spindle nut problem

[dwagner0074]

Hi guys. I have a 93 L that I am doing the brakes on. My dad started this almost 2 years ago, and has lost many parts. I thought I found the spindle nuts at autozone. They look like most I have seen on other posts. When I put them on they seem to have too big of a flange on top, and will not get down to where the hole is to get the cotter pin in. Any thoughts as to what I am doing wrong? Thanks for taking the time to read this.

[Fordverde]

There are two models, one that uses a pin and one that don't. Try to find the correct one for your set up on rockauto or similar.

[dwagner0074]

I saw that in the manual, so there must be 2 different nuts. I can't seem to find the one I need. Thanks, I will do some . More looking.

[batstiva]

There are two different nuts, and then there are two different nuts. lol One left hand thread, one right hand thread. On all of my Festivas the spindle had the hole for the pin, but I never used them on any of my Festivas. What exactly is the problem you are having installing them?

[dwagner0074]

That makes sense. The problem I have is If I don't use the hotter pin, what is to keep the nut from backing off? Thanks

[1990new]

Welcome to the forum.

If you have a hole for a cotter pin, you can use a castle nut instead of a staked spindle nut.
You should also have a washer with a slot tab in the center to go on the slotted spindle.
You can still use the staked nut if there is a slot on your spindle to stake it just tighten it to 18-22 lb-ft to seat the bearing (rotate the brake drum while tightening)
Then loosen the locknut slightly until the drum can be turned by hand (but not so loose that is spins).
You are then supposed to set the bearing preload and for the you are supposed to use an inch pound torque wrench.
You can borrow these from most mcpats stores.
First you need to measure the seal drag.
Do this by installing one lug nut and position the lug so that the lug is at the 12 oclock.
Using your inch pound torque wrench with a 14mm socket on the lug pull the torque wrench until the hub starts to turn and note
the amount of force indicate on the torque gauge at the point that it begins to turn.
You preload 1.3 to 4.3 lb.in So for example if your seal drag measured 2.3 lb-in your preload would be (1.3 + 2.3 = 3.6 to 4.3 + 2.3 = 6.6)
To set, tighten you spindle nut a little then position the stud at 12 oclock and test your preload. In this example torque to about 5.1 inch-pound.
Then use a chisel or punch to stake your nut into the spindle slot or put you cotter pin into the hole and bend to secure it.
Remember the right spindle is normally reverse threads and require a reverse nut.

In reality most people just seat the bearing and set the pre load by guesstimate. But it's up to you.
You just need to make sure the bearing is seated first the loosen it so you hub rotates at least a few turns freely as you spin it with your hand.
Check it after you drive it around the block and if the nut is hot and you wheel does not spin freely it is too tight.

Make sure your ebrake activator/adjuster hinge is not frozen. There is a video link somewhere on the forum that shows how to free it up if it is.

Good luck... and if you don't have a Festiva service manual, it is a very wise investment.

[dwagner0074]

Thank you so much.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

I used to buy oddball metric stuff, such as oval-ended metric-sized woodruff keys, for my 1964 Amphicar from:

http://marylandmetric.com/

Perhaps they have backwards-threaded spindle nuts which will work better.

[MasterTec]

No holes in mine... so I made some.

Just cut a few notches out of the end of the nut... drilled a hole in the spindle and inserted a cotter pin. I used to have to re-torque my rear bearings every coupe weeks otherwise the bearings would be shot after a couple of months. I made this modification over a year ago and they've been fine ever since!

I also don't have to worry about one of my rear wheels passing me on the highway any more!

[dwagner0074]

Lol!! Good idea!