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My 1989 festiva won't start after it gets warm

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  • My 1989 festiva won't start after it gets warm

    Any ideas on why my festiva won't start back up after driving it? If I go to the store and shut my car off I'll come out a few minutes later and it won't start, it usually takes me several attempts to get it started, I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, strainer, fuel diaphragm, and still no luck, it turns over but won't start after being driven. It's got spark when it happens and I can smell fuel. If I unplug the IACV it konks out. Any insight would be great! We love this car, would like to figure it out.

  • #2
    Check engine light coming on?
    - Form should follow function...

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    • #3
      What color is the spark? Where are you checking it?


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      "Fred" 93 Festiva L B6-ME Swap
      “Though he is small, he is but fierce.”

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      • #4
        Could be the coolant temp. sensor.

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        • #5
          Lol... I was thinking that, but I think thats my goto answer for some problems!

          Carby can be such a pain for vacuum leaks though...
          - Form should follow function...

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          • #6
            Is the choke shut when this happens.you have spark and smell fuel I would have to think your plugs are getting wet from too much fuel
            30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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            • #7
              I'd sart by giving the carb and ignition components a good cleaning. Spray the carb and linkages with carb cleaner. Wipe the igniton wires, dist cap, ignition coil with a clean rag, clean and gap spark plugs. Minor tuneup.
              Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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              • #8
                It has spark ,, the temp send unit is a little wiggly but when I unplug it the fan turns on so I thought it is fine I am leaning toward iacv ....ugh frustrated this was the most reliable car ever and after the fuel work done it fell to Crap all of a sudden

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                • #9
                  Interrsting... My temp sensor was wiggley too when it went bad. It corrodes inside and causes an intermitant connection. That being said, it did trigger a check engine light sometimes.
                  - Form should follow function...

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                  • #10
                    The other day i put new plus and plug wires and a new temp sending unit. Still having the issue, by the time i figure it out everything will be brand new haha. next I'm going to have the timing checked. I'm running out of ideas.

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                    • #11
                      I would bet its the cap. Mine does the same. Mine is a 91 fi tho. On mine when it does not start i just pull the dissy cap off and give all the metal parts a hit with sand paper then clean them. My b6t is going to solve that issue tho.

                      I dont know about the carb version tho. My carb festivas never had a problem.

                      Clean the cap and contacts and see if that helps.

                      When mine does it ill get a stronger fuel smell the longer i crank it. If i pull the cap clean it boom it fires right back up.
                      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

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                      • #12
                        I pulled into my drive way shut it off thinking i left my phone inside. Found my phone on the center console. Went to start the car less then 10 seconds after shuting it off and it would only crank over. After almost killing the batter i pulled the cap just to look. It looked like crap so i cleaned it and back together it went. Started better then before. I have done that 3 times now.


                        Time for a cap but im getting the CAPRI XR2 TOMORROW.
                        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

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                        • #13
                          i checked the cap it was nice and clean but i did re-clean it, that wasn't the issues either. I'm completely baffled. I appreciate all the advice. eventually i'll figure it out if i don't get rid of the car first lol

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                          • #14
                            When you are talking the temp sending sensor, are you talking about the one near the valve cover at the back passenger side?
                            - Form should follow function...

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                            • #15
                              No I'm talking about the temp sensor that goes into the block next to the one that turns the fan on and off.

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