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92 Festiva Low Timing Belt Cover Bolt - Removal Problem

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  • #1

    92 Festiva Low Timing Belt Cover Bolt - Removal Problem

    Since I recently had a rough idle problem, I decided that it was time to do an overdue timing belt / water pump job.

    The regular repair manual steps have gone well so far except:
    I decided to replace a lower timing belt cover bolt. It was missing the cap so the cover was not attached well and had let dirt into the Tbelt area. Since the bolt is 6mm I got an Irwin 53901 1/4" / 6mm extractor. The extractor turned out to be too large to properly bite in the bolt to remove it. I tried using the extractor and also a small Channelock wrench to the remove. All I ended up doing was removing the thread from most of bolt. (See picture)

    Of course this problem isn't mentioned in the repair manual since I messed it up. Any thoughts about any modern tools or techniques that I could use? I think the bolt will come out if I could get enough torque on it.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by FestivaLAqua; 10-01-2015, 04:17 PM.
    1992 Festiva 5 speed
    1998 Escort ZX2 DOHC 2.0 5 speed
    Tags: bolt removal, timing belt
  • #2
    Personally I wouldn't even worry about it. All the other bolts will hold it on fine. If you are concerned that there is a little gap at that location that can let dirt in, make sure the cover is clean and then stick on a piece of Gorilla Tape so that it covers the gap.
    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
    09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

    You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

    Disaster preparedness

    Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

    Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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    • #3
      Was that a broken bolt, or is it a stud missing the nut? I feel like a couple of those timing belt fasteners might have been studs, but I'm not sure (I work on a LOT of different vehicles). Vice grips is probably your best bet, but I'm with Tom, most likely I just wouldn't mess with it. Or you could just replace your oil pump while you're at it, lol.

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      • #4
        Tom & Zeph - Thanks for your practical advice. That bolt's been like that since before I had the car! (over 150,000 miles) But, Zeph's oil pump suggestion reminded me of last winter. During our couple of cold snaps here last winter, I had a loud valve rap for about a minute every time I started it. So changing the oil pump "while I'm at it" might help that problem. It looks like all I need to do now to get to the oil pump is remove the crankshaft sprocket and drop the oil pan.
        1992 Festiva 5 speed
        1998 Escort ZX2 DOHC 2.0 5 speed

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        • #5
          The best ways I have found to deal with broken bolts like that are place a nut over the piece sticking out. MIg weld the nut to the stub through the center of the nut. Rub a crayon around the base of the hot nut. Remove your nut bolt stud thing. The nut gives you a wrench the mig gives you heat and the crayon wicks into the threads for the best lubrication you could want you may have to gradually run in back out in a little more back out more etc.
          Last edited by ricko1966; 10-04-2015, 08:12 AM.
          30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by FestivaLAqua View Post
            Tom & Zeph - Thanks for your practical advice. That bolt's been like that since before I had the car! (over 150,000 miles) But, Zeph's oil pump suggestion reminded me of last winter. During our couple of cold snaps here last winter, I had a loud valve rap for about a minute every time I started it. So changing the oil pump "while I'm at it" might help that problem. It looks like all I need to do now to get to the oil pump is remove the crankshaft sprocket and drop the oil pan.
            The loud valves are actually probably the hydraulic lifters filling with oil. Takes longer with cold oil, which has to heat up first to flow better. Don't do the oil pump because of this; it won't help anyway. You could go to 0W30 oil for the winter, no more than 5W30. The oil pump does not go out very often in these cars.
            90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
            09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

            You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

            Disaster preparedness

            Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

            Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by FestivaLAqua View Post
              Tom & Zeph - Thanks for your practical advice. That bolt's been like that since before I had the car! (over 150,000 miles) But, Zeph's oil pump suggestion reminded me of last winter. During our couple of cold snaps here last winter, I had a loud valve rap for about a minute every time I started it. So changing the oil pump "while I'm at it" might help that problem. It looks like all I need to do now to get to the oil pump is remove the crankshaft sprocket and drop the oil pan.
              I second what tominmo said. I have always had that same thing with my car. I had an oil pressure guage and it had nothing to do with the pressure, that was just fine. Its the valve lash adjusters taking longer to fill because the oil is too thick. Try thinner oil like he said.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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