Leaking coolant immediately on cold starts only (pics included)

[Click_It]

This started recently. When the car is warm it won't lose a drop but when I first start it up it's drips considerably until warm. Since ambient temps here are 80-90f that doesn't take long luckily.

The radiator hoses and clamps are all in good condition. The photos clearly show where it's coming from - is that the heater pipe? Whatever it is, it comes out of that pronounced join. Is some welding required?

One final note - I completed a radiator flush a few weeks ago but ran out of demineralized water so the mixture is about 70/30 (coolant to water) rather than the 50/50 mixture I usually run. Could this high concentration be a contributing factor?

Looking through the grill:


Looking up from below:

[zoe60]

There's an O ring in there. Install a new one and you should be fine. Hard to find but a new water pump comes with one.

[Click_It]

There's an O ring in there. Install a new one and you should be fine. Hard to find but a new water pump comes with one.

Oh gosh really? Thanks for the quick reply. It's all solid piping, how would I go about getting an o-ring fitted in there? Wouldn't it be easier to have the gap welded shut?

Must be the heater pipe as it wraps around and goes through the firewall on the other side.

Being in Australia (right hand drive) I'm not sure if this piping exactly the same as your cars. There are some differences (such as master cylinder on the opposite side in ours).

[Click_It]

Took some clearer photos (photo taken after coolant leak has dried off)

[TominMO]

That's the bypass tube that goes under the exhaust manifold.
-- drain coolant
-- remove tube (easier if you remove disty first--mark head and disty so you put it back the same)
-- remove metal piece that connects tube, water pump, and lower rad hose (optional)
-- go find appropriate O-ring (NAPA is probably your best bet)
-- install O-ring, install tube into metal piece; (optional--use high-temp silicon also, and let it cure a day (easier if you removed the metal piece))
-- re-install parts, fill coolant, done

Need a new thermostat? Now's the time.

I don't bother re-connecting the tab on the bypass tube that goes to the exhaust manifold; no real need.

Much simpler plan, at least temporarily--just fill the area where the O-ring goes in with silicon; let it cure overnight. You might be able to do it without removing anything.

[Click_It]

Much simpler plan, at least temporarily--just fill the area where the O-ring goes in with silicon; let it cure overnight. You might be able to do it without removing anything.

Thanks for the step-by-step information!

And you read my mind, I was wondering how some strategically placed high temperature silicone would go. There's probably no harm in trying that method first, I already have the silicone from the valve cover gasket I replaced recently.

[Click_It]

Just been talking to some mechanics, everyone reckons I'd be wasting my time trying to seal with silicone, being pressurized it's not going to help. But trying has to be better than doing nothing...

I have to get the car 600 miles from here in a few days time (moving home) and this happens. Time starved, money poor... Will probably have to take the chance and arm myself with lots of coolant just in case. So far it seems to stop leaking when hot, how long I can rely on that continuing is what scares me.

A few people suggested trying leak treatments in the coolant but I can't see that fixing this problem, it's not your typical hairline crack.

[Movin]

The big bottle of stop leak will serve you better than anything else except repair. It may get you home. Flush it out and repair but be prepared to deal with rust pits around the oring. The big bottle of liquid will not plug things up as bad as the small tubes of solid stuff . Make sure it has not settled to the bottom and turned solid by squeezing up and down the bottle before you buy it.

[ryanprins13]

Stop leak just makes a huge mess of your head, heater core and radiater. Its garbage. If you dont want to replace the 50 cent o-ring then go to an auto parts store buy some 2 part metal repair adhesive. Im having a mental block and cant remember what its called. It comes in a cylinder shape and is grey usually. Looks like the non-hardning model clay does. 2 components, mash together, stick on and it will handle a lot of pressure, cures rock hard. Make sure to clean and sand the are first though so it has somethig to grip


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[jimdigs]

I had the exact same leak. I used this stop. Never leaked again. But like everyone else will say...do it right. BUT.....if ya don't wanna mess with it and be like me and take the easy way out this stuff worked for me. Got it off of ebay. The haynes manual recommends this for radiator leaks.

[Click_It]

Thanks guys.

I ended up getting a mechanic on the phone who said to bring it around and they'd have a quick look at it. They said the same thing about the stop leak products. So I had 2 options, use a sealant and hope for the best (I've heard people doing this and 4 years later all good, I've also heard the opposite) or do the job right.

I've chosen to do it right but didn't want to tackle it myself so I'm going to get help from a mechanic tomorrow.

The big problem was the o ring. I actually found a Ford Dealership can order it in for $6 but it wouldn't arrive until too late. The mechanic has a bunch of generic o rings so I'm hoping one of those should do the job. It's not like an AC o ring, it should be pretty clear cut, right?

The only other problem is if it's all rusted out inside. I'm expecting rust on a 22yo part but is there any chance it'll be rusted beyond repair? I hope not.

I've gotta say this leak was unexpected! Of the things you'd expect to go wrong in a Festiva this wasn't in my top 100. Serves me right for commenting the other day about how damn reliable the Festiva has been lately. Jinxed myself.

I'll report back tomorrow when it is hopefully all repaired.

Oh BTW, am I dancing with fire by not replacing the thermostat? It's working fine right now and I can't get the part in time for the work tomorrow. Ordinarily I know it's a no-brainer to replace it while I'm there.

[Flyin4stroke]

Don't put stop leak in the system over a $.50 oring. You are broke but would rather spend $10 on chemical than $.50 and about 10 min on fixing it right. Put grease around the new oring it will help seal and help the pieces go back together upon reassembly.

[Movin]

mis read? lol..put the larger liquid in to get away from expensive shops and get home...what only 600 miles? There you have time and a place to flush the stop leak and other junk out then repair the car correctly without these time restraints. Is stop leak a repair ? No, it is like a spare tire, it will get you home so you can get it fixed without paying top dollar for emergency rates. If you are staying there then that is another story..

[jimdigs]

My O ring came loose when changing the thermostat. Was moving the tube around some when taking out the old thermostat. So if I were you I would put the thermostat in before or at the same time as when the O ring is fixed.

[bolokid]

I had the same problem. Either Kia or Mazda had the correct O-ring in stock for about $1.00. I cannot remember which dealership.