I just don't get it?!

[muleskinner]

Had an oil change in Blue 3 weeks ago. Had to put a quart of oil in it every about 100 - 150 miles or so. I drained the oil (5w30 full synthetic) and it was black as tar. I put new oil (regular 10w30 & 1 quart of Lucas oil) in about 3 days ago. Car would smoke after sitting over night, then stop after that. Then smoke again the next morning, which I don't understand, I thought Lucas oil was supposed to help seal things in the engine??

On top of that I drained the oil today after 3 days and about 150 miles & the oil was black as tar again. What the heck?? What is going on here? LOL!

Thanks in advance.

[william]

Was the engine neglected in the past sounds like a sludged up engine.

[itstock]

Take off the valve cover and see what's going on. Clean out what you can. Run some seafoam through the engine.

[zoom zoom]

The crankshaft holds alot of oil, that with the other nooks and crannies that hold oil, the oil change will eventually get diluted with the old oil and turn it black if the old oil was left in long enough to turn black. If you do regular changes eventually it will start commimg clean. A fresh rebuilt/new engine takes more oil than you would do during an oil change.

[Damkid]

Lucas oil can't repair damage already done to the seals in the engine

If the valves seals are toast (which would cause smoking on start up) then Lucas won't make the seals like new again

[cburkett65]

You can do a compression test and a leak down test. I would guess you are burning the oil mostly because with that much leaking externally you would see it easily.
It could be leaking down the valve seals but if going black that quickly seems likely combustion gases are getting in the oil.

[skswig62]

Oil turning black that quick is going to be a head gasket problem and exhaust in the oil. Or a badly sludged engine, Do a sea foam treatment and a filter change about every 500 miles for a while and see if that helps. Might want to try a head gasket sealer that goes in radiator. If no water is in the oil or vise versa it might not be too late to seal the head gasket and keep it running a while longer

[muleskinner]

Got the engine from a JY and did seals and gasket replacements before putting the engine in.

After all of the suggestions, I would think it's a badly sludged engine. What do you all think?

[shadetree]

Change the oil several times and do a good three day piston soak rocking hard on the last day . Should clean out okay , works for me .

[n5554t]

I believe using synthetic oil in an older engine is bad because it cleans and that means all kind of leaks can start. Correct me but Lucas and good non-detergent oil should work for most older engines.

[200KGPGTP]

Oil turning black that quick is going to be a head gasket problem and exhaust in the oil. Or a badly sludged engine, Do a sea foam treatment and a filter change about every 500 miles for a while and see if that helps. Might want to try a head gasket sealer that goes in radiator. If no water is in the oil or vise versa it might not be too late to seal the head gasket and keep it running a while longer

For the love of god, do not sludge up your cooling system with any sealing crap.

I believe using synthetic oil in an older engine is bad because it cleans and that means all kind of leaks can start. Correct me but Lucas and good non-detergent oil should work for most older engines.

If you change to synthetic and notice new leaks in an old engine, THE SEALS WERE ALREADY BAD. Just sludged up enough not to leak.

I run synthetic in anything I own. Cleans stuff up nicely. If new leaks start, I replace the bad seals and live with a clear mind that I now have a clean, well sealed, well lubricated engine.

Fun fact: A half quart or so of ATF will do wonders cleaning built up sludge

[bhearts]

I usually just prefer to dump a quart or two of diesel in and run it like that for a day. Then drain the oil

[n5554t]

The worst engine design ever was the VW 1.8 Turbo. Not enough oil to keep things cool and the turbo baked the oil and passages. I've had two of these and discovered Seafoam used prior to a top rebuilt really cleans the sludge. I have used Lucas in everything (internal combustion) I've owned since 1998 or 99. That includes a Cessna, John Deere, two corvettes and various other cars. True, if parts are broken then no additive will make a repair. My C4 had 109,000 miles and was starting to puff smoke when sitting for a couple days and then starting, also after a long trip and stopping at a red light the pressure would drop to or slightly lower than the factory specs. After the Lucas and 103,000 miles later; no smoke and oil pressure at or slightly above factory, even after a four or five hour trip. Lucas decreased my oil burn in the Cessna 172 from 1 quart every 5 hours (Lycoming states this is in tolerance) to 1 quart every 19 hours.

My comment regarding synthetic oil, sludge and oil consumption was not intended to imply that synthetic oil is bad, just be aware if converted after years of using non or detergent oil. In fact, Mercedes states that using "new types" of oil does cause leaks (older vehicles) because the engines were not designed to use partial or full synthetic's.

As for a bad seal....it's not bad if there are no leaks, just old and cleaning them will facilitate leaks. Maybe it's just me but if the oil pressure is within tolerance and no leaks, why replace them until necessary and I'm not discounting preventative maintenance. After all, it's just a preference or an opinion.

[jason_]

The worst engine design ever was the VW 1.8 Turbo. Not enough oil to keep things cool and the turbo baked the oil and passages. .

Any turbo setup will do that.

Killing the engine instantly when parking after a long haul/working the engine will coke the oil in the hot housing.

And the The newer diesels that do regeneration with dpf will get to nearly 1400*F just after the turbo in the dpf.

Some, maybe all, with dpf, CR's shoot one more time during exhaust stroke to encourage soot burn off when a regeneration is needed. Only takes a few mins. But the heat when interrupted is tremendous.

I've forced myself into the habit of letting things come down to 400f, (3-5mins of idling) before killing the key.





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