Bogging/Stuttering, 93 Festiva

[Kenkyona]

so i recently picked up my first Festiva and on the drive home i noticed some low rev hesitation that would go away if the rpms picked up. It tended to stutter if i shifted hard, and when i shift super smooth (lots of clutch slipping) there would be no stutter.

later that day i replaced:
Plugs
Wires
Rotor
Cap

Went for a drive and it was still there

Then i replaced:
Fuel filter

After running car in shop for a bit (bay doors open) i noticed it was running very rich, shop was getting smokey and eyes were slightly burning haha (not oil or coolent smoke)
Went for a drive again and it drove pretty good, there was the slightest hesitation on take off, and when off throttle if you rolled on throttle while driving it would stutter for a split second and then continue and be fine

Next day,

in hopes of curing the last bit of hesitation/stutter i replaced:
ECT

And while it was in the shop i decided to check timing (grounded black single plug), distributor was already set for max advance with timing mark on pulley way off. tried to time it to 10 degrees advance (stock) but i couldn't get it to run that way, idle would slow and would start to run like crap, bog and then die WOT.
Confused i then checked cam timing, and everything is perfect, crank and cam line up with timing marks

Checked for Vacuum leaks, can't find any obvious one (checked intake accordion)

5pm comes and its time to go home so i set timing to max advance (how it was) and now it bogs and dies if to touch the gas at that setting
end up pushing car outside so they can close the shop, while i continue to work on car so i can get home

After fooling around i noticed that unplugging my o2 sensor did nothing while running, no CEL or anything. Turned off and restarted motor with it unplugged, still nothing so i just plugged it back in, no change.

I also noticed that while off the MAF paddle doesn't hit hard stop and turn off fuel pump (not because its dirty, the spring pulls it half open), and that it has been taken apart before (silicone'd cover) so i marked the ratcheting ring inside the MAF that adjusts the spring and adjusted it so that the paddle would hit the fuel pump cut off.
Wouldn't run, starting symptoms were the exact same as if i unplugged the MAF. I then reset the MAF to how it was and just limped it home.



Now here i sit typing this out in hopes someone has an idea of whats going on

I think it could possibly be TPS because it seems to happen when there is sudden changes in throttle position, but the timing issue i have no idea

Thank you so much for reading this, any help is appreciated

[Kenkyona]

Here is a video of it bogging, this is WOT from idle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpjsKRQ334s

[monkeykiller1996]

it uses a VAF not a MAF they do the same objective but are slightly different ,try plugging off the hose sticking out the side of the intake its going to take in extra air that the computer cannot see also check your air filter



this is what is suppose to go there

[Kenkyona]

that hose is plugged, it has a aftermarket K&N adapter and filter

thank you though. made it to work today with the car, so thats good i guess. still runs like a bag of crap

[Kenkyona]

Going to take a deeper look at it in an hour, take all vacuum lines off and check everything over. will update if i find anything

[Kenkyona]

Well after 4 hours of diagnostics i am fully stumped. no codes stored, or atleast i can't read them.
runs better cold/ when on warmup mode or whatever, like even when warm if i turn it off and turn it back on it runs okay for like 30 secs then dies when you give it gas again
played around with distributor timing more, even went ahead and back a tooth.
Found a small vacuum leak, fixed that, cleaned TB
when timed to 10 degrees advanced it make popping sounds through the intake when i give it gas indicating major timing issues, although i double checked and crank and cam marks line up perfectly
Actually will rev not just pop or die when advanced to ~25 degress according to timing light.

through all this, the car idles fine, problem occurs when you give it gas

but i go to leave work so i set everything back and now car doesn't start, it cranks and fires for a second then dies and repeats that forever

Please help me!!

[Kenkyona]

The motor has been swapped for a lower KM motor about 8 years ago, 88,000 on motor right now

My crank pulley just has one mark and the guide on the side of the motor includes markings for 10 degress and TDC

[skeeters_keeper]

Check the locating pin on the cam. They are pretty easy to jack up. I've seen two that were messed up, one my fault and one on a JY engine. Pull the upper timing pulley, and make sure it and the pin look OK. If the cam got twisted a bit relative to the pulley your valve timing can be off even though the marks line up.

If that checks out ok maybe it's time to find another VAF to try switching it out with, if you think something may be wrong with yours.

[Kenkyona]

Check the locating pin on the cam. They are pretty easy to jack up. I've seen two that were messed up, one my fault and one on a JY engine. Pull the upper timing pulley, and make sure it and the pin look OK. If the cam got twisted a bit relative to the pulley your valve timing can be off even though the marks line up.

If that checks out ok maybe it's time to find another VAF to try switching it out with, if you think something may be wrong with yours.

will check on monday, thank you.

Also do you know if any other VAF's are interchangeable ?

[Cory_Thurmond]

I had this same issue with my carbed b3 i tried everything before i gave up. Let us know when you get it.

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[Meepersly]

I had a similar issue back when I had a b3. The key on the crank timing gear sheared on me once. Not sure how it happened probably because of a combination of ignition timing and valve timing.

https://goo.gl/photos/34AgbEQdsbEHRcD47

[Kenkyona]

I had a similar issue back when I had a b3. The key on the crank timing gear sheared on me once. Not sure how it happened probably because of a combination of ignition timing and valve timing.

https://goo.gl/photos/34AgbEQdsbEHRcD47

what did you do to fix it? did you just swap motor?

Its either this or the cam pin is bent, thats the only logical thing

[Meepersly]

I took the broken bits of the old key out and ground down a bolt to fit into the old hole. It worked and I was so happy. I drove it a couple hundred miles then swapped a b8-me into it engine is still good and I still have it in case I need a b3

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[Kenkyona]

I took the broken bits of the old key out and ground down a bolt to fit into the old hole. It worked and I was so happy. I drove it a couple hundred miles then swapped a b8-me into it engine is still good and I still have it in case I need a b3

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thank you, i will try to have a look at it on monday as its locked in the shop till monday

[Meepersly]

Mine would start and sputter a little then die if I gave it gas. Mine was way worse than yours but if I turned the distributor farther than it was supposed to go it would run. With a very scary knock as if it was firing too early on the compression stroke. I believe that is what was happening until I fixed it.

https://youtu.be/C8xFMjptqfk

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