Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

10 Amp Engine fuse on an 89 FI

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • nitrofarm
    replied
    Soooo after looking at these while laying sideways It looks like the only other thing that 10 amp is protecting, compared to the Later models is the Field Winding? I would look real close at that BK/W wire at the Alt plug. Its either the "Run" Coil in the F/P Relay or that BK/W wire to Alt. The car starts so its not the "Start" Coil in the F/P Relay. My First step would be disconnect that Alt harness & do the "Fuel Pump Test". If it passes that will eliminate the Run Coil & the Main Relay. Then only thing left is the Alt harness,what do you guys think? Thanks for posting the pics Tool & Dale ! Nitro-

    Leave a comment:


  • nitrofarm
    replied
    Originally posted by tooldude View Post
    Strange, I sent a worded email which you got and 4 separate pics you didn't. I'll try once more, if that won't work, I'd have to mail copies, if the interest on this even holds out. Funny, not a peep out of gunner. Maybe he stuck a relay on already and headed down the road.
    Maybe he took it to a a shop. But maybe he's just busy?

    Leave a comment:


  • dalebwilson
    replied






    Leave a comment:


  • tooldude
    replied
    Strange, I sent a worded email which you got and 4 separate pics you didn't. I'll try once more, if that won't work, I'd have to mail copies, if the interest on this even holds out. Funny, not a peep out of gunner. Maybe he stuck a relay on already and headed down the road.

    Leave a comment:


  • dalebwilson
    replied
    There were no attachments on the email.

    Leave a comment:


  • tooldude
    replied
    Originally posted by dalebwilson View Post
    Check your inbox
    I tried sending pics when I got back home, hope they work out.

    Leave a comment:


  • dalebwilson
    replied
    Check your inbox

    Leave a comment:


  • tooldude
    replied
    That one particular part of the circuitry doesn't go through the 10A fuse. I can't get the pictures to post into this box. I need to instructions on how to do that. Someone send me an email address and post these pictures for us please.

    Leave a comment:


  • nitrofarm
    replied
    Ok, I still would like to see him do a simple Fuel Pump Test. That would eliminate the Fuel Pump Relay & Pump.

    Leave a comment:


  • tooldude
    replied
    My printer/scanner broke a while back. My wife's phone is a stupid Windows phone, don't know if it will do it, I'll check when she gets in later. I bet someone has the 1989 EVTM & could scan it, pgs. 40 & 41.

    Leave a comment:


  • nitrofarm
    replied
    Tool please scan and post the Schematic you are refering to. Thanks, Nitro

    Leave a comment:


  • tooldude
    replied
    Nitro, he said it's a 1989 FI on his first post and I'm looking at the 1989 EVTM. It's different-the B/W wire is running both relays and the FP coil for startup apparently doesn't kick out after startup as 90-93. Both coils run all the time so the FP never drops out temporarily if the VAF shuts on deceleration as explained in the FSM. From 90 - 93 they used the RC (resistor/capacitor) setup for that so as not to run both coils. I'm not favoring any possibility but pointing out the odds of 2 FP coils to 1 Main coil. As you said, the coil could be shorted, applies to all 3 coils. BTW, the jumper test only tests the 1 coil that the VAF controls, missing the one used for cranking. Actually, if you see the schematic for '89 you won't need my explanation. I try to offer ideas to avoid throwing part$ at problems; personal opinion but even wrong ideas cause thinking that can lead to solutions. Printed messages with no tone or inflection are tough too, and I'm not sure what is considered too large a post. Condensing them too much limits explanations.

    Leave a comment:


  • nitrofarm
    replied
    Tool you are misunderstand what I'm saying. That 10 amp is only protecting that Main relay. And if you suspect the Fuel Pump Relay you so much my do a Fuel pump test with the jumper by the brake booster. No need to check resistance etc. Nitro

    Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • tooldude
    replied
    The fuel pump relay is in that circuit also, there are 2 relays in it, running in parallel. Also, the FP relay starting winding is not depicted as dropping out as with the other year models. I believe that is correct, as it is shown without the RC components of the later models, and the way it's shown in the schematic it could only be removed mechanically with another set of contact points-seems unlikely & not depicted. Both relays are running on full system voltage as the resistor in the main relay is in parallel with the coil which splits amperage not voltage. As that same B/W wire feeds into the V Reg circuitry in the alternator, I believe the resistor is a typical clamping resistor as used on coils to protect the solid state circuitry from voltage spikes off the coil. The FP relay has 2 windings and twice the chance of a bad coil. A simple current/resistance check at the relays should catch a bad one.

    Leave a comment:


  • nitrofarm
    replied
    Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
    Try changing the main relay. The main relay is different than a regular relay. It has a resistor across the solenoid.
    Brave is correct and after looking at the circuit I'm thinking that relay is designed to run @ 9 V. If the relay has failed internally,it may not be creating ANY resistance.Then the Main relay may be drawing to much current once you STOP cranking. Thats why I'm thinking it starts, then blows. I personally would have replaced it as soon as I saw its really the only thing in that circuit. But I'm glad this thread is here because I would never even looked that close at the schematic to see the resistor was there!

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X