Jab, jab and lubricate. Can I buy some bearing time?

[cburkett65]

Why do you think its the bearings. A chirp does not sound like a bearing. If bearings are making nose they most often get worse. I would say its more like a roar and least when they get bad enough.

[harpon]

Its a more ringing sound than a chirp, rather constant- perhaps increasing slowly.
I think metal on metal and rolling free wheel related not tranny, sounds like a bearing to me- there rolling free, probably scoring the race gradually.

I don't drive much or hard, but now even less.
Not sure how long it has actually been there because I couldn't hear it with the A/C on , I guess which was mostly through October.

It doesn't sound to be increasing quickly, but is something obviously needing attention eventually. There is no thumping nor bumping like there is any CV trouble now.
It seems dependent on the wheel roll alone and not related to turning or shifting or being in gear or not, it's simply there rolling. On the other hand the wheel isn't popping from side to side if I push on it, so it hasn't worn any play yet side to side.

[harpon]

Let me ask here to another question- In order to get the races out and new ones in is it usually necessary to get the knuckle off the ball joint at the bottom? Or are there special tool at a typical shop that would facilitate that?

[harpon]

Also looking at tie rod pullers-

Does anyone have a firm knowledge as to which size would work best- I have listings for pullers 27mm wide and 33 mm wide.

Is 27 wide enough?

Is 33 too many?
Inquiring minds want to know!

Not too bad at $12 to $20 dollars. It may pay to have one even if I can't do this procedure.
Looks like it would be better than to beat it with a hammer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP8zPGP_t1Y

Here's a 63 mm tie rod puller, which is the same measurement as the pitman puller in the video via net research at least

http://www.ebay.com/itm/33mm-63mm-Automobile-Car-Tie-Rod-End-and-Pitman-Auto-Arm-Puller-Remover-US-Stock-/281861015707?hash=item41a039c89b:g:U~YAAOSwwbdWMHY3&item=281861015707&vxp=mtr

Can anyone verify this size appropriate for an Aspire?

[ricko1966]

You do not need special tools to pop the tie rod or ball joint. Yes you do have to seperate the ball joint. A hi shark will do the bearings without removing the knuckle but it really is just as easy to remove the knuckle and do it on a bench.

[WmWatt]

Usual tests for wheel bearings are push and pull on top of tire and see if there is any play. Another is to drive down the road and swerve the car from right to left and listen for wheel noise. When my bearings were going I got a noise which could be described as rumbling or growling. There are videos on the Internet showing how to diagnose wheel bearing problems and front end noise in general.

[nitrofarm]

Harpon, I would recommence you remove your front knuckles & ship them to a member that has experience doing the front bearings. Most shops dont know how to do these.

[scitzz]

Harpon, I would recommence you remove your front knuckles & ship them to a member that has experience doing the front bearings. Most shops dont know how to do these.

Here here! Shops are TERRIBLE at doing these! they try to do them like they are a HonDUH.

You do not need special tools to pop the tie rod or ball joint. Yes you do have to seperate the ball joint. A hi shark will do the bearings without removing the knuckle but it really is just as easy to remove the knuckle and do it on a bench.

Also looking at tie rod pullers-

Does anyone have a firm knowledge as to which size would work best- I have listings for pullers 27mm wide and 33 mm wide.

Is 27 wide enough?

Is 33 too many?
Inquiring minds want to know!

Not too bad at $12 to $20 dollars. It may pay to have one even if I can't do this procedure.
Looks like it would be better than to beat it with a hammer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP8zPGP_t1Y

Here's a 63 mm tie rod puller, which is the same measurement as the pitman puller in the video via net research at least

http://www.ebay.com/itm/33mm-63mm-Automobile-Car-Tie-Rod-End-and-Pitman-Auto-Arm-Puller-Remover-US-Stock-/281861015707?hash=item41a039c89b:g:U~YAAOSwwbdWMHY3&item=281861015707&vxp=mtr

Can anyone verify this size appropriate for an Aspire?

