Trying (Again) to set proper timing on B6 SOHC

[TorqueEffect]

I haven't been able to really get the timing right on my first gen B6, and I think it is because I am using the small-nosed pulley off my old B3 so I could still run my a/c setup.

I marked both notches on the pulley with a whiteout pen, and neither one of them line up right with the timing-scale on the timing cover.

Currently the engine has very poor get-up-and-go, and the the crankshaft and camshaft marks line up perfectly when set to TDC, so the belt hasn't jumped any teeth.

Should I spin the engine to TDC and make my own mark on the pulley using TDC on the scale?

[TominMO]

That sounds like a good plan.

Do you have the gen1 B6 pulley to compare where the marks are? Seems to me they should be in the same place.

[drddan]

I am using the Festy pulley on the 1st gen B6 sohc. No timing problems. Timing sets like it should.

IMO, there is something off on your timing. B6 and B3 are same in most things as is timing.

[TominMO]

The more forward of the two notches should be TDC. If it is not lining up, how far is it off? It seems to me that maybe the crankshaft timing mark isn't really lining up; like it's off half a tooth but it's hard to tell. I would adjust it so the forward pulley notch is directly on the TDC mark on the timing belt cover, then make sure the cam sprocket mark is straight up too (marks should be at 12 and 3 o'clock). Tension should be on the right side of the belt, with the left (tensioner side) slack, then let the tensioner do its thing by loosening, then tightening the bolt. Rotate twice to check that it is still right. Re-check ignition timing. Fire it up.

[Movin]

I don't trust any marks, I have found too many things wrong. Make your own marks. It takes a little doing but set up a dial indiactor through the spark plug hole. With the piston at top, rock the engine back and forth, mark .010 on both sides of the top. Mark on the pulley using the tdc pointer. Mark the exact center between the two marks, this is the real exact TDC. Mark the timing belt sprocket the same way. That is how you would set up a degree wheel if you were going to customize cam timing.

I have found that when engines are rebuilt, flywheels changed, sometimes timing marks are off. If a harmonic balancer shifts a little on the rubber on other engine types timing can be way off. How many SBC or SBF timing covers have been replaced with the wrong one? Lots!! Getting burned by not checking only happens once lol !

[dalebwilson]

Torque, I do not own a B6, but the B3 uses the pointer on the plastic cover as the ignition timing refrence mark and not the scale. The T-10 scale seems to be a visual reference that Mazda added to the plastic cover. With the ST1 grounded and RPM at 750, your 10 degree BTDC timing is correct when the first mark on the pulley intersects with the pointer on the plastic cover. Please see the photo below.

[TominMO]

^^ I'm confused by that pic. I thought there was only one timing mark on the pulley, a little notch; and that it had to align with the T to 10 marks on the front of the lower timing belt cover. I don't see why they would bother to have that second mark farther back on the pulley, and also on the cover.

Also, I misspoke in post #4 above, going from memory. I meant to refer to the marks on the cover as illustrated above. And only one notch on the pulley. And I like Movin's advice on properly determining TDC yourself.

[TorqueEffect]

I am half tempted to just time it by trial and error, see what gives the most power.

I have heard just to advance it until it starts pinging, then back it off a bit, but thing is, I have had that distributor all the way forward and back, and I don't remember any pinging, just a change engine speed and running condition, and yes I had STI grounded.
Now I keep forgetting, is advancing the timing turning the distributor to the left, or to the right?

I don't care if I have to run Premium, but if it gives the engine more power, I am all for it. Right now, it will do a burnout with the much wider than stock 165/70/13s, but it seems like once it gets grip it kinda doesn't feel like it has the power it should. Exhaust sounds nice, though people may not like the angry beehive sound as much as I do. lol

Does the B6 need a harmonic balancer? the crank pulley I pulled off of it was quite hefty, but the B3 one I put on there was quite light in comparison.
I hope the engine isn't rattling itself to pieces.

[dalebwilson]

Again I am unsure about the B6, but the B3 pulley has 2 timing marks/notches about 3/4" apart. One mark sets TDC on #1 and the other is for the 10 degrees BTDC ignition timing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dragonhealer]

TorqueEffect, Movin is most correct.
I don't have a B3 out of the hole to show, but it will be the same as small nose shown in first pic below, notice the key notch is exactly vertical. The "T" mark on the lower timing cover should co-inside with the pulley notch if the pulley came off of a 90-93 Festiva, possibly others.
The only difference here is the isolastic damper, required especially with the Miata ECU's redline, but the B6 will be fine with just the pulley on a Festiva's redline
2015-03-21_13-32-17_143.jpg
Below is the same on a big nose just for reference.
2015-03-21_13-30-55_825.jpg

[Dragonhealer]

I should clarify, that is TDC, your timing will be between 10 and 14 degrees BTDC.
Looking at the end of the distributor cap, clockwise is advanced.

[TorqueEffect]

Thanks everyone! Will be working on it next chance I get. But my days off this week are going to be spent with my girlfriend. [emoji14]

[Movin]

I didn't know what year or years your parts are but here is a page out of the book. I wrote in the specs for the B6 and BP engines that are listed with this diagram. Again, especially with conversions I do not trust marks. I don't trust books . I use this information as a guide to get me thinking then I try to prove the info wrong. When I have it dialed in Ii make my own marks if needed.



Sorry about the cell phone pic of the diagram lol