How to eliminate front chassis flex / creaking sound?

[14carrot]

This probably explains why my tires wear so fast..

Sent from my ALCATEL A845L using Tapatalk

[Click_It]

I've been wondering this for awhile... Might have to go find a festiva sway and put that back in and see how the goes. At least the rear is still aspire upgraded so all won't be lost.

Hmmm.

[Movin]

just poking you I know you like them down some, I did too for 30 years ( cars pick-ups, vans )
Having a stiff sway bar is good on track conditions but if driving with a good bit of spirit in country roads that are not as smooth a stiff sway bar is more likely to cause both front tires to lose traction momentarily instead of just the one encountering undesirable asphalt. Tradeoffs!

[200KGPGTP]

I wouldn't mind watching a video of the noise.

I get a pretty bad clunk in the front coming out of driveways and whatnot with all new aspire stuff. I can't figure out what it is.

[Click_It]

I wouldn't mind watching a video of the noise.

I get a pretty bad clunk in the front coming out of driveways and whatnot with all new aspire stuff. I can't figure out what it is.

Okay I'm back home for a few days now so I'll do that video this weekend for you. As I said it only occurred after doing the Aspire swap (front and back) but I always wondered if the Aspire sway bar was a perfect fit or not, and since it's been pointed out above that it's not a perfect fit my money is on that being the cause and solution to this problem.

I figure if that is the problem and I go back to a festy bar then at least I still have the rest of the Aspire swap (bigger front/rear brakes, bigger rear axle with built-in sway bar etc) so it's not like I'd be going back to stock, I'll just lose some stiffness in the front handling but remove the chassis stress and maybe give me more tire life too.

All this is assuming the sway bar is the culprit. It makes sense to look at that rather than reinforcing the chassis with additional front core support since these bars are kinda wrong for the car anyway.

So I'll do that video soon.

Final question - is there another sway bar, like a FMS Festy bar out there I could look into?

[bhazard]

Its pretty much been proven that the aspire sway bar is detrimental to handling (causes more oversteer) and the rear bar also undermines the idea of the rear beam design.

[Click_It]

Its pretty much been proven that the aspire sway bar is detrimental to handling (causes more oversteer) and the rear bar also undermines the idea of the rear beam design.

What if I go stock at the front but leave aspire rear bar, would that be a big issue or fairly unnoticeable?

[nitrofarm]

What if I go stock at the front but leave aspire rear bar, would that be a big issue or fairly unnoticeable?

This would be much better,at least you wont be binding the front control arms.You could stud the front Rotors use spacers to get the same wheel base in the front.

[Click_It]

This would be much better,at least you wont be binding the front control arms.You could stud the front Rotors use spacers to get the same wheel base in the front.

What happens if you don't match the wheel base front and back, will it create an alignment/balance problem?

[Movin]

No it will not but if you use any of our toe set methods, the do it yourself ones that include the front and rear together your toe will be off.

To set the toe with different wheels or widths you need to spin each front tire and scribe a line. I use light colored paint and spin the tire painting the tread. Then scribe the paint with a nail driven through a heavy chunk of wood.

When that is done you can roll the car back then forward again to achieve the natural stance of the suspension. Roll it back and forth with the car weighted like it will be with you driving it. Measure the scribed lines at exactly the same height on the front and on the rear of the front tires. I set the tape on a 2x6 but for cars on here they are low, a 2x4 maybe on the skinny side lol would be needed to fit under the car. How ever you do it, you want to measure at the same height front and rear.

If you have to adjust it some get that done then roll the car one more time to relax the front end for a final check measure.

Strings, pipes, all this front to rear stuff have to have the same wheels, tires and width of axle for them to work.
Of course alignment shop stuff will identify the difference and set everything accurately and print out what you did too lol.

[Click_It]

I wouldn't mind watching a video of the noise.

I get a pretty bad clunk in the front coming out of driveways and whatnot with all new aspire stuff. I can't figure out what it is.

Here is the sound, sorry it took me so long.

http://puu.sh/l2CGs/3c0b74b474.m4a

That's just rolling down my driveway, over a small curb drop and back in reverse. It doesn't capture everything I hear but gives you some idea I hope.

I'm half tempted to just ignore it, I don't know what sort of long term damage is being done though.

[nitrofarm]

Sounds like something from the movie "Moby Dick"?