Tested tps with multimeter according to these instructions....

[tooldude]

I believe someone suggested that in my other post about this problem and festyboy stated that a plugged converter would not cause the problem only in the higher gears? I'll have to go back and check for sure though. Thanks anyway.

My thought on this was that a power loss is more 'noticeable' in the higher gears, especially with a small engine, even though it is through the whole power band. That symptom obviously has many possible causes so I'm not pushing restriction as the definite cause of your problem. Also, a partial restriction could be accompanying another problem.

[jimdigs]

My thought on this was that a power loss is more 'noticeable' in the higher gears, especially with a small engine, even though it is through the whole power band. That symptom obviously has many possible causes so I'm not pushing restriction as the definite cause of your problem. Also, a partial restriction could be accompanying another problem.

I do appreciate your input. Is there another way to check and see if its the convertor without taking it apart? Its very rusted and I'm sure I would bust off a bolt.
What about the problem being the distributor and the sensor on that?

The car idles real nice and quiet, 1st through 3rd gear are great, nice and peppie. 4th isn't to bad but not as much more as the other gears. I put it in 5th and it doesn't die down or anything, if I want to pass or speed up quickly in 5th forget about it. Its a complete dog. I know bigger tires can do this a little but going from 12 to 13 inchers wouldn't affect the car that much would it? Plus my gas mileage is about 34-36mpg not good at all. Something is wrong but can't find what it is. The one thread I read where someone had a similar problem, but there car was cutting out pretty much at higher gears, they changed all the things I have but when they changed the distributor that fixed their problem.

[tooldude]

I believe you should be checking compression like dalebwilson suggested and making sure you have no hidden vacuum hose leaks, and bolts are tight on both manifolds. An exhaust leak around the O2 sensor can affect its performance. You can loosen your exhaust pipe at the manifold to check for restriction but it's more trouble than the two nuts at the cat. If rust is a big problem you might just let the pipe sag a little, say 1/4", and hang it with wire to keep pressure off the cat. You might hold off on that until some other things are first checked but it wouldn't hurt to be spraying those nuts for the day you have to remove them. Have you ever run Seafoam to clean the injectors?

[jimdigs]

I believe you should be checking compression like dalebwilson suggested and making sure you have no hidden vacuum hose leaks, and bolts are tight on both manifolds. An exhaust leak around the O2 sensor can affect its performance. You can loosen your exhaust pipe at the manifold to check for restriction but it's more trouble than the two nuts at the cat. If rust is a big problem you might just let the pipe sag a little, say 1/4", and hang it with wire to keep pressure off the cat. You might hold off on that until some other things are first checked but it wouldn't hurt to be spraying those nuts for the day you have to remove them. Have you ever run Seafoam to clean the injectors?

Yep, I have used a couple cans of seafoam over the last few months. I will spray those bolts with PB blaster and I'll get a compression kit from autozone, they rent em out to ya. Probably will have to wait til the weekend. I'll report back. I did put a new air filter in toady and that seemed to help a little. The car will actually move when I push the gas down now in 5th with the new filter. Still doggie but better. I thought the one I had in there wasn't that bad but when I looked it over it was pretty dirty.

[dalebwilson]

Jim, glad the air filter helped. If you have access to one, hook up a vacuum gauge to your engine and monitor for a while. It will tell you a lot about the health of you engine. I have a vac gauge permanently installed on my car and monitor it daily. I also use it to maximize fuel mileage while driving. With the engine warm and idling, you should see between 14-22 inches of vacuum. Your engine is nothing more than a large air pump. The vac guage can help diagnose condition of piston rings, valves, ignition timing and fuel delivery.

[zoom zoom]

Following this thread Jim, don't give up! I'm rootin for ya! Interested in the compression check results! Dont forget to hold the throttle wot on a warm engine when you do it.

