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  • 2 volts to fuel pump

    I am not getting 12 volts to the fuel pump. Fuel pump works when jumped manually 12 volts. When key is turned on to start, the car will crank, I only see 2-3 volts getting to the fuel pump. I tried doing the jumper wire at the "T" connector. The fuel pump DID NOT turn on. With key off, on or in the crank position.

    Buddy with another Festiva came over. Basically it was a parts swap fest. Fuel pump relay is good. VAF is good. Battery is good. I am getting 12 volt power through the engine fuse block.

    Where would I start looking at and where is the location if you tell me to go look.

    Thanks for the help.

    Chad

  • #2
    Check your ground. '92 Festivas have the fuel pump ground through the inertia switch to G400, located below the center of the liftgate.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 02-03-2015, 10:30 PM.

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    • #3
      If you have 12v at the start of a wire, and 3v at the end, yoy have a resistive connection. Highly likely an actual wire is resistive, but it's more than likely a connection somewhere. I'm all for cutting out junk wiring and hard wiring it. Obviously with a fuse and a switch. I sacrificed my rear window defrost relay so I could use that circuit to power my shorted tail lamps and license lights. Some might say, don't hard wire the fuel pump because safety, but if you put in a fuse within a foot of your power source, and maybe also hook it to a switch so you can turn the pump on and off yourself, you'll at least know your wiring is fresh and new. Worth it in my mind

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      • #4
        In the event of an accident, you need something other than to rely on a manual switch to shut the pump off. I installed a relay that checks for a tach pulse. No running engine, power is shut off to the pump. Don't just rely on the inertia switch or your finger to stop the pump.

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        • #5
          what supplies power to the "T" test connector by the master cylinder? I get the same 2 volts there with Key on.

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          • #6
            I'm just guessing ECA.
            See if you can find it on this diagram.
            Trace back from A-6.
            Last edited by bravekozak; 02-04-2015, 06:39 AM.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
              In the event of an accident, you need something other than to rely on a manual switch to shut the pump off. I installed a relay that checks for a tach pulse. No running engine, power is shut off to the pump. Don't just rely on the inertia switch or your finger to stop the pump.
              What kind of device?

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              • #8
                UPDATE

                I used the diagrams and one that was given to me on the starting system. I also found out that I was getting the same voltage to the injectors.

                I traced the schematic from the battery and checked connections and parts. It ended up being the Main Relay Fuel Injection Relay. I pulled it out and tested it on a buddies car. Same no start condition. Local auto stores do not carry the item.

                The part number for the relay is denso 056700-8850. I found a new relay on Ebay for $58. Local parts stores wanted over $130.

                So, if you experience a hard starting, then no start, check to see if you are getting 12 volts to the required components. After the main fuse block on the shock tower, power for the fuel side goes through the Main Relay Fuel Injection Relay.

                I hope this helps anyone that experiences this condition. Thanks for the people that gave advice.

                Chad

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                • #9
                  bhearts, I installed a revolution relay instead of a main relay fuel injection relay.

                  I don't have VAF. I have a perfectly good fuel pump relay to sell.

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                  • #10
                    I would have normal relay wired in before spending 50 some bucks.

                    Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                    • #11
                      Yes, I could have done that, but you read about wires being spliced and hacked on other vehicles from other people on the boards. I have one of those hacks with my electric fan. I have no problem modifying stock wiring, but to get something plug and play is too simple for me. Plus this relay lasted 24 years.

                      I posted where i got the relay, because even though these cars are cheap, there are people in the world that don't have ability to fix. I wanted to close out the thread on what the problem was, what the fix was, what part number. There were too many threads that I searched that never closed. It was just a dead end.

                      Chad
                      Last edited by itstock; 02-05-2015, 02:26 AM.

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