires. So you think it just needs adjusting and that its not bad? thanks for all the info and help

[dalebwilson]

That is what I believe. It doesn't have to be off much to work incorrectly.


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[jimdigs]

Your TPS is out of adjustment. Loosen the 2 screws and rotate the TPS until your meter beeps in all 3 positions. You should have the connector unplugged and the key off. Test the TPS and not the supply wires.


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I did unplug the connector and I did test the TPS not the supply wires. So you think it just needs adjusting and that its not bad? thanks for all the info and help

[jimdigs]

I'm a little afraid of trying to adjust it as I may make the car run to lean or to rich. Guess it don't matter as the thing isn't working right to begin with.

[dalebwilson]

It's easy to adjust. You can do it. If it's not reading correctly you will have to adjust it or replace it and then adjust the new one.


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[jimdigs]

After doing some more research on this I find that the continuity (beep) is only supposed to happen in two positions. The Idle and at a certain point in WOT (wide open throttle). I do get the beep (continuity) in idle but when I thought I was doing the WOT position all I did was open the throttle as much as I could and crammed a screwdriver behind it to keep it opened up and then tested it but it may not have been in the "certain" WOT position that it needs to be to make continuity. My probes will have to be on the middle tab of the sensor and the top tab of the sensor for the WOT position. Just like it shows in your photo dalebwilson....it has a YES in the IDL/Ground box and a YES in the WOT/Ground box. I am going to check it one more time while slowly moving the throttle around in the WOT position and if I still don't have continuity I will indeed fiddle with the sensor and try to get it to beep if it won't then I'll be needing a new TPS. Thanks again, Jim

[dalebwilson]

Jim: To test WOT do the following:

1. Attach your meter probes to the pins to free both your hands.

2. Hold the throttle wide open.

3. Attach your meter probes between IDL and TL (you should not hear a beep and not have continuity)

4. Attach your meter probes between PSW and TL (you should hear a beep and have continuity)

5. If not reading correctly, loosen 2 screws, hold throttle wide open with one hand and slowly rotate TPS until it reads correctly.

[jimdigs]

So my TPS has continuity in idle but not WOT. No matter where I adjust the sensor I cannot get continuity in WOT. I also broke the bottom screw off that holds the sensor down. Nice. Hope I can get her out, nothing to grab onto. I need a new sensor. The cheapest I can find is $62 through auto zone. I called all the salvage yards in my area, no festiva parts at all. Rock auto has one for $33 but...on ebay they have the exact same part number listed as rock auto but the one on ebay states that it is not compatible with a 93 festiva only a 89 festiva?!?!? So I didn't order that one. Guess I'm stuck with shelling out sixty bucks for a simple little part.

[jimdigs]

Now I'm giving up!! I spend the money for a new TPS and put it on today. I put the .02 gauge in and adjust until I have continuity. Put the .027 gauge in til I have no continuity anywhere. I then open up the throttle by hand and wedge a screwdriver in to keep it open but like my old TPS I cannot get continuity no matter where I adjust. I then think to have my son go in the car and press the gas pedal to the floor. I then had continuity at WOT. So that tells me that my old TPS was probably good to I just was not testing it the right way. Why does it matter if I open the throttle by had at the engine vs in the car at the pedal. I'm out $63 and my car still has no power in 5th gear and I'm getting bad gas mileage 32mpg in my 5 speed. I'm done spending money on this thing. Only other thing I can think that it might be is the sensor in the distibutor. Sick of it.

[dalebwilson]

Jim, I am sorry you are still having problems. This thread started out with you asking for instructions on setting your TPS. I didn't see you mention anything about 5th gear power loss and low fuel mileage. Please start another thread and describe your symptoms. I would bet there are folks on here that have experienced the same thing and can help. It is a good thing that you have eliminated your TPS. There are many other things that can effect power. Have you done these basic diagnostic tests?

-Checked compression on all 4 cylinders (should be 150-210 consistently across all 4)
-Basic timing belt marks set right
-Checked ignition timing with the self test pin grounded (should be set at 10BTDC at 700RPM)
-Checked battery, alternator, coil, spark plugs, wires and rotor (check wires at night for arcing)
(spritz the coil with water, if it affects engine, replace it)
-Dirty air filer
-VAF with stuck vain
-Fuel filter and pressure at rail
-O2 sensor (can greatly affect fuel mileage)

[tooldude]

It is possible that you have an exhaust restriction due to the catalytic converter getting clogged up or even the muffler. If you don't have a guage to check back pressure in the system, disconnect the exhaust from the cat and see if performance is normal.

[jimdigs]

Jim, I am sorry you are still having problems. This thread started out with you asking for instructions on setting your TPS. I didn't see you mention anything about 5th gear power loss and low fuel mileage. Please start another thread and describe your symptoms. I would bet there are folks on here that have experienced the same thing and can help. It is a good thing that you have eliminated your TPS. There are many other things that can effect power. Have you done these basic diagnostic tests?

-Checked compression on all 4 cylinders (should be 150-210 consistently across all 4)




-Basic timing belt marks set right
-Checked ignition timing with the self test pin grounded (should be set at 10BTDC at 700RPM)
-Checked battery, alternator, coil, spark plugs, wires and rotor (check wires at night for arcing)
(spritz the coil with water, if it affects engine, replace it)
-Dirty air filer
-VAF with stuck vain
-Fuel filter and pressure at rail
-O2 sensor (can greatly affect fuel mileage)

Hi Dalebwilson, I did start a thread awhile ago about this problem but no concrete answers, just to let ya know what I have done so far.....
new fuel filter, new thermostat. as of 02/02/14

Spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor. 02/08/14

New ignition coil. 02/20/14

Rechecked cam timing. 02/22/14

New coolant temperature sensor 03/05/14

New oxygen sensor 03/15/14
New wipers 03/15/14

New front driver side inner and outter wheel bearings 03/19/14

Had all four wheels balanced, drivers side rear rim is bent a little. 03/22/14

New TPs (Throttle Position Sensor), new PCV valve. 03/29/14

I have searched on this site and found some similar problems and the only answer that I saw was a new distributor, maybe its the sensor that is in the distributor is bad? Thanks for the help you have given me though.

[jimdigs]

It is possible that you have an exhaust restriction due to the catalytic converter getting clogged up or even the muffler. If you don't have a guage to check back pressure in the system, disconnect the exhaust from the cat and see if performance is normal.

I believe someone suggested that in my other post about this problem and festyboy stated that a plugged converter would not cause the problem only in the higher gears? I'll have to go back and check for sure though. Thanks anyway.

[SiliconSoul]

Have you ever checked your fuel pressure?

[dalebwilson]

Jim, it appears you have covered everything but checking compression. That is what I would recommend next. I had 2 burnt exhaust valves on my festy and it had low power and was getting MPG's in the 30's.