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  • Drum brakes

    Hey guys,

    I've been replacing the rear brakes on my 88, new shoes springs, and repacked the bearings. I'm trying to put the drum back on, but I'm having two issues.

    The shoes seems to rub no matter how I move the shoes around. The drum will spin but not super freely, both sides will spin but drag. Its the original drums so maybe it is just warped from heat?

    The nut doesn't want to thread properly on the spindel on either side. I can get a few turns and then it won't go more without a wrench. I'm thinking the threads on the spindel are worn out or won't line up with the nut.

    Here is what the right (reverse thread) side looks like. Thoughts?

    Right drum.jpg

    Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    I have had to manually trip the self adjuster mechanism to max unloaded position to get the drums back on and spinning. If the grease seal isn't seated properly, it can drag a little, too. That spindle's thread is pretty ugly. You are aware that the right spindle is, or should be, left handed thread and requires that special nut.
    "Blue92"- 92L 5 spd, original owner- 185K, B8,DD..
    "Pedro"-88L 5-spd, B6D (built by Advancedynamix)
    "Blanca"-92 GL auto, 125K(FM8 Lowest Miles)- B6 daughter's DD
    "Tractor Blue"- 89 L auto, 110K
    "Chester"-88 LX, runs but not street legal
    "Wenona"-89L parts car
    "Flame"- 89 LX 5 spd ,parts car

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    • #3
      I have had the same issue before getting drums back on.I guess i must have just kept playing til it work out.Spindle threads can be improved using a small 3/4 file.I have purchased new nuts for 5 bucks at auto zone but it took several tries to get the right side backward thread nut as they have them listed wrong and i kept getting the left side nut.Same issue at Oreilly,s.

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      • #4
        The metric file costs the same..?
        Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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        • #5
          I use a broken hacksaw blade to freshen threads. Cleaning with a wire brush can help but yours looks impeccable.
          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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          • #6
            Did you replace the wheel cylinder recently? I once bought a wheel cylinder that must have been just slightly oversized and it wouldnt let the pads push in far enough


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              Thanks for your thoughts guys, I haven't done this before so good to hear some feedback.

              Jawja, when I first put everything back together and it was dragging, I pulled it apart and adjusted the self-adjuster. This made a huge difference. I believe it is now max unloaded position. I hadn't thought of the grease seal, maybe I will pull it apart again and see if it hasn't seated properly. When I put the inner bearing into the drum with the grease seal, it was flush with the inner part of the drum. I then put the drum back on the spindel and pushed it up against the back of hub backing plate. Then the put the inner bearing and washer on the spindel. I understand the process from here is to tighten the nut until the hub doesn't spin freely and then back it off until it does then crush the nut. I've seen helpful posts here on this topic.

              jfd64 and wmwatt, I did clean up the spindel to try and make the nut thread better, but it hasn't seemed to help. I think you can get a dye set that cleans the threads and refreshes them. The file / hacksaw would do the same thing right? I got new crush nuts, one reverse threaded as far I know. It seems to start but not go far so I think they gave me the correct one.

              Ryanprins13, yes I did replace the wheel cylinders, both seemed shot. If they are slightly too big, maybe this is part of the problem. Did you just drive the car until the brake shoes wore down enough not to drag. This is my plan if I can get this thing back together. . .

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              • #8
                Originally posted by V3ST View Post

                Ryanprins13, yes I did replace the wheel cylinders, both seemed shot. If they are slightly too big, maybe this is part of the problem. Did you just drive the car until the brake shoes wore down enough not to drag. This is my plan if I can get this thing back together. . .
                Lol, no, i went back to a different store and bought another which fit fine. If you drive with it rubbing much it will heat the drum, pads and everything else to temperatures they shouldnt be...


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                • #9
                  I have done a couple with the file and one that was pretty bad with that and a file kit i borrowed from auto zone.When i re ~install drums i make sure not to overtighten,leave the grease cap off,drive a few miles and readjust.

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                  • #10
                    I've got a very slight chirping I think may be a bearing- though I don't know where yet- so I bought full bearings front and back and fron't seals at this point- about $50 total-

                    I see some relatively inexpensive new brake drums for sale and the pads haven't been replaced since I've had the car 35K to 117K

                    I'm wondering if it's easier to do the bearings if I get the back brakes done at the same time?

