So I cut off the bolt holding the control arm because she was spinning...Now how do I

[jimdigs]

..get the rest of the bolt out of the caged end. Its still attached to the frame bolt thingy. Need to get the new control arm on and this is holding me up, any help will be appreciated. I have read the other posts about this but it sound like the bolt just fell into the frame box and then pulled it out through the little hole but this one is still attached.

The first picture is where the control arm is usual at and showing the rest of the bolt that is poking out through the frame box thing. Other pic is of the head of the bolt laying in the driveway. Thanks, Jim

[jimdigs]

Update..So I got the rest of the bolt off with the square nut attached by punching the bolt out of the caged area. So I think, great, but the bolt that was supplied with my control arm is to short?!?! Why? Also my pinch bolt for the bushing end of the control arm is all messed up, doesn't look like the original, its ground on two sides and stripped out in spots. Not having much fun here.

[WmWatt]

The end of the pinch bolt is tapered to make it easeir to insert. Don't know why there is a flat under the head. Will it go in?
Before inserting the pinch bolt I use a large nail in the hole to line up the groove in the ball joint with the bolt hole so the bolt will slide
right in. If you get in trouble a replacement for the pinch bolt bolt is not difficult to find at a hardware store, just get one with a
high hardness number. The threadless shoulder is preferred because threads will wear down and the bolt will be loose in there.
Good luck.

[jimdigs]

The end of the pinch bolt is tapered to make it easeir to insert. Don't know why there is a flat under the head. Will it go in?
Before inserting the pinch bolt I use a large nail in the hole to line up the groove in the ball joint with the bolt hole so the bolt will slide
right in. If you get in trouble a replacement for the pinch bolt bolt is not difficult to find at a hardware store, just get one with a
high hardness number. The threadless shoulder is preferred because threads will wear down and the bolt will be loose in there.
Good luck.

Sorry Wm. I should of specified. The picture of the clean bolt is of the new one that came with my control arm and its to short. You think I should grind a angle on the new bolt that I buy as a pinch bolt?

[koRnhead]

Yeah, you need to supply your own bolt and nut when you cut that one.

[WmWatt]

I don't think the tapered end is required.
Only taper if the bolt doesn't go in readily.
If you line up to groove it should slide in.

[jfd64]

Been there done that.i got frustrated trying to get the new hardware in and attached and cut part of the unibody out to getter done.I do not necessarily advise that but i put 20,000 miles on after that before selling it cheap and upgrading.

[jimdigs]

Been there done that.i got frustrated trying to get the new hardware in and attached and cut part of the unibody out to getter done.I do not necessarily advise that but i put 20,000 miles on after that before selling it cheap and upgrading.

Do you remember what length bolt you had to use? The 2 1/2 inch bolt would barely grab so I used a 3 inch bolt. I drilled a couple of holes in the frame to help grab hold of the nut while tightening. I couldn't get the 30 ft lb torque stated in the manual but I got 20 something. Hope she holds.

[rmoltis]

better make sure she holds. last time i had a control arm not tight enough.
it left me stranded on a side street in seattle because it came loose and stretched my passenger side c.v. joint to the point it seperated and broke.
which made me get a tow home to replace the c.v. joints (did both sides while i was at it. why not?) then had to reconnect the control arm and torque it down again.

so it had cost me an extra tow home + 1 new c.v. joint but replaced both just because.

just do it right the first time