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  • Timing marks and setting timing...

    Stupid Timing Marks! I swear I thought I had it dead on. Triple checked, everything looked good.

    After trying to figure out why I seemed to have lower power I finally decided to take it back 1 tooth, and presto! I swear they don't seem to line perfectly up at 12 and 3 at the top. It seems like it needs to be slightly back a touch. Oh well, just thought I would pass along the info in case anyone else is having a similar issue. Car idled and drove perfectly fine even being off a tooth.

    The only problem I am having now is setting the timing. The whole reason I set the timing belt again is that I couldn't seem to get the timing marks even close to the timing guide on the lower timing belt cover. It seemed to max out just a little ahead of the bottom timing pointer. If I went full advanced on the distributor it would begin to bog down and then stall. I reset the timing belt (which improved power through the entire power band) but the timing marks are still maxing out just past the bottom timing mark pointer!?

    I am grounding out the STI connector and it's not jumping around, but it will not go any further than stated. I even tried a different distributor to confirm that was not the problem. No detonation where I have it, but just can't seem to get the marks where they should be. Freakin' weird.
    - Form should follow function...

  • #2
    It wouldn't be tuning if you didn't have to change anything. You may have to use number one piston to check the accuracy of that lower mark.
    Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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    • #3
      Thanks Movin... Worth a check to make sure.
      - Form should follow function...

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      • #4
        Timing marks and setting timing...

        I'm in this same boat as we speak. I put everything dead on. And my timing marks on the #1 cylinder are hitting at -10 degrees Tdc unlike where the cover hits at +10. I think my belt is off I just did a head gasket. The car idles and starts fine. But it feels like it's low on power and I can feel the ignition curve more than normal. Like the the car takes awhile to take off. I'm thinking it's just a tooth off but wondering if maybe it's 180 out or something.
        Last edited by Flyin4stroke; 10-02-2015, 06:51 PM.
        1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI

        1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow

        1996 Ford F-150

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        • #5
          The dizzy only goes in one way though, doesn't it?
          Last edited by SiliconSoul; 10-02-2015, 08:41 PM.
          - Form should follow function...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by SiliconSoul View Post
            The dizzy only goes in one way though, doesn't it?
            Yup, the end that the rotor goes on wont fit over the camshaft.
            lol.
            Anyway, i have the same thing with the marks on my crank and camshaft not quite 100% lining up. They are very close, but not dead on. I have no issues with power though, might even be makin 64hp the way it feels!


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              Check Tdc . I have seen a lot off crank keys moving , might want to pull that apart and look as well .
              New build on the way .

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              • #8
                2 tips if you make a positive stop for number 1 cylinder from a wooden Dowell turn clockwise till you touch your stop.Make a mark turn counter clockwise till you touch your stop TDC is exactly in the middle between your marks if your factory marks don' lines up then, check your crank key.When I take apart an engine that is in time I mark the pulleys and belt with paint dots if your dots match on assembly your gold. If changing the belt count the teeth between the marks you made on the old belt and transfer marks to the new belt.Works every time first try.
                Last edited by ricko1966; 10-03-2015, 06:09 AM.
                30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ricko1966 View Post
                  2 tips if you make a positive stop for number 1 cylinder from a wooden Dowell turn clockwise till you touch your stop.Make a mark turn counter clockwise till you touch your stop TDC is exactly in the middle between your marks if your factory marks don' lines up then, check your crank key.When I take apart an engine that is in time I mark the pulleys and belt with paint dots if your dots match on assembly your gold. If changing the belt count the teeth between the marks you made on the old belt and transfer marks to the new belt.Works every time first try.
                  P.S. make sure your distributor is actually advancing and regarding hook up a timing light point it at your marks blip the throttle timing should advance, if distributor isn't advancing and retarding changing base timing is just masking the real problem.
                  30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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                  • #10
                    I am going to do a timing belt change soon and the manual talks about clocking the sprockets and it seems from the chatter here all the issues being had.
                    My question is, do I have to touch the sprockets at all, can't I just pull off the old belt and install the new regardless where the sprockets are positioned if I DON'T
                    move anything after I remove the old belt and put the new one on?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ECCustom View Post
                      I am going to do a timing belt change soon and the manual talks about clocking the sprockets and it seems from the chatter here all the issues being had.
                      My question is, do I have to touch the sprockets at all, can't I just pull off the old belt and install the new regardless where the sprockets are positioned if I DON'T
                      move anything after I remove the old belt and put the new one on?
                      You can't get the old belt off the bottom sprocket in the way you are thinking. The sprocket has a shoulder on the outside, and there is not enough clearance between this shoulder and the bottom curve of the block to get the belt off.
                      Last edited by TominMO; 10-03-2015, 08:42 AM.
                      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                      09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                      You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

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                      • #12
                        It's soooo much fun..
                        Not really
                        1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI

                        1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow

                        1996 Ford F-150

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