Help!!! I have a 1990 LPlus. I had the alternator replaced back in November and since then have had to have it replaced 4 times. Each time it starts to squeal and then dies. I jump start the car and it will run until the battery dies. Last one lasted about a few weeks. Just picked it up last Monday ran great until tonight when it started squealing bad again. It is going to die again I know. I have no idea why it would keep burning up alternators. The car had 210,000 on it. When it is not having an alternator issue the car runs awesome! I gave had it almost 10 years got it from my father in law. I gave never gad any issues like this before. Frustrated since this is my daily driver.... HELP?! It does have air. Not currently working replaced the compressor a few years ago but haven't got it fully functioning.
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6 alternators in 6 months!!!
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Are they mcautoparts store alternators? (Autozone, Advanced, etc)
I hear bad things about Autozone alternators, I bet Advanced is just as bad. I know Muleskinner here told me he had a alternator from autozone that he had to replace multiple times, till he got sick of exchanging them, and just went and bought one from a smaller local chain parts store, and never had a problem after that.
I can't really see how anything outside the alternator could burn them up without you noticing some severe electrical issues with the car.Last edited by TorqueEffect; 05-05-2014, 08:22 PM.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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I will check with the guy who is installing them. I forgot where he is buying them I am going to take it off and have it rebuilt locally. I am tired of this. He even went to a pricier one the last time that cost me an extra $50. I cannot figure out what else would be causing this.... I live this car but can't keep this up.....
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Originally posted by philnc72 View PostI will check with the guy who is installing them. I forgot where he is buying them I am going to take it off and have it rebuilt locally. I am tired of this. He even went to a pricier one the last time that cost me an extra $50. I cannot figure out what else would be causing this.... I live this car but can't keep this up.....
That would also rule out the fact he may be trying to screw you over by putting junk alternators in your Festy. Most garages get their parts from places like Autozone, Advanced, and NAPA through commercial accounts. I know this since I used to work retail at a Autozone, and I would deliver parts to, and pick up core returns from many different garages around town.Last edited by TorqueEffect; 05-05-2014, 08:50 PM.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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Make sure the pulleys are all lined up and perpendicular to the crankshaft. Also check the alternator bracket. Put a straight edge across the crank pulley face and the alternator pulley face. There should be a four point touch. Good luck.Last edited by bravekozak; 05-05-2014, 09:13 PM.
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WHAT failed on the Alt? You didnt say,like the bearings? Are you sure your not overdrawing the Alt? Whats your amp draw when its running?Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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I am assuming it's the bearings since it's squealing.
The belt has to track straight and true, with no wobble.
Also make sure you that you have the proper tension on the belt.Last edited by bravekozak; 05-06-2014, 05:11 AM.
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Sounds like your mechanic is overtightening the belt and ruining the bearings. One bad alternator once in a while might be reasonable, but not 6 in a row. Check the belt tension yourself by laying a straight edge along the top of the belt and push down in the middle with a ruler to measure deflection. Should be about 5/8" I think but can't look it up as I am on a computer at the public library. Will try to remember to look it up when I get home or maybe someone else will post in meantime.Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.
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Once you replace it this time, take it to Autozone or one of the Mcparts stores and get it load checked.
You may have something overloading the alt. Also, clean the pulley on the crankshaft with a brush to make it a little rough so it pulls better and the belt doesn't slip.
I'm thinking the deflection should be about 1/2 inch in the middle of the longest side of the belt.Jerry
Team Lightning
Owner of Team Lightning
90 L "Peewee" B6D. Bought new May 16,1990
92 L Thunder BP G5M-R Turbo B6T electronics. Jan 2016 FOTM winner SOLD
93 L Lightning. BP
Not a user of drugs or alcohol, Just addicted to Festiva's
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For belt deflection the Haynes manual recommends 0.31" to 0.35" (8mm to 9mm) for new belts and 0.35" to 0.39" (9mm to 10mm)
for used belts. 3/8" is 0.375" so I use that (not 5/8" as I typed above). Team's 1/2" above would likely be fine too. Just don't let it get any
slacker or the belt may slip reducing the charge going into the battery (if so the belt will usually "chirp" which you can hear).
If the belt too slack it won't charge at all, the battery will run down, and the battery charging warning light on the dash will come on.
Hope this brings an end to your alternator buying spree.Last edited by WmWatt; 05-06-2014, 12:05 PM.Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.
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