Beating with a hammer is actually better, those pullers can sometimes mushroom the bottom of the threaded portion, causing nightmares.

Here is me and FestYboy a few years ago at Madness.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eywQFjKw52M

Make note, he loosened the nut, and ran it down a ways, but didn't remove it, you see him remove it at the end. This protects the threads in case you miss the knuckle with the hammer.

Its a more ringing sound than a chirp, rather constant- perhaps increasing slowly.
I think metal on metal and rolling free wheel related not tranny, sounds like a bearing to me- there rolling free, probably scoring the race gradually.

I don't drive much or hard, but now even less.
Not sure how long it has actually been there because I couldn't hear it with the A/C on , I guess which was mostly through October.

It doesn't sound to be increasing quickly, but is something obviously needing attention eventually. There is no thumping nor bumping like there is any CV trouble now.
It seems dependent on the wheel roll alone and not related to turning or shifting or being in gear or not, it's simply there rolling. On the other hand the wheel isn't popping from side to side if I push on it, so it hasn't worn any play yet side to side.

Your issue may not be bearings. You actually might be describing the sound of the brake pad warning tab touching the rotor. I call that a singing noise, sort of "Reeeereeeereeeereeeeeereeee" that goes up and down with speed.

Quick and dirty bearing diagnosis. Drive it a couple miles, feel center of hub, it shouldn't be very warm, if it is blistering hot, bad bearings likely.

Jack up car, grab tire and wobble it. Is there play? See if there is play at the ball joint, or the tie rod. If not, and it is loose both when you wobble with hands at noon and six, and also with hands at 3 and 9, likely bearing.

I don't mean you can turn the tire and make the steering wheel move, which should be possible in a smooth manner, but a clunk clunk clunk sort of play of about a 16th of an inch or so.

If you remove the steering knuckle, this is a quick and dirty way to get to the bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AafmZlpDy0A

[harpon]

Geez- it would be great if its the pads, but I replaced them about 20 k ago drive really light and have removed the back seat forever.

got a new floor jack though and will look at the calipers. Is there some way to make that stop temporarily if it is the warning tab, to confirm that? Where is the tab?
on the pads, or in between at the top?

Still checking it out- and I'll do those bearing tests you recommend- that knuckle bit is pretty intense-

thanks!

[scitzz]

They are pretty cheap pads we have available. 20K might do them in. Pull the wheel and just look is all I can say, the tab is part of the brake pad itself.

[harpon]

I believe it was the pads- in fact I pulled the drivers side wheel and was surprised the pads looked as compromised as they do- at 20 K or so since I did them and I drive very easily on them with no back seat and weight conscious otherwise. Anyway I lubricated the pad rods and sanded them off a bit in anticipation of a brake job soon.

The noise has been gone since- must've been a pad hanging up.

So anyway, now I've accumulated some new rotors- to go with the new drums and bearings on the back- the old rotors are a slight bit ribbed it appears
and also then some new calipers and pads I'll get installed and hopefully wont have to deal with it again for awhile.

it's better than having to get the front bearings done!

I've also got new lower control arms and tie rods and ball joints I'll sit on for awhile, and I got two CV joints for less than $100.

I may eventually try to get new struts and have some of that stuff put on

and I've got those 13 x 5 alloy Honda wheels ready for next summer. The old Aspire still hasn't hit 118 yet, and hoping she'll go awhile longer.
Also found some factory alloy 12 wheels for the 91 Festiva in the shed now for the winter and still getting sorted out for my old age.
thanks for the input.

[scitzz]

If the pads are low, the warning tab may snap off after making noise for a while, which means you are awfully close to metal on metal.

[nitrofarm]

Harp,if you smoked pads @ only 20K you probably have a Caliper stuck. Look at replacing your front brake hose's. But its good news that your bearings are ok