89 carb valve adjustment

[350freak]

ok so i did some digging and found the adjustments were .012 on a hot head. so i took a look my valves are very loud, I checked the valves and most of them at TDC were closed tight like so tight the rockers had no wiggle at all. I knew this was a bad idea but i did the adjustments anyways and as suspected louder than before. what can i do to shut the guys up.

[TominMO]

I've noticed over the years that some cars with manual-adjust lifters will call for .010 on the intake side and .012 on the exhaust side. The intake valve will not get as hot as the exhaust valve, hence the exhaust side needs more clearance for expansion. You might try that to quiet the lifters. If you're a little hesitant about this, try .011 on the intake side and see if that helps.

[350freak]

ok so maybe i did this wrong. i pulled the plugs and "the engine was cool" i hand rotated the crank to get the cylinder i was on to TDC using a straw to feel the piston lift and drop with both valves closed. then adjusted each valve to a snug tug at .012. did i screw up?

[TominMO]

ok so maybe i did this wrong. i pulled the plugs and "the engine was cool" i hand rotated the crank to get the cylinder i was on to TDC using a straw to feel the piston lift and drop with both valves closed. then adjusted each valve to a snug tug at .012. did i screw up?

The Haynes manual specifies .012" for both intake and exhaust lifters, with engine hot. Also (you probably know this, but some might not), you can't do all 8 lifters at once--you do a few at a time--the ones that are on the round, non-lobe part of the cam; then rotate the cam to get the others on the non-lobe part of the cam so you can properly adjust them. You might be doing two intake and two exhaust at a time, for example, then doing the rest. When you pull the valve cover, you will always have some lifters that are tight, and some that are loose, depending on where they are on their specific lobes.

As far as rotating the cam, I just put it in 5th, take the parking brake off, and move the car a few inches; then take it back out of gear and put the parking brake back on. Another way is to use an adjustable wrench on the cam itself (with tranny in neutral), just inside the head on the timing-belt end. It helps a lot to pull the spark plugs, so compression isn't fighting you.

BTW, TDC has nothing to do with it; it's all about where the cam lobes are.

Interestingly, my Haynes manual for 1990-2003 323s/Proteges lists clearances for the DOHC engines with engine cold, and gives a range such as .010" to .012". It doesn't even mention the gen2 B6 1.6 SOHC, so I guess that one has hydraulic lifters. I forget if the gen1 B6 (1986-1989) is manual or hydraulic adjustment.

[Movin]

Make sure you are not on TDC of the Exhaust stroke, your story sounds like that is what happened.

[WmWatt]

As a novice I followed the instructions in the Haynes manual and had no problem. I am so slow the warm engine is cold by the time I finish.

[TominMO]

To clarify on TDC and the procedure in Haynes: putting the #1 piston at TDC is only so you have a starting point. It really doesn't matter which ones you do first. As long as you get to all eight valves, it will be good.

[Chobobulous]

My gen 1 b6 has hydraulic ones. 89 Mazda.

[350freak]

I did TDC on compression so all the valves are closed but I like the idea of one valve at a time on the back side of the lobe just incase i dont get the TDC dead on. thank you guys any advise on doing this cold and why most of the valves were set touching with no play at all and still had valve chatter

[TominMO]

I did TDC on compression so all the valves are closed but I like the idea of one valve at a time on the back side of the lobe just incase i dont get the TDC dead on. thank you guys any advise on doing this cold and why most of the valves were set touching with no play at all and still had valve chatter

With TDC on compression only four valves are closed--see Haynes page 1-18, pic 16.3. You will never have all 8 valves closed, or open either. This is a perfect example of how this manual is useful for DIY mechanics.

[350freak]

i didn't mean all of them at the same time i'm referring to the exhaust and intake closed at the same time. if you set the cylinder your on to TDC on compression it closes both valves for that piston. I'm only trying to find out if before I did my adjustments, if some of the valves (being closed) were completely touching the rockers what could still have caused the valve tick.

[Movin]

Maybe things are badly worn. A feeler gauge can only measure from high point to high point. Check again with a dial indicator. It will measure actual clearance including grooves and other wear. They are a pain to set up and use for each valve so it is not the recommended way in a haynes manual.

[TominMO]

i didn't mean all of them at the same time i'm referring to the exhaust and intake closed at the same time. if you set the cylinder your on to TDC on compression it closes both valves for that piston. I'm only trying to find out if before I did my adjustments, if some of the valves (being closed) were completely touching the rockers what could still have caused the valve tick.

OK, gotcha now. Just make sure the cam lobe for the rocker you are working on is facing down, away from the rocker, and you can accurately adjust the lash. Putting piston #1 on TDC lets you do four rockers at once, but it doesn't matter what the order is, just so you get to all eight.

[sketchman]

You can do them cold. I always did. Can't remember off the top of my head what the correction is, but google will find it for you. Look for cold valve adjustment difference or something like that.