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  • Removing Steering Rack

    I'm removing the steering rack because I just can't get to the boots on the end of the rack while it is in the car. (I've tried.) I just can't get the big end of the boot over the rack end.

    Is it necessary to remove the steering column to do this? Factory manual says yes, Haynes doesn't mention it. Haynes says you should remove the catalytic converter. All I see at the junction of the rack and the column is a rubber boot, which is behind fuel lines, brake lines and the fuel filter. (So I can barely get to it also).

    Please tell me your experiences.

  • #2
    you mean teh 24mm nut that holds the inner tierod on? ....why don't you just pull the wheels off
    ---------------------------------------------------
    The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
    ---------------------------------------------------
    BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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    • #3
      I got the wheels off. I got the hubs off. I got the outer tie rod ends off. I actually got the outer end of the steering rack end boot on in the correct spot. I just can't get the inner end of the boot over the steering rack end. I'm using the motormite universal boot. I spose it might be a problem of using too small of a opening on the inner end of the boot. There are three steps to the boot: 1) Very bloody small opening. 2) Moderate opening. 3) Large Opening. I'm concerned that if I go to the largest opening, the boot may not seal. I know that if I got the rack off I could get the moderate sized boot end opening over the end of the rack, but it ain't working in the inaccessible spot it's in now.

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      • #4
        you don't have to remove the column. loosen the joint under the dash where they connect, and have one person inside while you remove it thru the firewall.
        it's hard being cool.
        88 Festiva L
        99 V92C

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        • #5
          I had to change my whole rack out so i just put my boots on before i put my other rack in , it dont take that long to take the whole thing out i also used the motormite boots as well, i think i had to trim my down a bit too.

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          • #6
            i replaced my rack, and did the boots once it was one. however i didn't use the motor-mite boots.

            the only way i coudl get taht rubber boot on the firewall off was to cut it; so i just cut up one side of it. then take the pinch-bolt out of the universal joint, slide the rack off of the splines. you dont need to take the cat off!!! its not that hard to manuver the cat out, and if your putting the same one back in you shouldn't ahve any problems.

            i replaced mine (91) with one from an 88/89 and the design is slightly different, and slightly smaller spline peice that goes on the steering rack.... took two of us and a bunch of work.

            if i were you i'd try to put the boots on inside a bit more, its not worth the effort of taking the whole steering rack out. just my thought.
            ~Nate

            the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

            Current cars:
            91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
            1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
            2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

            FOTY 2008 winner!

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            • #7
              i just recently got and installed boot from napa that went right on. i'll see if i can find the part # and add later.
              91 u.s. festiva L 189423 mi. GL int. , engine started smoking [sold]
              93 u.s. festiva gl 222000 mi. bad engine , parts car [sold]
              1981 ford F-100 400000+ miles ? , looks rough - runs good
              1963 1/2 Ford Falcon 4 door base model , 106000 original miles , second owners

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              • #8
                You might try just taking the two U clamps off and see if you can get the rack far enough away from the firewall to get it on.
                If not and you have to pull the rack out, look inside the car at the bottom of the steering column and you will see the top of the universal to the rack.
                Take the bolt out there.
                But getting it back in is the only thing that has made me #$%*& on this car.
                ~Jeff
                1988 Festiva LX Silver 5speed. 219,000 miles. My new daily driver.
                1988 Festiva L Plus Red 2brl 4speed. 504,477 miles and holding till I get the speed-o fixed.
                2003 Mustang GT 5speed

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                • #9
                  Steering rack hell.

                  Well, I don't know what ever made me think I could do this job. Argh!!!! I got the steering column disconnected from the rack (I suppose the "lower shaft"). I got all the bolts (4) in the rack holder out. I'm tugging and tugging on the rack housing and it ain't moving more than 1 inch or so to the right or left. I just can't get down there behind the fuel filter and all of the other assorted garbage to see what the rack housing is hanging up on. I suppose it has to be the steering gear shaft coming out of the top of the rack housing. All of that assembly is hidden inside of a black rubber boot that is hanging off of the firewall. I've been trying to pry it up to see what is inside but I haven't had any luck so far. I actually know what is inside because I have the factory manual.

                  This has gotten to the point where I should just stop and shoot myself in the head.

                  Does anyone have any suggestions?

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                  • #10
                    I had to slice the boot on mine to get to the inside, mine is fuel injected i just pulled the rack straight up from behind the motor and out the top, a carb one might be a little harder i dont no.

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                    • #11
                      Steering rack hell.

                      Oh yeah, another thing that appears to be blocking moving the rack is the gear shift cable (automatic transmission). To remove the rack the factory manual (and haynes) say to pull the catalytic converter. Oh yeah right. I couldn't disconnect the rear at all because I can't get a shot into it with an impact wrench. Something about trying to use a acetylene torch under a car where I'm inches away from gas lines frightens me a bit, though if this keeps going like this I'm going to take my torch and cut off the front clip to get the rack out because I'm tired of this crap.

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                      • #12
                        I haven't even thought of pulling it out the top. This is fuel injected.

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                        • #13
                          slide all the way to the right(passenger side) and pull it straight up u will have to work the driverside inner tierod end around the small radiator haose on the back of the motor i had mine out in about 15 mins and back in just as fast. i even done it by myself.

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                          • #14
                            Did you pull off the tierods? It seems too long to get out from the top otherwise.

                            By the way, thanks for your help bigtime. I'll tackle it again tomorrow morn,.

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                            • #15
                              I didnt have to pull tie rod ends but it does make it easier to get out, but be sure u mark where the tie rod end is on the rack take some white out or white paint on a small brush and mark it right behind the tie rod end before u take it off. If u slide it all the way over to the right it should come out the part on the rack that the steering column hooks to will need to come threw the hole, but it will not come all the way out of the hole, once u get the shaft (what the steering hooks too) threw that hole on the passenger side it will come straight up and out. without taking the tie rod end off, which ever is easiest for u.

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