[jimdigs]

Jim, glad the air filter helped. If you have access to one, hook up a vacuum gauge to your engine and monitor for a while. It will tell you a lot about the health of you engine. I have a vac gauge permanently installed on my car and monitor it daily. I also use it to maximize fuel mileage while driving. With the engine warm and idling, you should see between 14-22 inches of vacuum. Your engine is nothing more than a large air pump. The vac guage can help diagnose condition of piston rings, valves, ignition timing and fuel delivery.

Dale, should I do the vacuum test before the compression test? I will have to see if autozone has a vacuum test for loan.

[jimdigs]

Following this thread Jim, don't give up! I'm rootin for ya! Interested in the compression check results! Dont forget to hold the throttle wot on a warm engine when you do it.

Hey Zoom, thanks for the encouragement. Do you mean after I warm the engine up, pull the spark plugs, connect the compression gauge, when I turn the car over a few cranks I should keep the throttle wide open?

[dalebwilson]

Jim, To mee, it doesnt matter which sequence. If it were mine, I would want to know compression on each cylinder (dry and wet) and vacuum as well. You can pick a vacuum guage for cheap and keep it to use again and again.

[jimdigs]

Which vacuum hose would be the best to use? thanks

[dalebwilson]

http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-93547.html

Vacuum Gauge Engine Performance Testing

A vacuum gauge shows the difference between outside atmospheric pressure and the amount of vacuum present in the intake manifold. The pistons in the engine serve as suction pumps and the amount of vacuum they create is affected by the related actions of:
# Piston rings
# Valves
# Ignition system
# Fuel control system
# Other parts affecting the combustion process (emission devices, etc.).

Each has a characteristic effect on vacuum and you judge their performance by watching variations from normal. It is important to judge engine performance by the general location and action of the needle on a vacuum gauge, rather than just by a vacuum reading. Gauge readings that may be found are as follows:

Normal Engine Operation

At idling speed, an engine at sea level should show a steady vacuum reading between 14" and 22" HG. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause vacuum to drop below 5" then rebound to 23" or more.

General Ignition Troubles Or Sticking Valves

With the engine idling, continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. Check the spark plugs, spark plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may be sticking valves.

Vacuum readings at idle much lower than normal can indicate leakage through intake manifold gaskets, manifold-to-carburetor gaskets, vacuum brakes or the vacuum modulator. Low readings could also be very late valve timing or worn piston rings.

Exhaust Back Pressure

Starting with the engine at idle, slowly increase engine speed to 3,000 RPM, engine vacuum should be equal to or higher than idle vacuum at 3,000 RPM. If vacuum decreases at higher engine RPM's, an excessive exhaust back pressure is probably present.

Cylinder Head Gasket Leakage

With the engine Idling, the vacuum gauge pointer will drop sharply, every time the leak occurs. The drop will be from the steady reading shown by the pointer to a reading of 10" to 12" Hg or less.

If the leak Is between two cylinders, the drop will be much greater. You can determine the location of the leak by compression tests. Fuel Control System Troubles

All other systems in an engine must be functioning properly before you check the fuel control system as a cause for poor engine performance. If the pointer has a slow floating motion of 4 to 5 inches - you should check the fuel control.

[jimdigs]

Thanks for the link Daleb, I was about to spend $25 for the vacuum tester. We have a harbor freight in town and they have one in stock. Appreciate that. What is the best vacuum line to connect the tester to? Thanks again, Jim

[dalebwilson]

You want to connect the hose as close as possible to the intake manifold/head area. There is a small 1/4" port in the manifold on the drivers side near the firewall that I used.

[dalebwilson]

Just FYi. When my 2 exhaust valves were burnt, my idle was erratic at 12 inches vacuum. After I rebuilt the head assembly and replaced the valves, it idles steady now at 22 inches.

[jimdigs]

It was rainy and cold today. My car did not like it at all. Ran doggier than ever. Is this any indication of what might be wrong with this car o'mine? Picked up my vacuum tester today ready to see what it tells me. I know I have had a sticky valve so I may have a bouncy needle on the gage. Will let ya know when I do the test. Thanks for all the help.