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Quick Question: Have to bleed the brakes when replacing rear shoes?

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  • Quick Question: Have to bleed the brakes when replacing rear shoes?

    I guess if you replace the calipers you'd of course have to bleed the brakes-

    but do you have to do that if installing pads and new hardware otherwise?

    Is it like the front pads- that have to be bled, or can you change the shoes without it?

    :festiva:

    Last edited by harpon; 11-11-2015, 01:32 AM.

  • #2
    If you don't introduce air into the brake lines, bleeding is not required. Take a good picture of the spring configuration before you remove the rear shoes and simply reinstall in reverse order.
    "Fred" 93 Festiva L B6-ME Swap
    “Though he is small, he is but fierce.”

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    • #3
      Bleeding is not required when changing pads and shoes but if the Brake fluid is rather old I would recommend bleeding the lines because the fluid gets quite dirty.
      20151021_201557.jpg
      This fluid came out of the Festiva I just recently purchased.
      Last edited by firebush357; 11-11-2015, 07:04 AM. Reason: Typo
      "The White Turd" 1993 Festiva 144k miles. (Winner of FOTM November 2016)
      sigpic
      "The Rusty Banana" 1990 Yellow 5 Speed Mud Festiva (Lifted with 27" BKT Tractor Tires)(Winner of "Best Beater Award" - Madness 12 - 2018)

      "Papa Smurf" 1992 Blue 5 Speed Shell
      "Cracker?" (name pending) 1992 White Auto Shell (Future BP Swap)
      "Green Car..." Scrap Car that Runs?!?
      "Red Car..." Complete Scrap Car

      "El Flama Blanca" 1993 Festiva 104k miles. (Lil Brothers Car)
      https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzM...ew?usp=sharing

      Comment


      • #4
        Well they're for my 96 Aspire- 117K miles-

        I got some new brake drums- just came today and have new bearings for each side- Can I get those races pressed on at a shop, and how much would something like run?

        I was going to put those on and have a look at theshoes, to see if I could postpone a brake job for awhile.

        the races don't slide in with normal pressue and sit in a recess in the drums, so i'd need something hollw of the right diameter and different on both sides.

        I'm assuming there's some kind of special tool?

        Something's chirping slightly- sounds like a bearig and I can't quite tell- sounds mostly like the rear end so I may have 60-70 oercent chance of getting it by changing the back- but I have the fronts and may have to seek getting those put in.

        I can also get some rear brake cylinders on the cheap- the car doesn't leak any fluid (or use or leak any fluid of any kind at this point! never a drop of oil yet)

        so I'm wondering if I should have the calipers replaced- I'll probably hire a mobile mechanic- should I go further maintenance on calipers that aren't leaking,
        or if it ain't broke, don't fix? I could also buy the calipers now and hold them-

        but there are downsides to that- not so much worried over price increases as availability, and more maintenance- down the road.
        Last edited by harpon; 11-11-2015, 06:05 PM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by firebush357 View Post
          Bleeding is not required when changing pads and shoes but if the Brake fluid is rather old I would recommend bleeding the lines because the fluid gets quite dirty.
          Unless you use silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid does not absorb water and rust the brake lines from the inside out.
          Last edited by bravekozak; 11-11-2015, 09:10 PM.

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          • #6
            I am confused are you doing rear drums and bearings? If so all you need to change the bearings is a hammer a punch and your old bearings and races to drive in your new races, front rotors calipers and bearings I pull the axle run a slide hammer through where the axle went yank the hub and spacer everything goes back easy with a hammer some sockets and wood blocks. Be sure to use the bearing spacer
            30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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            • #7
              Using the old races to drive the new is a great idea I hadn't thought of- but I am putting new bearings into new drums and so the old stuff is on the car and hasn't been taken apart.

              I am hoping to put the new drums and bearings on, and then checking the shoes then to see if it's worth having someone do the shoes and hardware,

              and still debating about whether to get new calipers.

              I am older and suffering from hypertension so I don't want to get much into a brake job, but I think I can get the new drum and bearings on and have a look-

              if there's any unforeseen problem I can put the old drum back on I guess but probably won't have to, right?

              I now have the races in the drums, and just where is this spacer you speak of?

              Also curious as to what kind of seal is on the inner bearing- I only see one seal listed and two of them came with the front set I got- they look like they sit over the top of the bearing recess instead of down on the bearing like in the Haynes pictures?

              I'll have to see the old ones and if they are different- hope I can use them.

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              • #8
                The spacer is in between the bearings in the front there were different thicknesses to accomadate for manufacturing tolerances of the hubs and steering knuckles if you are using your original hub,knuckle,and spacer you'll be fine just be sure to reuse the spacer and buy name brand bearings.
                30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                  Unless you use silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid does not absorb water and rust the brake lines from the inside out.
                  Cool, I did not know that.
                  "The White Turd" 1993 Festiva 144k miles. (Winner of FOTM November 2016)
                  sigpic
                  "The Rusty Banana" 1990 Yellow 5 Speed Mud Festiva (Lifted with 27" BKT Tractor Tires)(Winner of "Best Beater Award" - Madness 12 - 2018)

                  "Papa Smurf" 1992 Blue 5 Speed Shell
                  "Cracker?" (name pending) 1992 White Auto Shell (Future BP Swap)
                  "Green Car..." Scrap Car that Runs?!?
                  "Red Car..." Complete Scrap Car

                  "El Flama Blanca" 1993 Festiva 104k miles. (Lil Brothers Car)
                  https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzM...ew?usp=sharing

                  Comment

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