cv axle replace

[vinelandidiot13]

ok so i was told cv joint is bad and to replace axle got new one just wondering how hard it is to do and any tips for doing it

[SiliconSoul]

Hardest part of the job always seems to be getting the axle nut off and getting the axle out of the transmission.

I personally use MAPP gas to get the axle nut nice and hot, then I use an impact gun to work off the nut.

Do you have an auto or manual transmission?

[vinelandidiot13]

manual

[Bert]

Get that big axle nut loose first. This takes considerable effort sometimes. If the wheel turns while still sitting on the ground it may be necessary to have a second body stand on the brakes. 1/2 drive (minimum) and a long bar. Then you'll have to undo a tie rod end, and maybe even the control arm, so as to be able to swing away the knuckle enough to get the driveaxle out. A goodly tap here and there to free the axle is often useful. First time you do this is nerve-wracking (how hard can I tap something before breaking anything) but subsequent jobs will speed up and improve your confidence.

[SiliconSoul]

^^ - What he said. Being a manual, your c/v shaft is going to spin when you try to remove the axle nut. Best bet is to get it nice an hot and then use a long breaker bar to try and get it to go.

Not to discourage you, but sometimes they can really get seized on. I had one Festiva that had it stuck so bad I needed to take it to a local auto machine shop (The whole hub with the axle still in it!) and had to have them remove it. Even with oxy-acetylene and a 1250lb impact gun, the miserable thing didn't come off until it was glowing bright red! Just make sure you have a backup plan in case things go wrong! Good luck.

[scitzz]

Easy way to remove the tie rod end:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eywQFjKw52M

[WmWatt]

Just jack up the car, remove the tire, wedge a pry bar or similar between two wheel lug bolts, and put the other end of the pry bar on the ground to keep the wheel from turning. Then use a large socket and strong socket driver (I use a T-bar) and a pipe extension (I use part of a bicycle frame) to unscrew the axle nut. You don't need to unstake the axle because turning it will deform the part of the nut that is compressed. I have photos of the whole operation on www.photobucket.com under username ag384fb. The axle nut is torqued to 116-180 if I remember correctly. You need to torque it to that range when you put it back on. Full body weight.

[SiliconSoul]

Easy way to remove the tie rod end:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eywQFjKw52M

GREAT TIP. This one has saved me soooo much time and frustration!

[bravekozak]

vineland, do a search and read some other threads that detail the process.
I have never had a problem removing CV axles. I use the ring the bell method to center the circlip. They pop out like butter. Just remember not to take them both out at the same time or the gear will drop inside your transmission and you will have to take that apart too. Good luck with your searches.

[homemech]

i was having trouble getting the hub nut off and found this thread so do i turn it anti clockwise to remove it coz this nut is rock solid

[Bert]

i was having trouble getting the hub nut off and found this thread so do i turn it anti clockwise to remove it coz this nut is rock solid

No sir! Every axle or spindle nut on a Festy (with the exception of the passenger side rear which is reverse thread) is standard counter-clock-wise to remove. Especially at the front these are sometimes on horribly tight and may require heating with a torch or using a really long breaker bar and a durable socket.

[scitzz]

Car on the ground, in gear, and someone on the brake. 6 point socket on the nut with a breaker bar, extended with a long piece of pipe. If the wheel turns before the nut, get some friends to sit on the bumper. You will get it loose one way or another.

[bravekozak]

Problem? No problem.

[Bert]

Problem? No problem.

Perhaps not but then you also have to beg/borrow/steal or buy the expensive 3/4 drive (or 1/2 inch adapter) socket that fits over the driveaxle nut. The beauty of Crapsmen tools is that they are guaranteed forever and whether you use a 4 foot piece of pipe over the ratchet is of no real concern as long as you attempt do this on a day that the nearby Sears Store is open, and you've protected your knuckles from damage while trying to do it.

[scitzz]

I had a pretty obstinate one on Muleskinners car, we used Tominmos 3/4 inch breaker bar with 1/2 inch adapter, seems a worthwhile investment. Had another just a couple weeks ago I posted here, I wanted to buy the 3/4 but couldn't source one locally. Although I had broken one breaker bar, I went back to sears and tried again. I got it.