I believe this rotor is to rusty to try and be cleaned up and used. I have had two of em laying around for about 4 years. I bought em new thinking I would put them on until I found out about the pressed on bearing situation. So they have sat in my garage rusting away. Think this one section is to rusted?
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Pretty sure I know the answer but thought I would ask anyway...
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Nah...just get em turned, they should look newish. Or...put a wire wheel on a drill to clean em up.Last edited by avitsefdrof; 09-28-2014, 07:27 PM.92 GL, 98k
77 Chevy shortbed
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I'd rock em'
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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The pics show 2/3 of the surface is really nice, with the cross hatching still visible. It is hard to tell how bad the rust is in the other 1/3, but it seems likely it is no worse than a bit of pitting. If you can spend the bucks get them turned, but I would just hit them with a wire wheel to get the surface rust off, install 'em, and test drive it for a week or so. After they have been used take a look at them, to see how deep the pitting really is and if most of it cleaned off.
I put on brand new shiny rotors on my RX7, race them two weekends until they look like real crap, with heat checks, deep groves and uneven surfaces, but they still work fine, until they split all the way through a weekend or two later. (I usually take them off before that, but not always. They work when split too, though they have a hella thump action till they get hot!)
For the street, some surface pitting should not be too much of a problem, unless they are really, really rusted deep into the rotor.Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
Icetiva-3-race-car-build
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299
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