                    Does a new set of drums make the job easier? I'm assuming then the bearings don't have to be removed from the old drums-
                    Haven't seen the pads yet, but figure if I have new pads and drums it should last a long time especially the way I drive.
                    should I get new hardware too? any thoughts?

                    saw a video on youtube where a guy heated the drum in an oven and put the bearings in the fridge- or was it the other way around? - and they just sort of melted down into the bearing slot. maybe I'll search it.

                    Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXx0oXyEq2k

                    watch it at about 8:40 on especially.
                    Last edited by harpon; 10-31-2015, 04:30 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Rear bearings are easy to knock out with a punch. There are 4 grooves in the hub. The mileage would not necessarily wear out the drums. Mine at 175k were fine. The hardware is probably ok, too, and if something is shot, the kits are probably available at Mcparts.
                      "Blue92"- 92L 5 spd, original owner- 185K, B8,DD..
                      "Pedro"-88L 5-spd, B6D (built by Advancedynamix)
                      "Blanca"-92 GL auto, 125K(FM8 Lowest Miles)- B6 daughter's DD
                      "Tractor Blue"- 89 L auto, 110K
                      "Chester"-88 LX, runs but not street legal
                      "Wenona"-89L parts car
                      "Flame"- 89 LX 5 spd ,parts car

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                      • #12
                        Poor man's rear wheel bearing presser

                        Here (see photo) is how I plan on pressing new bearings into new drums I bought.

                        The sockets are 1/2" drive and cost $20 for the pair at Sears, with the 1/2" bolt another few bucks at Home Depot.

                        I'll probably do one bearings at a time to keep things as square as possible.

                        I may still freeze the bearings, but I think it'll all go in very easily

                        For those who don't own Imperial tools, a 19mm wrench fits the 1/2" nut perfectly.
                        Attached Files
                        88L black, dailydriver
                        88LX silver a/c, dailydriver
                        4 88/89 disassembled
                        91L green
                        91GL aqua pwrsteer
                        92GL red a/c reardmg
                        3 93L blue, 2 dailydriver, 1 frontdmg
                        1952 Cessna170B floatplane

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                        • #13
                          If you have time and something else to drive i would pull the drums,inspect and then decide what looks like it needs to be replaced.New parts arent always better parts.

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                          • #14
                            Drum brakes

                            Originally posted by jfd64 View Post
                            New parts arent always better parts.
                            That cannot be stressed enough...
                            I got my drums turned/machined for $15 each about 5 years ago. I since moved and phoned local shops to see how much it would be to do for my civic. Once I finally found one that knew what i meant they wanted $50/drum. Lol. But new drums on my civic turned out ok.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            Last edited by ryanprins13; 11-01-2015, 11:27 PM.

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                            • #15
                              Well I've done a quickie half assed change of the outer bearing- not the race which didn't appear scoured- The old bearings feel as if they have a slight issue- the wheel rocked very slightly side to side-

                              I really just started out to have a look and if I could get the bolt off-

                              The old 1/2 drive Spark Plug socket came to the rescue again- an old big one- not the little 3/8 in the cheap sets- Had this Craftsman since 1968 and if fit perfectly-
                              No torque at all on the nut anyway

                              I was going to pull the drum apart- but it wasn't coming very easy and finally when it was almost there I was really wondering if I'd be able to get it back on-

                              so I made the decision- stuck in a new $6 outer bearing into the old unscoured race, stuffed it with grease and put it back in- put the wheel on and took it for a test-

                              darn - still a chirp- very slight- not sure if I got the right side, or perhaps it's the inner bearing.

                              So what I've decided IS new parts- drum and pads and hardware and cylinder- I'll get the bearings put in on both sides and have the brakes rebuilt.

                              If it chirps-guess it's the front!

                              sounds like the back somewhere though- got a little piece of mind about that side now though- so I think I bought some time- a $6 gamble I'm willing to take- I was starting to lose light and I was getting bug bit still- great weather though- sunny 85- that'll change soon.

                              much better idea of what I'm dealing with here. Is the drum usually difficult to slide back on?

                              Wouldn't have minded a glimpse at the pads, but maybe on the other side- I don't plan on doing that myself- exhausting for an old coot! But better to get a new race on I guess and see what the inner bearings might take.
                              Do the pads and hardware have to come off to change the inner bearings?

                              a better jack would be nice- but don't have much of a place for it otherwise. I may do the same on the other side and see if that does the chirp.
                              Last edited by harpon; 11-02-2015, 04:35 PM.

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