Haven't had much luck with the search. Can anyone tell me what size to use/possible suppliers. The parts stores can't help me.
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Exhaust manifold stud
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You just need to goto fastenal with your manifold bolts, and just get a set of studs with matching threads and stud length
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M8 x1.25 and about 1 3/4 inches long. Same as the B3. These are the ones in the head to attach the mani, correct?
Napa usually has a good selection of studs alsoLast edited by drddan; 04-14-2015, 04:43 PM.Dan
Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO
Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC
I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:
R.I.P.
Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
Silver 1988 Festiva L
My Music!
http://www.reverbnation.com/main/sea...t_songs/266647
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Nah! No one ever replaces studs til they breakDan
Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO
Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC
I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:
R.I.P.
Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
Silver 1988 Festiva L
My Music!
http://www.reverbnation.com/main/sea...t_songs/266647
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I replace all bolts, nuts and screws with new ones anytime I work on anything.
I replaced all my manifold studs with grade 8 steel bolts instead.
I didn't like the locknut that would end up digging into the studs wearing down the threads.
As well as how loosening the locknuts that would occasionally remove the studs when I didn't want them removed.
Also the bigger bolt head gives me more surface area to grab onto.
That's my opinion.
But on a side note studs make more sense as far as something to hang your manifold on while installing.
And how when the locknut is tightened it doesn't twist on the stud itself.
It just pulls things tight.
I just figure these bolts are so small and torque specs are low that it shouldn't make much of a difference.
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Originally posted by rmoltis View PostI replace all bolts, nuts and screws with new ones anytime I work on anything.
I replaced all my manifold studs with grade 8 steel bolts instead.
I didn't like the locknut that would end up digging into the studs wearing down the threads.
As well as how loosening the locknuts that would occasionally remove the studs when I didn't want them removed.
Also the bigger bolt head gives me more surface area to grab onto.
That's my opinion.
But on a side note studs make more sense as far as something to hang your manifold on while installing.
And how when the locknut is tightened it doesn't twist on the stud itself.
It just pulls things tight.
I just figure these bolts are so small and torque specs are low that it shouldn't make much of a difference.Last edited by drddan; 04-14-2015, 10:23 PM.Dan
Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO
Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC
I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:
R.I.P.
Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
Silver 1988 Festiva L
My Music!
http://www.reverbnation.com/main/sea...t_songs/266647
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Replacing studs with bolts is not a good idea neither is replacing good studs each time you remove a stud from an aluminum anything you wear the threads making them a little less able to hold torque that is why most manufacturers use studs which are mean't to stay in place with nuts that are meant to be reused.If it ain't broke don't fix it. Sorry if this is a duplicate response my phone glitched30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.
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I'd rather not take the chance here in the rust belt with reusing 20 year old soft corroded studs.
Also I don't think a 1 time replacement from stock to new bolts after 20 years is gonna strip my aluminum head lol.
Replacing with new is always the only option.
And that saying if it ain't broke don't fix it.
I don't like that saying because that just means you have to wait for a bad situation to present itself.
Which could happen at any moment. During a 2000 mile road trip. Or to the grocery store. Or in an emergency situation.
Preventative maintenance is always the best option.
It ensures that nothing bad will ever happen.
As well as gurantee-ing that all your systems function %100 during the most vital times when you need them.
I tend to replace a lot of things early or right before the end of their use able ranges.
Or any car with 100k miles on it that I had bought used I figure any part on the car is free game to be replaced
I always start with wearable maintenance related things first, then over the years I restore complete systems one at a time.
Once I have gone through the entire vehicle I will be satisfied for a few years 5-10 while just doing wearable item maintenance As needed.Last edited by rmoltis; 04-15-2015, 09:06 AM.
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