Tested tps with multimeter according to these instructions....

[jimdigs]

Terrible video but here is my vacuum result... Bouncing around between 17 and 18. I thought it might jump around because I knew I had some lifter issues, tapping and what not. So not the healthiest engine but what does this mean? When I flicked the accelerator it would respond properly..go down to zero and then back above 25 then settle back down to 17/18. I then kept the throttle down for awhile with high rpms, was hoping the gauge would slowly drop showing a clogged exhaust but the gauge stayed right where you see it. What ya think?

[jimdigs]

An update on the video...the video was taken when the engine wasn't truly warmed up. I let the engine warm up and then put the gauge back on. The reading stayed at 18 but bounced more than what the video shows. Not more than an inch but it was a steady rhythmic bounce. I could hear my tappet and it was bouncing to that sound. Also when I rev the throttle and let go the needle does go to zero but not above 25 like I stated above but just above the green area on the gauge. Just to be more specific.

[dalebwilson]

Not too bad in my opinion. Shows that your engine is in fair condition with normal wear. Of course you already knew about the valve/tappet issue. Glad your cat converter is not clogged. Check your compression next and you can determine what each cylinder is doing.

[jimdigs]

Will do, maybe today or Sunday. So the vacuum test doesn't show anything in your opinion that would be causing my loss of power and bad MPG? Maybe adjust the distributor some?

[dalebwilson]

I cannot see any definitive evidence of low power or mileage by looking at the video. I have seen folks adjust their ignition timing by looking at the optimal reading on the vacuum gauge. You can try that but it is not the standard procedure for these cars. The correct procedure is to:

-Ground the ST1 self test plug with the engine off and then crank engine
-Warm up the engine to normal operating temp
-Ensure idle is around 700 RPM (adjust air bleed idle screw on top of EFI intake if needed)
-Set ignition timing to 10BTDC
-Remember idle RPM affects ignition timing and ignition timing also affects idle RPM

Don't forget to check your cylinder compression as well.

[jimdigs]

So I did the compression test and here are my results.... #1=145 #2=120 #3=145 #4=115 So is this bad news? This is a dry test.

[zoom zoom]

Not bad, but definitely not too good either. Should be 175-215 for a b3 iirc. I did a dry test on a 215,000 mi b3 and it was 175-178, then i had a 90k engine that was 185---- run it till she blows!

I did a head gasket job on a 170k aspire b3, and right after, it was 210-215 on all cylinders. Thats after a .02" shave and 3 way valve job.

[dalebwilson]

With those low and inconsistent numbers, it could definitely be affecting your power. Add a few drops of oil to each cylinder and retest. This will show whether it is rings or valves causing low compression.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jimdigs]

I should of done the oil thing but I already took the tester back to O'Reilys for a refund. I'm guessing the valves because of the flutter from the vacuum test and the fact that I hear some tapping going on. I guess I'll never get the MPGs outta this festiva which is the only reason I like owning them. Sigh!!

[dalebwilson]

Are you using oil or seeing blue smoke during normal driving? What about at startup in the morning or idle....any blue smoke there?

[jimdigs]

Are you using oil or seeing blue smoke during normal driving? What about at startup in the morning or idle....any blue smoke there?

Using a little oil but no blue smoke while driving or at idle. Only smoke I have is when its cold out and its not bluish at all. Just white and puffy.

[jimdigs]

Is there still a way to get better mpg outta this car even with the compression issues?

[dalebwilson]

Jim, How fast do you drive it?

[jimdigs]

As fast as the law permits. LOL Pretty much true though. Except when I'm on the highway everyday on the way to work I hang around the 60/65 mph instead of 70. How much difference would going back to 12inch tires make? I've heard arguments both ways, larger better mpg on highway, smaller better mpg in city.

[dalebwilson]

Jim, I have compression numbers similar to yours and some obvious blow-by. I drive 190 miles per day to and from work. I drive up and over 2 mountains each day. If I drive 60-65, I average 43MPG. If I drive 55, I have seen 50MPG's. I have a stock B3 with 12" tires. Air pressure is critical on your tires as well as wheel alignment. Learning how to control your right foot is the real secret. I watch my vacuum gauge and stay in the green (12-20 in vac.) I also add a few ounces of MMO per tank of gas. It works for me. Wind is also a factor on these little cars. My mileage decreases some when its windy as these cars were not designed to be aerodynamic. Ambient temperature plays into effect as well. The little B3 runs better during warm temps. Just my 2 cents.