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stubborn lower control arm

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  • stubborn lower control arm

    Anyone got any tips for a lower control arm that will just not let go of the knuckle?

    Even with a mix of ATF and acetone, putting strain on it by jacking up by the rotor so the sway bar is pulling down on it. smacking it with a hammer repeatedly at the knuckle, and down on top of the control arm.

    Just about given up since this knuckle isn't going back on the car, but would like to save the control arm to avoid paying for another one.
    1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
    2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
    1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

  • #2
    Take a large straight blade screw driver and hammer it into the gap on the knuckle to wedge open a bit. I find this will often be enough to free up the stubborn control arm.

    Hope that helps

    Ian
    Ian
    Calgary AB, Canada
    93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
    59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

    "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

    Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

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    • #3
      Fastivaca beat me to it!
      '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
      '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
      '92 Aqua parts Car
      '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
      '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

      "Your God of repentance will not save you.
      Your holy ghost will not save you.
      Your God plutonium will not save you.
      In fact...
      ...You will not be saved!"

      Prince of Darkness -1987

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      • #4
        I personally jacked the knuckle upwards with my floor jack compressing the front spring slightly but not dangerously.
        Then with the upward pulling of the knuckle and the sway bar wanting to pull down on the control arm.

        Use your hammer on the control arm now downwards. It pops out everytime.
        Last edited by rmoltis; 06-04-2015, 05:26 PM.
        Running 40psi.....in my tires.



        http://aspire.b1.jcink.com/index.php?showtopic=611&st=0

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        • #5
          I finally got it out. lots of hammering it with the axle out of the way, then it finally started to slide out.
          1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
          2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
          1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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          • #6
            Long cheater pipe over the sway bar and under the inner lca mounting point does the trick, you get more leverage that way.
            2008 Kia Rio- new beater
            1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
            1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
            1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
            1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
            1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
            1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
            1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



            "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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            • #7
              Opening the gap as Fastivaca stated is relatively easy. For a ball joint that is being reused, I think it's too forceful to beat it out and could be damaging.
              When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

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              • #8
                It was open as far as it would go, I even took the biggest flathead I could find and it slide right in the gap.

                I might have damaged the balljoint a bit, but I just wanted to get the car operational again with the Rio swap. Then again these are Dorman LCAs, so they could be worn out before the boots have even perished. lol I didn't feel any play in the ball joint, so I guess that is good.

                If I have to change the LCA, I will need to cut a hole in the frame to get access to the nut, because I did attempt to remove the LCA and just pull it all out, but the nut inside the frame just keeps spinning.
                1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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