Drivers Side Rear Hub won't come off...

[ajbremer]

I have a seized bearing in my drivers side rear hub. I've tried to get it off for a few days now and haven't been able to remove it. I've used a slide-hammer and that wouldn't get it to budge. Please check out my video that explains my problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJeEn05_z_8

[SiliconSoul]

Huh... that's strange. Usually when mine don't come off nicely all they need is a couple of good taps on the drum with a BFH (Big Freakin' Hammer) an it usually lets go. The fact you are using a slide hammer and it's still not letting go is pretty wild. I would try using some major heat (MAP Gas at the minimum) around the Drum inner ring until it is extremely toasty, then try the slide hammer again. Try and get the outer metal to expand off the shaft.

The fact your able to spin it means the brakes are off. Unless it has somehow worn a grove in the drum and is locked in place that way? I would say you just need to hit it harder! Whatever you do though, don't damage the spindle!!! Don't try and cut / grind the bearing while it is on the shaft.

[TorqueEffect]

Probably welded itself to the spindle.

I have had this happen before, only fix was to get another one.

[1990new]

As a last resort, and If you think you are going to end up having to get a replacement spindle anyway (if you don't have access to a cutting torch),
I would use an angle grinder with a steel cutting wheel to cut away a section of the drum and then carefully cut into the bearing. You might just be able to salvage it.
Might be worth a try anyway. New replacement drums are readily available and pretty cheap.
You have to have a steady hand and be mighty careful though.

[TheGageinator]

Try a large pulley like a harmonic balancer puller with an impact wrench. with LOTS of penetration fluid.

[Spike]

Hold up, hold up. I had a fully-seized-to-the-spindle drum on the Sprint a couple months back. I beat on it with a hammer for a good 4-5 hours, nothing would move. Harbor Freight sells a "Jaw Puller" for something like $15, and after getting it on just perfectly, it came off with a little bit of work. You might have to bend the backing plate just a tiny bit to get the jaws under the drum. If you have an HF near you, it'd be worth getting that before dealing with a new spindle (and if it doesn't work, HF is very easy to return things to).

Just be careful, get it centered properly, and use even, gentle pressure when turning the puller bolt. You CAN destroy a good spindle with those pullers. Good luck.

-Joe

[1990new]

Hold up, hold up. I had a fully-seized-to-the-spindle drum on the Sprint a couple months back. I beat on it with a hammer for a good 4-5 hours, nothing would move. Harbor Freight sells a "Jaw Puller" for something like $15, and after getting it on just perfectly, it came off with a little bit of work. You might have to bend the backing plate just a tiny bit to get the jaws under the drum. If you have an HF near you, it'd be worth getting that before dealing with a new spindle (and if it doesn't work, HF is very easy to return things to).

Just be careful, get it centered properly, and use even, gentle pressure when turning the puller bolt. You CAN destroy a good spindle with those pullers. Good luck.

-Joe

Great idea.. It's worth a try. I have one of those pullers that you are talking about, found it on a sale table (minus the box) at Harbor Freight and paid $9 for it a couple of months ago. That thing should do the trick.

[WmWatt]

Just for information, some auto parts stores have a tool loaner program. I borrowed a 3-prong puller a few times, a brake line flange maker, and an Oxygen sensor socket. Take some plastic money because the way they do it here is to sell you the tool and give you a refund when you return it.

[ajbremer]

Thanks WmWatt.

Well, I finally got the hub off. I used a friends SnapOn Jaw Puller Kit. It was very hard and I almost ruined his tool. I tried using the massive 3 jaw puller and it just wouldn't come off. Then I used the 2 jaw, tightened it up to the point of ruining the tool and it still didn't come off. I was about to give up but I thought I would hit it a few times and turn the crank just a touch more, then...bang! It popped off!

Now I need a new spindle because the seized bearing messed it up. I have some more vids and pics I'll post soon. Thanks.

[Spike]

That's the reason I use HF stuff. Worst case scenario, it breaks and I get my money back. Snap-On snaps, you're out a week's paycheck.

Anyway! Glad you got the drum off, too bad you need a new spindle.

[ajbremer]

Anybody got a drivers side rear spindle?

[1990new]

Did you try cutting off the bearing to see if you could salvage it.
I pulled four spindles last year but sold them all. The Festivas have been really scarce in the salvage yards around here lately.

[WmWatt]

Often all you have to do is apply pressure with the tool, then give the part a good whack. There is more of an incentive to break free when under stress. Some people will keep turning the crank on a tool until something distorts. Impact seems to work better for me.

[ajbremer]

The bearing and everything came off the spindle. The surface of the spindle (where the outer bearing rotates on) is very marred up. I've been trying to figure out what size wrench to use to get those 4 bolts that hold the spindle on. A 14 mm seemed to be right but it's just a little lose. There seems to be no way to get into the back of bolts and grab the nuts, those nuts are inside a channel.

[Pu241]

I've been trying to figure out what size wrench to use to get those 4 bolts that hold the spindle on. A 14 mm seemed to be right but it's just a little lose. There seems to be no way to get into the back of bolts and grab the nuts, those nuts are inside a channel.

Stop right there!
The "bolts" are not bolts they are splined and set into the backing plate.
You have to remove the nuts on the back of the plate to removed the spindle.
One of the nuts my require the removal of the lower strut bolt to get to it.