Help with a weber swap

[txranger14]

OK, got the carb in, got the adapter and egr block off plate and all of that stuff. Now i need help in figuring out what hoses go where, what to do about the wire taken from the alternator to the carb, and what wire will power up my carb. I'll try and add some pics as to what ive done so far and the mock up i have of it at the moment.

[txranger14]

http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/jagers20/library/?sort=3&page=1

[txranger14]

ok, i put the egr block off plate on. can i remove that entire egr assembly? and just plug up the port on the firewall?

[bravekozak]

You can unplug the computer completely. The only signal remaining is the barometric pressure to the ignition module in the distributor, which you don't need in Texas. Bye, bye EGR. Toss it. It only reduces mileage. Report back on how it runs without all that garbage.
You only need one vacuum line for vacuum advance to the distributor. Plug up the rest of the vacuum ports on the intake manifold. Replace your gas cap with a vented one and then toss out the charcoal canister too.

[Cannibeasty]

Does unplugging the ECU negatively impact anything on the car? Also is there any sensors I need to keep w/ my swapped weber carb? Thanks in advance

[MasterTec]

Mine is still plugged in because I wanted to keep a functional EGR and EVAP system. NO check engine light.

[drddan]

Does unplugging the ECU negatively impact anything on the car? Also is there any sensors I need to keep w/ my swapped weber carb? Thanks in advance

Read the post directly above your post. It answers your question. You don't need sensors with Weber. They were for the original FEEDBACK carb, which the Weber is not a feedback carb.

[zoe60]

Hook your vacuum advance to the vacuum fitting on the new carb by the choke. Y the line and feed both ports on the disty. I think any other lines can be plugged up. I kept what I needed to keep the check engine light off. (MAP, O2 sensor, etc.)

[Cannibeasty]

Currently, I have my vacuum advance tee'd into the vacuum port on the carb, a vacuum to the brake booster, and vacuum to the pcv valve. Everything else is capped. What in all do I need still connected to not have a CEL (other than removing the bulb)? It's kind of annoying driving at night. Also thanks for bearing with my dumb questions, I'm 20 and am doing all of this for the first time so I'm still trying to figure out the little detail. Gotta love learning how to jet a carb!

[drddan]

Gotta love learning how to jet a carb!

^ Yeah! It is fun! Don't be afraid to experiment! That's the best part. I just pulled the bulb in the dash. I ain't got nothing' hooked up
You will need the O2 sensor I would think, to help get rid of the light, but me, naw, i'd dump all that crap. It aint gonna get used, why have it?

[zoe60]

You can hook a vacuum line from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor in the middle of the firewall for one thing. See if that makes the CEL go out and I will double check what all I did to mine when I get a chance. You can reach up behind the dash and remove the CEL bulb and then you don't have to fool with any of that stuff. That way if you decide to install an idle up solenoid, the vacuum switches on the dash will still work when you increase the electric load or turn on the AC.

[Cannibeasty]

Awesome, that'd be great! Also pictures always help (I'm a visual guy)

[denguy]

When we did this swap on an 88 a red wire ran from the back of the alternator up to the automatic electric choke on the Ford Holley Weber Escort carb we used. It worked this way for a while, if you watched, the carb did not stay choked for long after starting and soon opened wide. That feature quit working not long afterwards. So I took the easy way out and got an inexpensive manual choke conversion kit from NAPA and began using that. With a little practice it was all good.

[Hot_Wheels]

Put a aftermarke afr gauge in to keep an eye on your afr and that way you can utilize your o2 sensor.

[drddan]

When we did this swap on an 88 a red wire ran from the back of the alternator up to the automatic electric choke on the Ford Holley Weber Escort carb we used. It worked this way for a while, if you watched, the carb did not stay choked for long after starting and soon opened wide. That feature quit working not long afterwards. So I took the easy way out and got an inexpensive manual choke conversion kit from NAPA and began using that. With a little practice it was all good.

Heh heh ...all you would have had to do was use one of the 12 volt "key-on" power wires, from one of the old sensors, and wire it to the weber choke. The wire from the Festy alt is only 7 volts! The weber choke is a 12 volt choke.
The weber choke requires 12 volts to work properly ... and you wouldn't have had to pay for, and install a manual choke