what's the best way to drop the rear beam by yourself?

[rmoltis]

As the title states. I will be dropping the rear beam next to get the rear beam bushings replaced.

I will most likely be doing this by myself so any tips would be appreciated.

It looks like it is a good weight.
And I can't undo one side then the other.
I don't want to take the chance to twist the beam and ruin it.

And I'd like to use a jack to lower it. But with its shape and the way the weight of the drums pulls it down.
I think it would fall off the jack.

Do I just need a second person to help drop it as well as reinstallation?

I would sime some heads up before I get started on the best way to accomplish all this would be.
As well as will I have a rough time removing and or replacing my beam bushings.
Any tips for those as well.

Much Thanks is given to those who lend good advice.

The ones with bad avice..get off my thread lol

[sketchman]

Don't see why you couldn't use a jack.

Jack it up tight, but not binding it. Then loosen and remove bolts, and slowly lower it down to change the bushings. It should pivot on the strut lower holes just fine.

I was assuming the whole car is up on stands with the suspension at full droop of course.

[rmoltis]

Don't see why you couldn't use a jack.

Jack it up tight, but not binding it. Then loosen and remove bolts, and slowly lower it down to change the bushings. It should pivot on the strut lower holes just fine.

I was assuming the whole car is up on stands with the suspension at full droop of course.

My rear suspension is completely removed right now minus the beam.

You suggest i hook up the new struts and springs in the rear.
Then un-hinge the beam from the body, replace bushings.
Then swing back in place?

[rmoltis]

What would you guys think of me using a jack stand on each side of the beam next to drums.
Then lowered the opposing side with the jack.
Then while on the jack replace bushings.


Would this be feasible. Because if so it would save me the hassle of disconnecting my brake lines.

On a side note will I need to go get a 2 jaw puller, or a 3 jaw puller?

[sketchman]

Yeah, I would go ahead and install the struts and then do the bushings.

[rmoltis]

I didn't want to install my struts or remove my brake lines.

So I used a jack beneath each drum location
Then the jack right in center of the beam on that tab sticking out.


I loosened the bolts and used the jack to maneuver up and down.

I slid everything back to pull the assembly off the hinges.

Then I proceeded to use a 2 jaw puller to press it out from the inside.
I know, using a puller to press lol.
I made sure to silicone lubricant spray then up underneath the edges to help the removal process.
It worked great. No problems at all.


Then once done with removal.
I took the new bushings and sprayed them with the silicone lubricant as well as the bushing hole.
Then I used the 2 jaw puller to press them back inside.


Once done I slid the beam assembly back into place and bolted it up.
Making sure to reuse the white nylon washers on the side of each bushing.

Now I'm just waiting on nuts and bolts to get everything buttoned up.

Here are the old bushings.
I am suprised how good of shape they are in.
I would rate them at 7-8/10.

I didn't plan on saving them.
So the puller pressed a couple lines into the bushing shafts the first 1/16" maybe.
They are still useable if anyone wants them.
Figured out after I was done how good of shape they were in.





If anyone wants the used rear beam bushings $10+ shipping so approx $15 and I'll throw in those used front sway bar to frame bushings too.
I'd rate them at 5-6/10 simply because the cracks on the outside edges extending inward maybe 1/2"