Loaded rotors and drums anywhere?

[89 festevil]

Do any of the drums and rotors on rockauto already have the bearings pressed in? i noticed a few said does not include bearings.. I'm crossing my fingers some do so i can do my brake, suspension, trans swap, cv axles and all that in one go with no baking of metal parts in the oven and freezing bearings.. Going to go look on amazon for the off chance they do carry them with the bearings already cause i need all this by wednesday when my 3 day vacation starts so i can get this all done in one go..

[lessersivad]

As far as I know (and I'm no expert) at the very most the drums MAY have the races installed, but I wouldn't count on it.

IF you're talking standard Festiva rotors, they bolt on from the back side of the hub. Aspire rotors simply fit on from the front.

[89 festevil]

oh boy, oh well i'll just use a torch- found drums on amazon that will get here before my vacation. already bought the bearings when i first got the car but just never got around to doing them because it needs new brakes anyways.

[Eaglefreek]

The front rotor and hub aren't available as a whole assembly and require a press or some have used other methods. The rear rotors don't require pressing or freezing or baking. They are standard tapered rollers bearings.

[89 festevil]

can i get a link to some of the other methods? I don't have access to a press, but i have a BFH and some big sockets if that's one of the other methods..

[jimdigs]

I bought an entire knuckle from a junk yard on line for $60 including shipping. I bought new bearings for it and had a local performance automotive press out the old bearing and put in the new ones for me for $40.

[WmWatt]

I made a plywood jig to hold the hub and axle while the knuckle is screwed down using the axle nut and washer with some pieces of plastic pipe over the end of the axle to get it go on straight. The plywood jig has a large centre hole for the hub made with a hole saw attachment on a drill, and four smaller holes for the lug bolts to fasten the hub to the plywood. There are photos on Photobucked under my ID there "ag384fb". A serch of this site on "repair photos" will bring up a post with old Photobucket links which don't work any more. I used a 3-prong puller from an auto parts store free tool loaner program to pull the knuckle off the hub but the dust plate has to be sacrificed to do it that way. Others have posted here they drove the kuckle off the hub by hammering on the rotors since they were discarding the rotors and didn't care about rotor damage. DON'T LOOSE THE SPACERS! (I just thought I should add that even though Festiva owners have it tatooed on their foreheads in reverse so they read it every time they look in a mirror.)

[cburkett65]

I bought a rotunda T88C-1000 tool set that has a tool to separate the knuckle from the hub. It works well for the job. A welder could easily make the same type of tool.

[jawja jim]

I bought a rotunda T88C-1000 tool set that has a tool to separate the knuckle from the hub. It works well for the job. A welder could easily make the same type of tool.

Any chance you could post a picture of this gizmo? Maybe with dimensions?

[ricko1966]

I use a cheap old slide hammer taking them out and apart if you want to know how pm me for my phone number. I do not feel like trying to do a write up and description using my phone .

[jawja jim]

I use a cheap old slide hammer taking them out and apart if you want to know how pm me for my phone number. I do not feel like trying to do a write up and description using my phone .

Understand. I checked those out on Ebay and all I saw had additional letters on the rotunda T88C-1000 like F or T and varied in price from $25 shipped to hundreds. Which do you have?

[cburkett65]

I have the T88C-1000-ST. Its really for the tracer but the kunckle puller is the same as the T88C-1000-SF.
The knuckle puller is T87C-1104-A. It also contains the T87C-1104-B which is the Space Selection Tool.

[cburkett65]

If you have someone that can weld it. There are two plate steel 1/4" thick 10"x1.25". They are 1.5" apart with center nut. The hole to attach at the lower struct mount is 3.5" from the center nut. For the other side there is an L shaped rod with threads on the long end. This goes in the ball joint hole.

[jawja jim]

Thanks for the additional info and specs. I saw the kits that said Tracer and figured they would work , but confirmation is good.