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cant break crank sprocket loose. crankshaft oil seal needs replaced bad.

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  • cant break crank sprocket loose. crankshaft oil seal needs replaced bad.

    i know theres a lot of threads about this issue. ive tried leaving it in gear and having someone stand on breaks. this method does not hold the crank very well. i just feel like im going to break something in the tranny.

    also tried wedging a flat head in the fly wheel with no luck so i put the starter back on to try the next method

    i tried the starter method with no luck so i removed the lowers pulleys(ac installed) and soaked it with magnetic pb blaster. im also thinking of heating the outside diameter of the pulley hub thing that the bolt seems to hold to the timing belt sprocket.. im at my whits end right now with this project and am considering rolling this thing off a cliff.

    i have not even tried a strap wrench as it doesnt seem like it would work... if you think a strap wrench would work better what brand do you suggest.

    thanks in advanced guys

  • #2
    What tools are you using? High quality Impact? breaker or cheater bar? 5th gear?

    You say "starter method". I am wondering if you are speaking of the same thing I tried once, though I don't like to admit I did such a thing. lol
    -Bryant

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    • #3
      yea i was desperate.. im using craftsman sockets and a cheater bar with someone standing on the brakes in fourth gear.. i was feeling like something was going to break with this method... maby 5th gear would have worked??

      the starter method is putting a socket and wrench(for me) and a cheater bar against the front crossmember on top and hitting the starter. i was scared to try this method but had no other options

      i have a breaker bar but it doesnt fit from the top and im using my winch to lift it up as far as i can.

      only thing left is to re try the brakes method in the morning after the pb blaster set in or to get a high quality strap wrench.. i dont have an impact or supporting compressor to run one... FML if this is the only method that works ill borrow a compressor and buy a impact
      Last edited by 2jzkilla; 02-08-2015, 12:12 AM.

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      • #4
        I invested in a HIGHER quality impact with a larger volume compressor myself. My junky cheaper impact wasn't cuttin' it. It took a 650lb'er to get it done and it did it quite easily. My old impact was 350 lb. I would guess that is what you are needing, especially if the breaker bar isn't working. This was on a Galant. Haven't had this trouble with a Festiva though.
        -Bryant

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        • #5
          I always just pull a spark plug with that piston at BDC and stuff as much nylon rope through the spark plug hole as I can and then start wrenching. I have never had a problem.
          Last edited by wirebrain; 02-08-2015, 02:00 AM.

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          • #6
            Well unfortunately I don't have the capitol for a compressor and impact now so tomorrow i'm going to try the fly wheel method again and then the brakes method if that doesn't work. The rope thing i've heard of but it seems like it would leave a lot of spring which doesnt work to my advantage. And couldn't that possibly mess up a rod? Kinda like having water in the engine and trying to turn it over?

            My assistant held the flathead in the flywheel hole against whatever he could and the skrew driver just bent. I was thinking about using a skinny chizzle to wedge in there cuz it won't flex like the skrew driver.

            I've been trying to get the breaker bar in there but even with the engine raised way up it still won't fit. I'm using my good half inch ratchet with a good socket and the handle from my hack which is like almost three feet so i've got good leverage I feel like but the engine just cannot be held still enough to break it loose.

            would a smaller impact and a smaller air compressor even be worth trying?? And it seems like the only way to get an impact on it would be pull the engine out?

            I know its not smart but what if I used the tension of the old timing belt with a wrench on the cam? Maby a piece of wood between the wrench and the head to keep the wrench from gouging the head. Do I risk bending the cam doing this?
            Last edited by 2jzkilla; 02-08-2015, 03:17 AM.

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            • #7
              Go rent an electric impact, and drop the engine down so you can get the socket on the crank bolt.
              I have a Dewalt 1/2 drive impact DW293 with 110 power cord from ebay that has no problems just got to hold it on and let it hammer away.
              Last edited by twopass; 02-08-2015, 03:42 AM.
              Donn
              ______________
              93 Blue rio/aspire swapped,B8,

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              • #9
                Originally posted by twopass View Post
                Go rent an electric impact, and drop the engine down so you can get the socket on the crank bolt.
                I have a Dewalt 1/2 drive impact DW293 with 110 power cord from ebay that has no problems just got to hold it on and let it hammer away.
                ^ What he said. Drop the engine down buy removing the 3 nuts on the pass side motor mount. Put a jack under the engine to lower it until you can reach the crank bolt. Also have to remove the tire and a panel in the wheel well to get at the bolt.
                Dan




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                • #10
                  The "starter method" works great for me every time. Just don't try to do it on a Honda. (engine on wrong side of bay, crank turns the wrong direction "tightening" the bolt).

                  Throw a ratchet on there with a bar long enough to rest on the floor and hit the key. Make sure you pull the plug coil wire first so it doesn't crank up.
                  ~Nate

                  the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                  Current cars:
                  91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
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                  • #11
                    I've used the starter method successfully before too, on a Subaru, so I know that works. But I prefer the flywheel method. I stick the 90-degree end of a pry bar in the teeth, and put it up against the right side of the hole. Often I have to use a bungee cord to hold the pry bar in place, if no helper is handy. Then I can get the crank nut off no problem.

                    Besides, the starter method won't help you torque that nut when you have to put it back on. The flywheel method will; you just do the same thing, with the pry bar up against the left side of the hole.
                    Last edited by TominMO; 02-08-2015, 09:17 AM.
                    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
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                    • #12
                      On other applications I've used a large hammer on a cheater bar to provide impact.
                      Pounding away on the cheater or even on an open end wrench with the hammer
                      seems to provide enough impact to break nuts and bolts free.
                      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                      • #13
                        Originally posted by WmWatt View Post
                        On other applications I've used a large hammer on a cheater bar to provide impact.
                        Pounding away on the cheater or even on an open end wrench with the hammer
                        seems to provide enough impact to break nuts and bolts free.
                        Agree. Pry bar in flywheel plus this will get it off for sure.
                        90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                        09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                        You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                        Disaster preparedness

                        Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                        Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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                        • #14
                          Originally posted by wirebrain View Post
                          I always just pull a spark plug with that piston at BDC and stuff as much nylon rope through the spark plug hole as I can and then start wrenching. I have never had a problem.
                          This works! Been using this method a long time
                          -Greg
                          Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
                          BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
                          Redneck Engineer
                          FOTY - '09
                          5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

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                          • #15
                            ^^ you can use oil on the compression stroke, on the side of the stroke that you need to turn the bolt. Turn backwards and the oil is pushed out. It does smoke a bit later lol
                            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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