Pinging, power loss and Code 17 in EFI B3

[goaliefergy53]

I have a 1997 Go-4 Interceptor (metermaid trike) that has the same drive train as an Aspire. I'm currently having some issues and looking for some help. When I'm driving up inclines (with gas pedal at least half throttle open) my check engine light will come on. I did the flash code check and it is code 17. I had been meaning to replace my o2 sensor and fine got it swapped out. Unfortunately didn't change anything. When I'm going uphill on a highway, I get loud pinging and feels like engine is losing power. Once things flatten out pinging goes away and motor is peppy (light usually will go out).

I don't think it's an exhaust back pressure issue?

Past recent repairs include: new distributor, spark plugs o2 sensor, starter, fuel filter, fuel pump and evap seals, fuel hoses to the motor and gas cap.

I replaced the fuel filter as maintenance and the hoses as my trunk has a fairly strong fuel odor. Changing the fuel tank seals and hoses didn't rid the smell. I'm going to change out the hoses from the filler neck to the tank today.

Is it a safe guess that whatever is causing the strong odor might be a contributing factor to my hesitation and check light? When I changed the tank seals the internal fuel strainer didn't appear clogged?

Any ideas or helpful tips are greatly appreciated!

[Movin]

Past recent repair means before this symptom? I would make sure the distributor is still okay, not coming apart inside, I do not trust reman stuff but there is little alternative. Check basic ignition timing by factory spec, don't go more than 10 deg hotter depending on your altitude. 4 -6 is usually good from 1000 to 3500 ft.

Check the advance at 3000 rpm. It should not go past 42 deg. This would be with the timing connector returned to normal. Make sure you are using the correct mark and highlight it and the pointer with a paint pen.
If you have to pull number one spark plug and get the piston exactly at top dead center to check the mark.
Check the timing belt marks, make sure you didn't jump one tooth.
Read your plugs and check them for damage, one may be faulty. New parts quality is not what it used to be !
After you get that fuel problem fixed run some combustion chamber cleaner through. Some injector cleaners run extra strong will do it.
I would not worry the code until the mechanical, ignition and fuel problems are okay.

My gosh I would like to see that, do you have pics at least??

[goaliefergy53]

Correct in regards to past repairs, though it would have the light come on but not nearly as much pinging.I have a valve cover leak, already have a new gasket, just need to get that installed. Not sure when the timing belt was changed last, so that's also on my list to replace.

[itstock]

Any update to this? I am currently having the same condition. Check engine light comes on and you cannot give it more than half throttle. Once the check engine light goes out. The car engine runs normal.

[SiliconSoul]

Itstock - Check your codes. If it comes back as your Engine Coolant Tempature sensor (ECT) then it could be that. I had a similar issue that was fixed by replacing the sensor.

[goaliefergy53]

I'm wondering if it's maybe a bad catalytic converter since it happens when there's more pressure in the exhaust system. Gonna go to a few shops and see how much to get a 2" downpipe back exhaust setup done (current exhaust is 1.75"). Also have a timing belt kit on the way in case it might be related to that?

[goaliefergy53]

Well, after today, can add a lot more to this..... Went to an exhaust shop and got a quote of 500-550 for a downpipe-back 2" exhaust. On the way home I decided to take the freeway which went up a steep grade. Last time I drove up that grade I had some power loss and pinging (maxing 50mph if I remember correctly). This time was a much different story.....

As I started up the grade, I could tell there was definitely something wrong, I lost A LOT of power and the pinging was VERY loud. About halfway up in my rearview mirror alll I saw was white steam and immediately pulled off and shut it down. I replaced the radiator a few years ago and it has a sealed cap, so pressure relief goes into the overflow tank. The cap popped off the overflow due to the pressure (NOT a screw on cap!) and the cap with the hose attached to it (that goes to the radiator neck) had landed on top of the motor, spewing coolant onto the motor and exhaust manifold. Let it cool for a bit and slowly limped it the rest of the way up the hill and off the freeway. Bro brought me some water so refilled what was lost and reconnected the hoses and got it home...

Latest code check revealed Code 17 and Code 9. When I replaced the distributor, I didn't put a new cap and rotor on... I cleaned up the old one. Needless to say, first thing tomorrow I'm gonna get those ordered from the local parts store to rule those out. With code 9 (coolant temperature sensor) should I go ahead and pick up one of those as well?

Any other tips as to what might be causing my extreme "pinging", power loss and overheating?

[Movin]

Your radiator fan was on the whole time ? I wonder if this conversion has ground issues. Any exposed metal should show close to zero volts when measured from battery negative to the alt housing, the engine , frame work where the relays and computer are, frame work around radiator, exhaust manifold, thermostat housing? The measuring should be done with the engine running and everything electrical turned on.

That engine has suffered some serious abuse, keep an eye on that too.

[goaliefergy53]

Granted it was a meter maid vehicle in its prior life, it had at least 6,500 hours of idling and very slow driving life. I don't want to wreck the motor that's for sure! BUT......plan has always been, when the motor kicks the bucket see about putting in a B6T. :woc:

[goaliefergy53]

Cap, rotor and coolant temp sensor changed. Sounds "normal" idling *crosses fingers... Fan has kicked on so..... Guess gotta wait and see how it does on the road?

[Movin]

Spark plugs the correct number and ignition timing checked ?

[goaliefergy53]

After a few test drives, overflow was completely full and leaking some out the release hose and coolant was bubbling. Although I saw the fan working, I'm wondering if it's not working completely right...

[goaliefergy53]

Correct plugs and haven't tweaked with the ignition timing. I have a timing belt kit on the way as I type this so that will most likely be my next big task. Going up the nearby hills with it floored (engine up to temp of course before I did that!) seemed 50-55 was max and loud pinging. One thing I've also had is a strong odor of fuel in my "trunk". Replaced the filler neck to tank hoses, tank seals, and other fuel hoses but odor still present. Could I be having fuel pressure/injector issues?

[Studebaker]

If you have bubbles in the coolant then you have head gastket \ warped head problems.

[goaliefergy53]

Tracked down the fan relay, not easy to do on my particular vehicle, and that seemed to be the culprit for the overheating and power loss. Did some test drives and got it up to freeway speeds. Unfortunately on my way home felt something and lost speed, power and was running rough, so guessing timing belt might have skipped a tooth or two. Guess will find out when I talk the belt next weekend...