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Pretty sure I know the answer but thought I would ask anyway...

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  • Pretty sure I know the answer but thought I would ask anyway...

    I believe this rotor is to rusty to try and be cleaned up and used. I have had two of em laying around for about 4 years. I bought em new thinking I would put them on until I found out about the pressed on bearing situation. So they have sat in my garage rusting away. Think this one section is to rusted?

  • #2
    Nah...just get em turned, they should look newish. Or...put a wire wheel on a drill to clean em up.
    Last edited by avitsefdrof; 09-28-2014, 07:27 PM.
    92 GL, 98k
    77 Chevy shortbed

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    • #3
      few hard stops and they will be shiny
      N3WBI3

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      • #4
        I've picked up worse looking ones out of a junkyard and had em turned and they worked fine.
        90 L plus 180,000 miles and counting.

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        • #5
          Good to know. I thought for sure that everyone would say that they were too far gone. Glad I posted em. I'll have em cleaned up and when I do the drivers side wheel bearings, cuz they are going bad now too, will flop one on.

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          • #6
            mine are warped, scord, and worn way past replacement oh and when you touch the rust they crumble haha I still drive like that until I get the berrings and the drilled and sloted rotors to put on at school. so I think yours are fine.

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            • #7
              I've drove on rotors until they begin to collapse and crack. You could see the vent ribs show as high shiny spots where the pad glides over.



              Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

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              • #8
                I'd rock em'

                1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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                • #9
                  The pics show 2/3 of the surface is really nice, with the cross hatching still visible. It is hard to tell how bad the rust is in the other 1/3, but it seems likely it is no worse than a bit of pitting. If you can spend the bucks get them turned, but I would just hit them with a wire wheel to get the surface rust off, install 'em, and test drive it for a week or so. After they have been used take a look at them, to see how deep the pitting really is and if most of it cleaned off.

                  I put on brand new shiny rotors on my RX7, race them two weekends until they look like real crap, with heat checks, deep groves and uneven surfaces, but they still work fine, until they split all the way through a weekend or two later. (I usually take them off before that, but not always. They work when split too, though they have a hella thump action till they get hot!)

                  For the street, some surface pitting should not be too much of a problem, unless they are really, really rusted deep into the rotor.
                  Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
                  Icetiva-3-race-car-build
                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299

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