Cone Filter on a '95 Aspire

[Kringlekrush]

I'm going to be replacing my MAF next week and figured I'd remove the stock air box and filter and put a cone filter on but I have a couple questions.

1. What size (inner diameter) do I need?
2. There is a sensor in the air box, does that need to be installed somewhere?
3. There is a air line attached to the top of the air box, do I need to install that somewhere?

Thanks

[TominMO]

I'm going to be replacing my MAF next week and figured I'd remove the stock air box and filter and put a cone filter on but I have a couple questions.

1. What size (inner diameter) do I need?
2. There is a sensor in the air box, does that need to be installed somewhere?
3. There is a air line attached to the top of the air box, do I need to install that somewhere?

Thanks

1. Measure it.
2. Sensor is in the MAF itself, not the airbox.
3. Air line is for vacuum; frankly I have wondered about that myself, what is its purpose? Maybe you could just plug it at the intake manifold end. Someone more experienced please add your two cents.

BTW a cone filter will not give you any more airflow than just drilling out the bottom airbox half with a couple dozen holes, and removing that snorkle piece on the front. But if you're doing it for looks, then fine.

[Kringlekrush]

There is the sensor that plugs into the MAF and there is one in the air box as well near the MAF

[nitrofarm]

If its the Hose that I'm thinking of its for the Fuel Vapor Evap System-

[Kringlekrush]

Here is a picuploadfromtaptalk1426281386065.jpg

[nitrofarm]

Yup

[TominMO]

Here is a pic[ATTACH]17384[/ATTACH]

Oh right, the IAT sensor. Here is a possible solution

[Kringlekrush]

Sweet, thanks

[rmoltis]

Just buy the drop in kn 33-2222.
A cone filter isn't worth adding unless you plan on increasing the displacement of your engine. Or using above 4k rpms all the time.

I had bought the smallest cone filter I could find with a velocity stack built in that flowed much more than the stock air box while also matching the maf inside diameter.

Before adding it I had the stock air box with the drop in 33-2222 since I bought the car new.
which when tested on the scanguage gave me an extra % 10 engine loading.
now this %10 wasn't extra power.
Rather it just reduced the pressure drop from the filter media.
which means it flowed enough extra air to bring the vehicle back up to stock specs.
rather than the paper filters which just increased resistance for the air coming into the engine.


I ran the cone filter for a whole year of daily driving.
And what I noticed was it loses much torque between the rpms you drive in % 80 of the time.
Leading you to keep the rpms high to stay in the power band.
Reducing fuel efficiency and adding more wear and tear on the engine.

After a year I went back to the original drop in filter and stock air box because it brought my torque back in all rpm ranges.
The stock box really does flow more than enough for maybe 80hp?


Another reason I say it is more than enough for a mildly modded b3.
Is because when I got my full exhaust finished.
Even though the powerband of the engine had changed.
The stock box still delivered enough airflow to accommodate the added flow out the exhaust throughout the entire rpm range.
the cone filter would lose me lots of lower rpm torque. But above 4k rpms it would make a difference.


Those boxes are engineered to minimize pressure drop from inlet to combustion chamber,
While maintaining high velocity to help cram as much air as possible into the engine without it reversing and changing directions.

You put that cone filter on and it will cause intake reversion which inhibits the engines ability to ingest air as its waves escape the intake plenum and tract slowing down the airflow.

The drop in filter is only like $ 30 and you won't have to relocate any sensors